‘91 E30
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Almost ready to drop the m52.
Need to remove: Fuel lines, heater core hoses & front suspension (to make it easier to manage on a jack)
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Dropping it out of the bottom Is the way to go
ABS pump is already gone, as well as all the front brake lines. Working on getting the bias adjuster mounted and remote cable ran.
quick bend of the rear line gets the angle right for the cable to run to an already existing grommet in the firewall next to the main fuse box harness
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Interior stuff is all done, remote Knob used the area for the fog lights (which Are being removed for the OEM “delete” panels)
hoping I won’t have to touch interior stuff anymore for this chapter (wideband is already routed, just not connected to anything)made a quick “bracket” for the bias adjuster out of some scrap 3/4” alum square tubing.
removed the factory heat shield for the exhaust (firewall area, still running the one in the tunnel) as it was pretty disgusting and had seen better days.
Eventually I’ll add some DEI stuff if needed. Also removed the factory sound deadening thing from the firewall/tunnel. After removing the flanged plastic nuts the stuff basically fell apart as I removed it. It was also gross. Have seen rot behind these before on other cars, but luckily this car has never seen winter. Removed all the studs with an angle grinder as well.
should have a lot more room to access trans stuff now if I need to.next up is to finish making hardlines to go from master to bias valve and master to front brakes. Once that’s done I can start on the engine stuff
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Master to bias line done for rear brakes
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Drivers side front brake line good to go, passenger line will be the longest run from the T
might even be able to use the stock brake line metal clip things with a little finesse
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Hardlines are finished
Next up is s52 stuff I think
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Hardlines are finished
Next up is s52 stuff I think
This done yet?
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This done yet?
Lol
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Solid lifter conversion is about 99.9% done. Cams were in and out a bunch while setting lash.
this kit uses the stock lifter/hydraulic adjuster, but the hydraulic adjuster is basically gutted and you use shims that are .010” and .008” thicknessstock adjuster removed from lifter
dropping in shims
and back in the trays
still using the stock s52 cams for now
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So happy you finished this. What's next? Putting everything else on?
Timing chains/timing cover/time it/oil pan/gaskets etc etc etc
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Ended up pulling the intake side to reshim 2 lifters, all back together & timed now
FCP order showing up soonish for some stuff that I either misplaced or never ordered.
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Popped the front main in, installed the damper (still need to torque that, which basically means set the impact to max and send it home) engine is on the subframe now, m20 FW on with arp hardware, new spec clutch/pressure plate,TOB/PB, clutch pivot pin with grease fitting, trans put on, new control arms, bushings, etc etc
@Rekpointis stopping by to help toss this thing in
side note, this hikfab plate has probably saved me from purchasing around 70 oil pans
it did pick up a slight bend, but I’m going to toss it in the press to see if I can’t straighten it back out a bit
also, say no to brass pivot pins lol. This maybe had like 4k miles on it - was previously running a south bend stg3 street clutch/pp
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Popped the front main in, installed the damper (still need to torque that, which basically means set the impact to max and send it home) engine is on the subframe now, m20 FW on with arp hardware, new spec clutch/pressure plate,TOB/PB, clutch pivot pin with grease fitting, trans put on, new control arms, bushings, etc etc
@Rekpointis stopping by to help toss this thing in
side note, this hikfab plate has probably saved me from purchasing around 70 oil pans
it did pick up a slight bend, but I’m going to toss it in the press to see if I can’t straighten it back out a bit
also, say no to brass pivot pins lol. This maybe had like 4k miles on it - was previously running a south bend stg3 street clutch/pp
What’s the one on the left made out of? Is that a grease zerk that I see on it?
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What’s the one on the left made out of? Is that a grease zerk that I see on it?
It is stainless steel, that is a grease zerk
https://leogranderacing.com/products/greasable-stainless-steel-clutch-fork-pivot-pin
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@Rekpoint stopped by and we got to work. Instead of just blasting away at the crank bolt with an impact I figured I’d pick up a torque wrench that went to 300ftlbs - still needed a way to hold the crank as I don’t have that tool.
the Amish-Inspired crank hub holder was born.
in case it isn’t obvious I don’t own a hole saw. Drilled out what I could with a step bit and went after the rest with a die grinder lol
Glen was the leverage and this stupid thing worked lol. Right around the last bit of torque, the end started to split but we made it to 300ft lbs lol
Once that was torqued we made pretty quick work of it, still a fan of lifting the engine/trans/y pipe into the car all together vs using a hoist
all jacked up and bolted in
intake isn’t bolted up yet, just wanted to make sure the 45° bend pipe was going to work for the intake - won’t be running a maf with MS3next up is to make the car a roller again and get it down on the ground so I can get the harness in and connected as well as coolant hoses/radiator/etc etc
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Car is on the ground after like 14 months on jackstands lol - slapped the driveshaft/exhaust/heat shields back in, got the front suspension in and torqued. Bled the brakes/clutch and thankfully had no leaks after I remade all the lines when I ditched the abs. Shouldnt reeeeaally need to get back under the car anymore other than to hook up the wideband
the press was able to straighten out the bend in the skid plate pretty easily
Tomorrow going to start on the wiring in the engine bay/wideband/possibly IAT sensor.
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This is where I stopped over the weekend. Heater core/expansion tank lines are in. Most of the wiring harness is in.
since I’m going with MS3, I don’t need to use the factory O2, MAF, or IAT wiring- I still left them in the harness just in case, but tucked them out of the way.
wideband O2 is routed, just needs to be wired. IAT wiring is most likely next up
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