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‘91 E30

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • KaiserRollsK
    KaiserRollsK
    KaiserRolls
    wrote on last edited by
    #447

    Master to bias line done for rear brakes 

    DE2964CA-EB51-44C4-A575-253FE83162AB.jpeg

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • KaiserRollsK
      KaiserRollsK
      KaiserRolls
      wrote on last edited by
      #448

      Drivers side front brake line good to go, passenger line will be the longest run from the T4257271A-960E-4843-A92A-BE18AC89FA3F.jpeg

      might even be able to use the stock brake line metal clip things with a little finesse 

      559EA5DD-EBC6-45F5-AB9A-1156802811D9.jpeg

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      • KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRolls
        wrote on last edited by
        #449

        Hardlines are finished 

        18506FA7-9441-4B0D-AB99-E64F35DD620F.jpeg

        50CF6BDB-3E14-4A92-8EB4-5F7E77266ACB.jpeg

        Next up is s52 stuff I think

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        • RekpointR
          RekpointR
          Rekpoint
          wrote on last edited by
          #450

          KaiserRolls said:

          Hardlines are finished 

          18506FA7-9441-4B0D-AB99-E64F35DD620F.jpeg

          50CF6BDB-3E14-4A92-8EB4-5F7E77266ACB.jpeg

          Next up is s52 stuff I think

          This done yet?

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • KaiserRollsK
            KaiserRollsK
            KaiserRolls
            wrote on last edited by
            #451

            Rekpoint said:

            This done yet? 

            Lol

            1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • KaiserRollsK
              KaiserRollsK
              KaiserRolls
              wrote on last edited by
              #452

              Solid lifter conversion is about 99.9% done. Cams were in and out a bunch while setting lash. 
              this kit uses the stock lifter/hydraulic adjuster, but the hydraulic adjuster is basically gutted and you use shims that are .010” and .008” thickness

              stock adjuster removed from lifter 

              F1AFCC4B-1937-4E49-8927-871190712599.jpeg
               

              dropping in shims

              D140D928-F23E-4C69-BF07-3B40C6DFF58D.jpeg

              25195E9A-EA63-43DB-9A1F-0BEAC042AB5C.jpeg

              and back in the trays 

              F76D90B5-FD58-4BA0-8F5E-DDFEBC4DD986.jpeg

              still using the stock s52 cams for now

              1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • RekpointR
                RekpointR
                Rekpoint
                wrote on last edited by
                #453

                So happy you finished this. What's next? Putting everything else on?

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                0
                • KaiserRollsK
                  KaiserRollsK
                  KaiserRolls
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #454

                  Rekpoint said:

                  So happy you finished this. What's next? Putting everything else on?

                  Timing chains/timing cover/time it/oil pan/gaskets etc etc etc

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                  • KaiserRollsK
                    KaiserRollsK
                    KaiserRolls
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #455

                    Ended up pulling the intake side to reshim 2 lifters, all back together & timed now

                    FCP order showing up soonish for some stuff that I either misplaced or never ordered. 

                    E32BEA29-2E22-48CB-8275-942FFD153B9E.jpeg

                    2A6C8D3F-DF41-4C07-B0AB-2F552C4844A2.jpeg

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                    • YoungCRY
                      YoungCRY
                      YoungCR
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #456

                      Looks fantastic, nice work!

                      Chris Young
                      BMWCCA #458972
                      1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRolls
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #457

                        Popped the front main in, installed the damper (still need to torque that, which basically means set the impact to max and send it home) engine is on the subframe now, m20 FW on with arp hardware, new spec clutch/pressure plate,TOB/PB, clutch pivot pin with grease fitting, trans put on, new control arms, bushings, etc etc 5140E845-79D0-4F4C-BFAF-788F1333C95E.jpeg6D479B9A-1D20-4217-ACCB-7D1CF0DB2B7D.jpeg8AA47068-9D58-4C26-A9DB-E549EFB872E0.jpeg

                        @Rekpointis stopping by to help toss this thing in 

                        side note, this hikfab plate has probably saved me from purchasing around 70 oil pans AEBC33A5-FF37-4BBF-AD77-EDB729CAD296.jpeg5B950114-3B06-4BFD-BBB5-F83490AF8E2E.jpeg

                        it did pick up a slight bend, but I’m going to toss it in the press to see if I can’t straighten it back out a bit 

                        87A67F02-B735-4333-8C64-272DB2B32262.jpeg
                         

                        also, say no to brass pivot pins lol. This maybe had like 4k miles on it - was previously running a south bend stg3 street clutch/pp

                        94413380-E71F-437C-B76C-4258B3B35E9C.jpeg

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • P_RoloffP
                          P_RoloffP
                          P_Roloff
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #458

                          KaiserRolls said:

                          Popped the front main in, installed the damper (still need to torque that, which basically means set the impact to max and send it home) engine is on the subframe now, m20 FW on with arp hardware, new spec clutch/pressure plate,TOB/PB, clutch pivot pin with grease fitting, trans put on, new control arms, bushings, etc etc 5140E845-79D0-4F4C-BFAF-788F1333C95E.jpeg6D479B9A-1D20-4217-ACCB-7D1CF0DB2B7D.jpeg8AA47068-9D58-4C26-A9DB-E549EFB872E0.jpeg

                          @Rekpointis stopping by to help toss this thing in 

                          side note, this hikfab plate has probably saved me from purchasing around 70 oil pans AEBC33A5-FF37-4BBF-AD77-EDB729CAD296.jpeg5B950114-3B06-4BFD-BBB5-F83490AF8E2E.jpeg

                          it did pick up a slight bend, but I’m going to toss it in the press to see if I can’t straighten it back out a bit 

                          87A67F02-B735-4333-8C64-272DB2B32262.jpeg
                           

                          also, say no to brass pivot pins lol. This maybe had like 4k miles on it - was previously running a south bend stg3 street clutch/pp

                          94413380-E71F-437C-B76C-4258B3B35E9C.jpeg

                          What’s the one on the left made out of? Is that a grease zerk that I see on it?

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                          0
                          • KaiserRollsK
                            KaiserRollsK
                            KaiserRolls
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #459

                            P_Roloff said:

                            What’s the one on the left made out of? Is that a grease zerk that I see on it?

                            It is stainless steel, that is a grease zerk

                            https://leogranderacing.com/products/greasable-stainless-steel-clutch-fork-pivot-pin

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            3
                            • KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRolls
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #460

                              @Rekpoint stopped by and we got to work. Instead of just blasting away at the crank bolt with an impact I figured I’d pick up a torque wrench that went to 300ftlbs - still needed a way to hold the crank as I don’t have that tool. 
                               

                              the Amish-Inspired crank hub holder was born. 6D84B267-3010-474C-A715-F619EDFDCD9B.jpeg7012744B-21B7-4566-BF56-DEE0A008A8C5.jpeg

                              in case it isn’t obvious I don’t own a hole saw. Drilled out what I could with a step bit and went after the rest with a die grinder lol

                              Glen was the leverage and this stupid thing worked lol. Right around the last bit of torque, the end started to split but we made it to 300ft lbs lol

                              38A4036A-5B7C-4F67-A328-8E945D45A129.jpeg

                              03981103-F8E6-4837-ADB7-D8F2602AF258.jpeg

                              Once that was torqued we made pretty quick work of it, still a fan of lifting the engine/trans/y pipe into the car all together vs using a hoist 
                              4F290C1A-07E5-43B7-B2C6-CE73E63100E3.jpeg47EBE7AA-1CDE-4C8B-A1EE-1802E056A4C3.jpeg
                               

                              all jacked up and bolted in

                              F50365BF-2D9B-46E2-A705-40EB2B130304.jpeg
                              intake isn’t bolted up yet, just wanted to make sure the 45° bend pipe was going to work for the intake - won’t be running a maf with MS3 

                              next up is to make the car a roller again and get it down on the ground so I can get the harness in and connected as well as coolant hoses/radiator/etc etc

                              1 Reply Last reply
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                              • RekpointR
                                RekpointR
                                Rekpoint
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #461

                                Literally took 15 mins to get the engine from outside and bolted up inside. Extremely fast!

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                1
                                • KaiserRollsK
                                  KaiserRollsK
                                  KaiserRolls
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #462

                                  Car is on the ground after like 14 months on jackstands lol - slapped the driveshaft/exhaust/heat shields back in, got the front suspension in and torqued. Bled the brakes/clutch and thankfully had no leaks after I remade all the lines when I ditched the abs. Shouldnt reeeeaally need to get back under the car anymore other than to hook up the wideband 
                                   

                                  the press was able to straighten out the bend in the skid plate pretty easily 

                                  4DE627DA-00AD-444B-841A-F2CD662EA970.jpeg

                                  Tomorrow going to start on the wiring in the engine bay/wideband/possibly IAT sensor.

                                   
                                  09F8C461-F69D-4A49-AAEB-4083094155FF.jpeg

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                                  • KaiserRollsK
                                    KaiserRollsK
                                    KaiserRolls
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #463

                                    This is where I stopped over the weekend. Heater core/expansion tank lines are in. Most of the wiring harness is in. 
                                    since I’m going with MS3, I don’t need to use the factory O2, MAF, or IAT wiring- I still left them in the harness just in case, but tucked them out of the way. 
                                    wideband O2 is routed, just needs to be wired. IAT wiring is most likely next up

                                    8E0DC7AE-3F46-42AE-B8A5-F58C9FF0E4E2.jpeg

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                                    4
                                    • KaiserRollsK
                                      KaiserRollsK
                                      KaiserRolls
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #464

                                      Wiring in the engine bay is done now, IAT wiring shares the same loom with my VDO gauge wiring & obviously the wideband is it’s own thing. Both have been grounded 
                                      The only wiring left is to add the MS3 pigtail to the wideband analog output(yellow) and the MS3 Pigtail to the IAT wire(brown), both of which meet up in the glovebox. Vac source for the MS3 is waiting in the glovebox as well. 
                                      46AD4B18-30A5-44AB-83A1-80DA97603F61.jpeg

                                      I still need to bolt down the intake manifold, cut fuel lines to proper length, trim vac line for the FPR, install fuel rail, injectors, injector harness, throttle body, intake. 
                                      will need to add oil, PS fluid & coolant eventually.

                                      21D8E430-91F2-4A09-A062-E537DFBFE6C5.jpeg
                                       
                                      coolant will most likely be the last thing as I need to verify base timing with MS3 and it’s way easier to do that without a radiator in the way. 
                                      intake tube also needs a bung welded to it for the sensor. 
                                      Catch can location TBD

                                      eventually once the intake/air filter are in their final spot I want to build an ‘air box’ of sorts or just a heat shield for the filter. Bought some 3D printed brake duct adapters that will be feeding the air filter area with air that isn’t coming directly off the hot radiator E2D221F9-81A2-4473-A4A0-5B084A9723CA.jpeg39DB4523-2642-409C-BF70-D5FD81C37DD6.jpeg

                                      still need to trim that hose a bunch, just tossed it in to see if it could make the right bends 

                                      might work on it a bit more tonight to get some more engine bay stuff wrapped up, would be fun to attempt a start this weekend

                                      I’m using an OBD2 valve cover with OBD1 harness. I hate painting, so plastic it is. also using the m52 oil filter housing instead of the metal lid s52 OFH - mainly because when I was running the m52 I bought a brand new PS pump for it & the OFHs are slightly different with pump mounting. 

                                      E569E143-02FD-45A5-88AE-047EA28EE0BD.jpeg

                                      Mirrors still folded in as it’s still in storage lol

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                                      2
                                      • GunMetalGreyG
                                        GunMetalGreyG
                                        GunMetalGrey
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #465

                                        I am both amused and amazed at the 2x4 crank holder

                                        Bravo sir

                                        I am impressed it held up to that (once)

                                        Engine bay is looking quite clean! I look forward to seeing videos of non lifter tick auto-x runs!

                                        ...

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • B
                                          B
                                          Boris3
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #466

                                          Nice work!

                                          I also noticed the Quickjack (?) in the latest picture. Experience with it so far?

                                          1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          1

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