Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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Wired in a plug for the gauge senders so the engine and body harness can be two separate things.
Took out the front my suspension and gave it the Por15 treatment. I have new bearings and strut mounts for that. And once that’s back in the fenders can go back on. I’m very excited about that.
Picked up this little tool cart from Amazon for $30 Prime. Outfitted it with a bottle opener and can holder. Helps keep me organized rather than spreading tools all over the floor.
And my belt driven compressor is for sale if anyone is interested. Great for light projects but it wasn’t as strong as I wanted it when I was running an impact. Got the Sanborn for a good deal and it’s more powerful. Although now that I realized I can wire in a 220 outlet, this one may go as well.
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that cart seems pretty solid, $30 seems like a steal.
Dan
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that cart seems pretty solid, $30 seems like a steal.
It's great for $30.
I know the top of the strut mounts get a dust cap, but is there anything for the bottoms? They're just exposed like this?
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@P_Roloff is correct
check this video: at 4:10 he removes the top mount which someone failed to put the washer/dust cap under. you can see how gross the bearing is and at 4:20 you can see how badly the bottom of the bearing chewed grooves into the top spring plate. at 17:35 you can see him correctly installing the washer/dust cap on reassembly.
Dan
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I was hoping to reinstall everything tomorrow, but I guess I will need to hold off to order those. Oh well.
another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.
Dan
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another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.
Good idea. The bearings did look underpacked with grease.
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another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.
Also, keep in mind if you mix types of grease it can cause chemical reactions that will potentially cause premature wear! Sounds dumb, but I worked in a bike shop for 10+ years, and I have personally witnessed countless times that mixed types of grease caused chemical reactions that ate through bearings, bearing races, and softer material components such as plastics and urethanes. I always thoroughly clean parts before I re-grease or add grease to them if I don't know the type of grease that was originally installed.
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/greasy-situation-can-you-mix-grease/
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Reinstalling the struts and everything and j realized the threads on the outer ball joint for the DS control arm are cross threaded. The control arm assemblies are relatively cheap, but I can’t find a great how-to for removing the lollipop without the assumption that you’re going to be replacing the bushing. Any pointers?
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Reinstalling the struts and everything and j realized the threads on the outer ball joint for the DS control arm are cross threaded. The control arm assemblies are relatively cheap, but I can’t find a great how-to for removing the lollipop without the assumption that you’re going to be replacing the bushing. Any pointers?
i was able to pull those will a 3 jaw puller. i had to drill a hole in the center of the control arm 'post' to keep the puller from walking off of it, and i had to band clamp the arms of the 3 jaw to keep them from walking off the lollipop, since it is offcenter. i think i may have setup the 3 jaw with different length arms to help with the offcentering, as well. one of the two was very stuck and i was afraid i was going to tear it, so i had to hammer a pick between the control arm 'post' and the bushing to break the seal (which damaged it) so your results may vary.
alternatively, if you know a shop with the correct tools, you could order just that outer ball joint and have them press it in and leave the CAB alone.
Dan
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alternatively, if you know a shop with the correct tools, you could order just that outer ball joint and have them press it in and leave the CAB alone.
From what I can find, these are just pressed it, right? There’s nothing special about them. A shop with a basic press should be able to do it.
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From what I can find, these are just pressed it, right? There’s nothing special about them. A shop with a basic press should be able to do it.
yes!
Dan
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yes!
Thank you for the info! I have it with me today to see what a shop would want for it and to make sure they can do it.
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Both ball joint threads ended up being trash so it has new outer ball joints. Most other stuff done isn’t really noticeable - brake line to the rear is in, control arms back in, interior back together for the most part.
Both front abs sensor harnesses were pretty cracked up and falling apart so I fixed those.
And then I started playing with the sander tonight to get the hang of it. Not really sure what I was expecting from it, but using it was very comfortable and I’m excited to move on to the next phase of the project.
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That’s the plan. Really no going back now that I’ve messed up the fender and door. I’m going to go around first and sand down the small dents so I can add a little filler to smooth them out. But up next I will be removing trim from the car, mirrors, taping off some edges, and masking off the engine bay to keep the dust out of it.
The new compressor setup did a pretty good job keeping up. I won't be able to sand non-stop, but it seemed that it would keep up while taking normal breaks - i.e. readjusting, changing sandpaper, moving to a new spot.
I'm doing this late at night, so I'm not sure how loud it is outside my garage. With it being fully insulated, I assume the sound is carrying to intensely to the neighbors' house with the outside ambient sound. At the same time, this is payback for my neighbor's stupid diesel super-duty the he parks in his backyard right next to our house that he needs to let idle for 17 hours before he drives it anywhere.
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Extra bonus points if you put a rubber grommet in each of the ABS wire brackets to secure the wire and prevent rubbing through the heatshrink.
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