Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

[Jdesign]

That honestly just looks like condensation in the oil, but that could be the reflections too. Just run a really nice filter.

[KaiserRolls]

Jdesign said:

That honestly just looks like condensation in the oil, but that could be the reflections too. Just run a really nice filter.

Maybe remnants of assembly lube

[gilber33]

Feels like I got way more done than I really did. Wiring is so time consuming. 
 

New pressure switch with the factory plug removed for a universal two plug connector. Also, never knew that non insulated crimp connected was a thing. 

Aux fan temp switch plug spliced in since the other one had rotted apart. The wire gauge difference between the e30 and e36 is impressive  

The old r12 high pressure sensor grounded to itself. 

Got the gauge sender units all in. 

 

And lastly, took the oil filter apart. Looks pretty good to me. 
 

[straight6pwr]

smart ideas on those non-insulated crimps since you're just gonna tape over them anyways. 

you should try the heat shrink adhesive filled ones. life changers. even if you fubar the crimp they dont come apart, and there is no need for tape or shrink wrap after.

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

smart ideas on those non-insulated crimps since you're just gonna tape over them anyways. 

you should try the heat shrink adhesive filled ones. life changers. even if you fubar the crimp they dont come apart, and there is no need for tape or shrink wrap after.

Ugh. I was going to get some of the adhesive ones from Amazon but had a role of some heat shrink left over. I still used heat shrink on all of the crimps and the tape I'm using is more for a wire loom and cleanliness.

[The Full Banana]

Psh, non-insulated crimps with high-quality adhesive lined heat shrink over the crimps is the way to go. Insulated connectors are for the birds. Nice work, Gabe! Looks great.

Raychem heatshrink 4 lyfe

OEM++

[straight6pwr]

The Full Banana said:

Psh, non-insulated crimps with high-quality adhesive lined heat shrink over the crimps is the way to go. Insulated connectors are for the birds. Nice work, Gabe! Looks great.

Raychem heatshrink 4 lyfe

OEM++

i'd agree except:

[HipMF]

straight6pwr said:

i'd agree except:

Flagged.

[gilber33]

Wired in a plug for the gauge senders so the engine and body harness can be two separate things. 

Took out the front my suspension and gave it the Por15 treatment. I have new bearings and strut mounts for that. And once that’s back in the fenders can go back on. I’m very excited about that. 
 

Picked up this little tool cart from Amazon for $30 Prime. Outfitted it with a bottle opener and can holder. Helps keep me organized rather than spreading tools all over the floor. 
 

And my belt driven compressor is for sale if anyone is interested. Great for light projects but it wasn’t as strong as I wanted it when I was running an impact. Got the Sanborn for a good deal and it’s more powerful. Although now that I realized I can wire in a 220 outlet, this one may go as well. 
 

[straight6pwr]

that cart seems pretty solid, $30 seems like a steal.

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

that cart seems pretty solid, $30 seems like a steal.

It's great for $30. 

I know the top of the strut mounts get a dust cap, but is there anything for the bottoms? They're just exposed like this? 

[P_Roloff]

It would appear that there is a dust cover of sorts and then a washer on the underside according to this diagram.

[gilber33]

Thank you! When I removed them from the car they had the washer, but they did not have the dust cover.

[straight6pwr]

@P_Roloff is correct

check this video: at 4:10 he removes the top mount which someone failed to put the washer/dust cap under. you can see how gross the bearing is and at 4:20 you can see how badly the bottom of the bearing chewed grooves into the top spring plate. at 17:35 you can see him correctly installing the washer/dust cap on reassembly.

[gilber33]

I was hoping to reinstall everything tomorrow, but I guess I will need to hold off to order those. Oh well.

[straight6pwr]

gilber33 said:

I was hoping to reinstall everything tomorrow, but I guess I will need to hold off to order those. Oh well. 

another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.

Good idea. The bearings did look underpacked with grease.

[Jdesign]

straight6pwr said:

another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.

Also, keep in mind if you mix types of grease it can cause chemical reactions that will potentially cause premature wear! Sounds dumb, but I worked in a bike shop for 10+ years, and I have personally witnessed countless times that mixed types of grease caused chemical reactions that ate through bearings, bearing races, and softer material components such as plastics and urethanes. I always thoroughly clean parts before I re-grease or add grease to them if I don't know the type of grease that was originally installed.  

http://knowhow.napaonline.com/greasy-situation-can-you-mix-grease/

[gilber33]

Reinstalling the struts and everything and j realized the threads on the outer ball joint for the DS control arm are cross threaded. The control arm assemblies are relatively cheap, but I can’t find a great how-to for removing the lollipop without the assumption that you’re going to be replacing the bushing. Any pointers? 
 

[straight6pwr]

gilber33 said:

Reinstalling the struts and everything and j realized the threads on the outer ball joint for the DS control arm are cross threaded. The control arm assemblies are relatively cheap, but I can’t find a great how-to for removing the lollipop without the assumption that you’re going to be replacing the bushing. Any pointers? 
 

i was able to pull those will a 3 jaw puller. i had to drill a hole in the center of the control arm 'post' to keep the puller from walking off of it, and i had to band clamp the arms of the 3 jaw to keep them from walking off the lollipop, since it is offcenter. i think i may have setup the 3 jaw with different length arms to help with the offcentering, as well. one of the two was very stuck and i was afraid i was going to tear it, so i had to hammer a pick between the control arm 'post' and the bushing to break the seal (which damaged it) so your results may vary.

alternatively, if you know a shop with the correct tools, you could order just that outer ball joint and have them press it in and leave the CAB alone.