My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)
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I managed to get nothing done yesterday. I was figuring out how to mount the top of the bag but couldn't find the right tools/bits to use. A package came however:
My airline also arrived today. I'll mount the bags Saturday as well as install the studs and hopefully a bunch more.
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I managed to get nothing doneĀ
this is how I feel everyday after I punch out.
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I am very pleased with the outcome of Saturday=)
I finally got the top of my bags mounted. The first side took two hours....the second side only took about 30-45 minutes. Here is what I did (before paint of course)
There is one bolt up top and then a notch underneath for the fitting to sit in. The pockets were the biggest pain to get. The first one took so long because I was trying to use a countersink bit and other drill bits. Then I realized I had air tools that would make it a whole lot easier=)
Once that was finally out of the way, I bolted up my sway bar and bolted the bottom of the mustang shocks to the trailing arms. Everything went super smooth there.
I then installed my 68mm Motorsport Hardware studs. I am super happy with the quality of them. Installation was a breeze and I highly recommend them to anyone who wants to go studs versus lug bolts. The price tag for these is basically just giving them away=D
I also painted the hats of my rear rotors during this time, but did not take a picture. I will be getting new rotors this winter, so this is just to make them look less shitty until then.
After all of this I cut air line for the bags, pushed on some valve stem fittings, and manually aired up the bags. I put the rear wheels on and put it back on all fours for the first time since February. I then aired it out.
I was being goofy. I actually have to do way less fender work than I had initially thought. That's fine by me=) I just need to get the fenders over the tire, but let the lip still poke. Right now it is literally sitting on the tire. Here are a few more of the wheels and being aired out on the Breytons.
I am finally seeing things come together and it is awesome=) The studs poke a tiny bit much for me, but they were the shortest I could get being black and bullet nosed. I think they will still keep the clean and subtle look without being too aggressive.
On a side note, my friend Kerry has been working on my rear bumper and I cannot thank him enough. I wanted the exhaust cutout shaved so I can have the exhaust hidden underneath. I am not a huge fan of DTM tips and this was the cleanest option I could come up with. I also don't really like the M-Tech rear bumper so I figured I would make the OEM one better.
He did such an excellent job. He used no bondo and uses only the finest plastic repair kits. Bravo Kerry=)
More to come Wednesday. Maybe I will take a funny picture of how the rear is sitting right now aired out on stock wheels.
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Looking good, and roll those fenders so you can tuck, and have this thing lay body!
Not a huge fan of tuck. Also, I have the car sitting at the shop aired out on stock 15's and it is about 2"-3" away from laying frame. That is with nothing holding it up besides the bag being fully deflated. You would have to do a ton of fab work (customĀ trailing arms, modified upper mount, ect.)Ā to get it to lay frame in the back. I'll take a picture of it Wednesday=)
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dang Earl, nice work!
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Got something done I've been meaning too.
I finally got the hole cut properly to route my headlight harness back out of. Glad I had the right tools this time=) I also got the harness pulled through.
I also wrestled with the crank bolt for about an hour and still havent gotten it off. I figured the only way to lock it from turning is a wood block in between the crank and block. I didn't want to wrench too hard because I don't need a cracked block. I tried head. a deadblow, a 3 foot cheater bar and still it wouldn't budge.
How are you supposed to get this sucker off when the engine is on a stand? There has to be something I'm overlooking. I've tried a nice large electric impact and that did absolutely nothing besides make noise.
For those who were curious, here is a shot aired out on the 15's. This is with the bags fully compressed. To get lower would require pocketing the arms and frame. I won't be anywhere near this low so no worries for me=)
Also if you haven't noticed, the all reds are back on. I need to reclear the top of the drivers side and then I need to lay into them with a buffer to get them nice and shiny.
More to come Saturday
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Your supposed to get the nut off with the engine in the car ... I made the same mistake. You need to hold the crank from moving and apply a lot of leverage and heat. I could not believe how tight the one on my car was. We had over a 4 foot bar and we were hanging off of it. I think the heat finally did the trick.
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Well I was lucky enough to borrow the bmw tool and was able to wedge it against a steel cabinet. Then I heated the nut up for about 2 beers and laid on top of the engine while a 200 lb person hung off the cheater bar ... the noise it made was amazing...
If you have the flywheel on you can hold the crank from turning there but I am sure you don't have that on anymore ...
You need to build / buy one of theseĀ
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Well I was lucky enough to borrow the bmw tool and was able to wedge it against a steel cabinet. Then I heated the nut up for about 2 beers and laid on top of the engine while a 200 lb person hung off the cheater bar ... the noise it made was amazing...
If you have the flywheel on you can hold the crank from turning there but I am sure you don't have that on anymore ...
You need to build / buy one of theseĀ
Now to find someone to borrow one of these suckers from. No one comes to mind though unfortunately=( This is truly frustrating.
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