Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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Some more carnage pics. The hole on the nut doesn't go all the way through.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I am no expert,
but, my theory is the nut backed off due to heat reducing the effectiveness of the spring washer, as well as the other factors inherent to the oil pump design that cause the nut to back off. From the dark spot with some faint chevron marks, I would believe it to be a bending fatigue failure and due to the ratchet marks around the outer diameter, it looks like the nut gradually lost tension (because of the spring washer getting weaker etc) and the shaft failed over time, could have been weeks, could have been hours, but the cause of the shaft failing wasnt sudden and catastrophic as if it was too brittle or hit with too much torque.
My point being that I personally would not hesitate to replace it with a regular OE oil pump+shaft as long as something is done to prevent the nut from backing off.
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I am no expert,
but, my theory is the nut backed off due to heat reducing the effectiveness of the spring washer, as well as the other factors inherent to the oil pump design that cause the nut to back off. From the dark spot with some faint chevron marks, I would believe it to be a bending fatigue failure and due to the ratchet marks around the outer diameter, it looks like the nut gradually lost tension (because of the spring washer getting weaker etc) and the shaft failed over time, could have been weeks, could have been hours, but the cause of the shaft failing wasnt sudden and catastrophic as if it was too brittle or hit with too much torque.
My point being that I personally would not hesitate to replace it with a regular OE oil pump+shaft as long as something is done to prevent the nut from backing off.
Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?
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Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?
no, but im sure my bed is just as uncomfortable.
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No dice on the GSR pump.
I think I will get a replacement for the pump I already have and weld that nut.
With the savings I will more than likely get the harmonic dampener to try to calm down that engine and prevent anything else from rattling/snapping loose.
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@DrLeadFoot
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If you ain't breakin' parts, you ain't makin' nuff powa!
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If you ain't mixin' gas, you ain't hauling ass.
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You should see my weed whacker whack weeds.
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#6 bottom rod bearing. Looks good to me!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Talk about a bearing relief
hawhawhawhaw
Gonna get 100% confirmation from my machinist right now.
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@DrLeadFoot
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http://www.achillesmotorsports.com/Achilles-Motorsports-Upgraded-Oil-Pump-New-BMW-M-p/11-am-uopn.htm
I just ordered this along with their oil pan baffle.
I also bought a new Jesus bolt and washer to go with it. While I was turning over the motor to pull the #6 rod bearing I noticed the bolt loosening while the crank was staying in the same place. I'm glad I found this before it broke again.
@DrLeadFoot
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I'm also going to check all of my rod bearings for wear. Boris with the 8 second independent rear suspension e30 talked me into it.
He said the ARP bolts need to be torqued to 43ft/lbs with the ARP torque lube. That's better than doing the 25ft/lbs then turned an additional 55 degrees that K1 told me to do.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I have mine torqued up around 70 ft-lb per VAC Motorsports' instructions. They appear to be for both 12v and 24v engines. I can scan them if you would like.
p
Yes please.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I also bought a new Jesus bolt and washer to go with it. .
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Did you call ARP yet? I hope you did. I went out of my way to give you their number
I will today as well as pick up my parts from Concours.
It's been a little nuts these past 72 hours with work.
more info to come later.Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
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Oil pan gasket.
Jesus bolt and his ring.
More parts to come!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Parts have arrived!
I'm going get new ARP rod bolts and mic them before install so if I need to pull them again I can be 100% sure if I can reuse them or not.
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@DrLeadFoot
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