Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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I mentioned the safety wire because the nut looks like a drilled one.
The base of the thread looks knurled too. That lock washer looks out of place.
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This might be in my future.
http://store.vacmotorsports.com/harmonic-damper-bmw-m50-m52-m54--s50-us-s52-us-p756.aspx#
Not something really needed with your set up but again once you are ready let me know. As usual I get these cheaper then VAC (aka vac overcharges on a lot of things)
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@DrLeadFoot
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There should be no lock washer between the nut and the gear, and your pump nut has most certainly been drilled.
Did you build this part of the engine or did the shop?
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I didn't build it and the shop "doesn't recall" what they did with the nut.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Something is out of place with how that was done. Breaking shafts is no good no matter how you slice it!
Pun intended
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Some more carnage pics. The hole on the nut doesn't go all the way through.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I am no expert,
but, my theory is the nut backed off due to heat reducing the effectiveness of the spring washer, as well as the other factors inherent to the oil pump design that cause the nut to back off. From the dark spot with some faint chevron marks, I would believe it to be a bending fatigue failure and due to the ratchet marks around the outer diameter, it looks like the nut gradually lost tension (because of the spring washer getting weaker etc) and the shaft failed over time, could have been weeks, could have been hours, but the cause of the shaft failing wasnt sudden and catastrophic as if it was too brittle or hit with too much torque.
My point being that I personally would not hesitate to replace it with a regular OE oil pump+shaft as long as something is done to prevent the nut from backing off.
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I am no expert,
but, my theory is the nut backed off due to heat reducing the effectiveness of the spring washer, as well as the other factors inherent to the oil pump design that cause the nut to back off. From the dark spot with some faint chevron marks, I would believe it to be a bending fatigue failure and due to the ratchet marks around the outer diameter, it looks like the nut gradually lost tension (because of the spring washer getting weaker etc) and the shaft failed over time, could have been weeks, could have been hours, but the cause of the shaft failing wasnt sudden and catastrophic as if it was too brittle or hit with too much torque.
My point being that I personally would not hesitate to replace it with a regular OE oil pump+shaft as long as something is done to prevent the nut from backing off.
Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?
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Did you stay at a Holiday Inn last night?
no, but im sure my bed is just as uncomfortable.
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No dice on the GSR pump.
I think I will get a replacement for the pump I already have and weld that nut.
With the savings I will more than likely get the harmonic dampener to try to calm down that engine and prevent anything else from rattling/snapping loose.
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@DrLeadFoot
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If you ain't breakin' parts, you ain't makin' nuff powa!
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If you ain't mixin' gas, you ain't hauling ass.
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You should see my weed whacker whack weeds.
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#6 bottom rod bearing. Looks good to me!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Talk about a bearing relief
hawhawhawhaw
Gonna get 100% confirmation from my machinist right now.
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@DrLeadFoot
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http://www.achillesmotorsports.com/Achilles-Motorsports-Upgraded-Oil-Pump-New-BMW-M-p/11-am-uopn.htm
I just ordered this along with their oil pan baffle.
I also bought a new Jesus bolt and washer to go with it. While I was turning over the motor to pull the #6 rod bearing I noticed the bolt loosening while the crank was staying in the same place. I'm glad I found this before it broke again.
@DrLeadFoot
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I'm also going to check all of my rod bearings for wear. Boris with the 8 second independent rear suspension e30 talked me into it.
He said the ARP bolts need to be torqued to 43ft/lbs with the ARP torque lube. That's better than doing the 25ft/lbs then turned an additional 55 degrees that K1 told me to do.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I have mine torqued up around 70 ft-lb per VAC Motorsports' instructions. They appear to be for both 12v and 24v engines. I can scan them if you would like.
p
Yes please.
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@DrLeadFoot
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