ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

[ClassE]

I don't have a pickle fork to remove the ball joint and tie rod ends - any other way to get them out of the lower strut housing/hub?

Got everything disconnected and unbolted up front - just need to separate ends and pull front suspension! Tomorrow night will hopefully be dropping the rear subframe!

[jc43089]

Oreilly's rents out pickle forks and ball joint removers for free.  Just pay for it when you get it and get the full amount back when you return it.  That's about the only way to get them out.

[wasnt m3]

Pickle forks damage the ball joint boots very easily. Hit the ear on the hub that the ball joint goes through from the side with a BFH, should pop out.

[jc43089]

^ This, only use a pickle fork if you are not planning to reuse the joints.

[ClassE]

I called it a night at that point last night. I'll have a go at it again tonight after work.

It's odd pulling this apart after working on VWs for so long - similar of course but not knowing the nut sizes off the top of my head and trying to "learn the car" makes it a slower process then I'm used to. Tonight is break the ball joint and tie tod ends loose and yank front suspension.... Then heading to rear.

Tracking info shows rims are scheduled to arrive Friday..... I've got a lot of work to do to get the front coils welded up and toe/camber adjustments welded in Saturday and everything re-installed to test fit fitment.

If Oshkosh area peeps are looking for something to do nights this week or Saturday afternoon I'd love the help!

[B C]

just on the topic of balljoint separators

they have these at harbor freight (or for rent at o'reilly)

best tool for ball joint separation. 

If you run into any snags with the rear subframe dont hesitate to PM/call.

You should be able to manage, but it can be a little bit puzzling the first time if you dont "know the car"

[ClassE]

Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help.

[Earl]

ClassE said:

Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help.

hahahahaha. Any time before 8 feel free to call

[Jdesign]

ClassE said:

$400 ish from Condor - quality seems great. They should be in early next week - I'll report back once they're in!

Awesome, let us know!

[ClassE]

This is the "loose wire" I found in the drivers well:

[jc43089]

Yep brake pad wear sensor, that thing at the end clips into the little notch in the pad.  That one is probably junk, they need replacement when putting in new pads.

[wasnt m3]

The sensor only needs to be replaced if it is worn through. As the pad gets thin, the sensor wears through, breaking the wire running through it, illuminating the light. Yours is most definitely junk by the looks of it.

[Earl]

Remove the wear sensors and pop the bulb out of the dash=) Save big money!

[wasnt m3]

Or just connect the two wires...

[Earl]

Oh yeah....you told me to do that too. Looks like I found something to do Saturday=)

[ClassE]

Fronts are out! Now on to the rear...

[ClassE]

My son Bennett thought he'd "help".

[ClassE]

All I should have to do tomorrow to drop subframe is undo brake lines and unbolt subframe/diff bolt!

I'm so happy with the underside of this car - I'm having a hard time finding any real "rust" of any kind (heck hardly any speckle rust or ugly anything!). Obviously filthy - but southern cars are definitely the way to go!!!

Any help in ID'ing the existing drop springs - and a ballpark of what they're worth?

[jc43089]

Hmm...went back to look at pics of car height on first page...  If the price is right I might want them for my vert, I'd like a little drop but definitely not slammed.

[wasnt m3]

H&R sport