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  4. ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

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  • B
    B
    B C
    wrote on last edited by
    #105

    just on the topic of balljoint separators

    they have these at harbor freight (or for rent at o'reilly)

    OTC-6297.jpg

    best tool for ball joint separation. 

    If you run into any snags with the rear subframe dont hesitate to PM/call.

    You should be able to manage, but it can be a little bit puzzling the first time if you dont "know the car"

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • ClassEC
      ClassEC
      ClassE
      wrote on last edited by
      #106

      Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help. :P

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • EarlE
        EarlE
        Earl
        wrote on last edited by
        #107

        ClassE said:

        Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help. :P

        hahahahaha. Any time before 8 feel free to call

        museum sig 2earl.jpg

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • JdesignJ
          JdesignJ
          Jdesign
          wrote on last edited by
          #108

          ClassE said:

          $400 ish from Condor - quality seems great. They should be in early next week - I'll report back once they're in!

          Awesome, let us know!

          SumBunny.jpg

          https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

          🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
          👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
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          🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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          0
          • ClassEC
            ClassEC
            ClassE
            wrote on last edited by
            #109

            This is the "loose wire" I found in the drivers well:

            22BB7137-6E3F-4524-B87E-45D3AD59CBC7.jpg

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • jc43089J
              jc43089J
              jc43089
              wrote on last edited by
              #110

              Yep brake pad wear sensor, that thing at the end clips into the little notch in the pad.  That one is probably junk, they need replacement when putting in new pads.

              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • wasnt m3W
                wasnt m3W
                wasnt m3
                wrote on last edited by
                #111

                The sensor only needs to be replaced if it is worn through. As the pad gets thin, the sensor wears through, breaking the wire running through it, illuminating the light. Yours is most definitely junk by the looks of it.

                m3sig-1.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • EarlE
                  EarlE
                  Earl
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #112

                  Remove the wear sensors and pop the bulb out of the dash=) Save big money!

                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  2
                  • wasnt m3W
                    wasnt m3W
                    wasnt m3
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #113

                    Or just connect the two wires...

                    m3sig-1.jpg

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • EarlE
                      EarlE
                      Earl
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #114

                      Oh yeah....you told me to do that too. Looks like I found something to do Saturday=)

                      museum sig 2earl.jpg

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • ClassEC
                        ClassEC
                        ClassE
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #115

                        Fronts are out! Now on to the rear...

                        37A4B690-4FA8-42FB-94BB-183FB13C0BA2.jpg

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • ClassEC
                          ClassEC
                          ClassE
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #116

                          My son Bennett thought he'd "help".

                          A4532846-5D70-4D4A-90DE-F1B38AAA0DC5.jpg

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • ClassEC
                            ClassEC
                            ClassE
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #117

                            All I should have to do tomorrow to drop subframe is undo brake lines and unbolt subframe/diff bolt!

                            I'm so happy with the underside of this car - I'm having a hard time finding any real "rust" of any kind (heck hardly any speckle rust or ugly anything!). Obviously filthy - but southern cars are definitely the way to go!!!

                            Any help in ID'ing the existing drop springs - and a ballpark of what they're worth?

                            C3004115-58E8-43AB-9398-988962896852.jpg

                            FAAB8B82-7BEE-4AA8-9330-5CE0478B242A.jpg

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • jc43089J
                              jc43089J
                              jc43089
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #118

                              Hmm...went back to look at pics of car height on first page...  If the price is right I might want them for my vert, I'd like a little drop but definitely not slammed.

                              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • wasnt m3W
                                wasnt m3W
                                wasnt m3
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #119

                                H&R sport

                                m3sig-1.jpg

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • ClassEC
                                  ClassEC
                                  ClassE
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #120

                                  Fitment check. ;)

                                  EB1E8079-7E7F-46F7-ACE7-53CB9BA25CB8.jpg

                                  Going to get hubs welded Saturday AM.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • ClassEC
                                    ClassEC
                                    ClassE
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #121

                                    So to pull the front dust shields off - you have to pull the front hubs apart?!? WTF?

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • jc43089J
                                      jc43089J
                                      jc43089
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #122

                                      That is correct, I pulled mine off when disassembling hubs, and will not be putting new ones on.

                                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • ClassEC
                                        ClassEC
                                        ClassE
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #123

                                        Damnit.... We'll looks like they stay then until it's time to yank the hubs apart. :(

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • ClassEC
                                          ClassEC
                                          ClassE
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #124

                                          Retrieving wheels from FedEx in 9 hours and 20 minutes...... Not that I'm counting. :P

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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