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  4. ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

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  • ClassEC
    ClassEC
    ClassE
    wrote on last edited by
    #104

    I called it a night at that point last night. I'll have a go at it again tonight after work.

    It's odd pulling this apart after working on VWs for so long - similar of course but not knowing the nut sizes off the top of my head and trying to "learn the car" makes it a slower process then I'm used to. Tonight is break the ball joint and tie tod ends loose and yank front suspension.... Then heading to rear.

    Tracking info shows rims are scheduled to arrive Friday..... I've got a lot of work to do to get the front coils welded up and toe/camber adjustments welded in Saturday and everything re-installed to test fit fitment.

    If Oshkosh area peeps are looking for something to do nights this week or Saturday afternoon I'd love the help!

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • B
      B
      B C
      wrote on last edited by
      #105

      just on the topic of balljoint separators

      they have these at harbor freight (or for rent at o'reilly)

      OTC-6297.jpg

      best tool for ball joint separation. 

      If you run into any snags with the rear subframe dont hesitate to PM/call.

      You should be able to manage, but it can be a little bit puzzling the first time if you dont "know the car"

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • ClassEC
        ClassEC
        ClassE
        wrote on last edited by
        #106

        Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help. :P

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • EarlE
          EarlE
          Earl
          wrote on last edited by
          #107

          ClassE said:

          Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help. :P

          hahahahaha. Any time before 8 feel free to call

          museum sig 2earl.jpg

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • JdesignJ
            JdesignJ
            Jdesign
            wrote on last edited by
            #108

            ClassE said:

            $400 ish from Condor - quality seems great. They should be in early next week - I'll report back once they're in!

            Awesome, let us know!

            SumBunny.jpg

            https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

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            0
            • ClassEC
              ClassEC
              ClassE
              wrote on last edited by
              #109

              This is the "loose wire" I found in the drivers well:

              22BB7137-6E3F-4524-B87E-45D3AD59CBC7.jpg

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • jc43089J
                jc43089J
                jc43089
                wrote on last edited by
                #110

                Yep brake pad wear sensor, that thing at the end clips into the little notch in the pad.  That one is probably junk, they need replacement when putting in new pads.

                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • wasnt m3W
                  wasnt m3W
                  wasnt m3
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #111

                  The sensor only needs to be replaced if it is worn through. As the pad gets thin, the sensor wears through, breaking the wire running through it, illuminating the light. Yours is most definitely junk by the looks of it.

                  m3sig-1.jpg

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • EarlE
                    EarlE
                    Earl
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #112

                    Remove the wear sensors and pop the bulb out of the dash=) Save big money!

                    museum sig 2earl.jpg

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    2
                    • wasnt m3W
                      wasnt m3W
                      wasnt m3
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #113

                      Or just connect the two wires...

                      m3sig-1.jpg

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • EarlE
                        EarlE
                        Earl
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #114

                        Oh yeah....you told me to do that too. Looks like I found something to do Saturday=)

                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • ClassEC
                          ClassEC
                          ClassE
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #115

                          Fronts are out! Now on to the rear...

                          37A4B690-4FA8-42FB-94BB-183FB13C0BA2.jpg

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • ClassEC
                            ClassEC
                            ClassE
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #116

                            My son Bennett thought he'd "help".

                            A4532846-5D70-4D4A-90DE-F1B38AAA0DC5.jpg

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            1
                            • ClassEC
                              ClassEC
                              ClassE
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #117

                              All I should have to do tomorrow to drop subframe is undo brake lines and unbolt subframe/diff bolt!

                              I'm so happy with the underside of this car - I'm having a hard time finding any real "rust" of any kind (heck hardly any speckle rust or ugly anything!). Obviously filthy - but southern cars are definitely the way to go!!!

                              Any help in ID'ing the existing drop springs - and a ballpark of what they're worth?

                              C3004115-58E8-43AB-9398-988962896852.jpg

                              FAAB8B82-7BEE-4AA8-9330-5CE0478B242A.jpg

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • jc43089J
                                jc43089J
                                jc43089
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #118

                                Hmm...went back to look at pics of car height on first page...  If the price is right I might want them for my vert, I'd like a little drop but definitely not slammed.

                                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • wasnt m3W
                                  wasnt m3W
                                  wasnt m3
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #119

                                  H&R sport

                                  m3sig-1.jpg

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • ClassEC
                                    ClassEC
                                    ClassE
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #120

                                    Fitment check. ;)

                                    EB1E8079-7E7F-46F7-ACE7-53CB9BA25CB8.jpg

                                    Going to get hubs welded Saturday AM.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • ClassEC
                                      ClassEC
                                      ClassE
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #121

                                      So to pull the front dust shields off - you have to pull the front hubs apart?!? WTF?

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • jc43089J
                                        jc43089J
                                        jc43089
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #122

                                        That is correct, I pulled mine off when disassembling hubs, and will not be putting new ones on.

                                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • ClassEC
                                          ClassEC
                                          ClassE
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #123

                                          Damnit.... We'll looks like they stay then until it's time to yank the hubs apart. :(

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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