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  4. Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)

Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)

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  • DrLeadFootD
    DrLeadFootD
    DrLeadFoot
    wrote on last edited by
    #664

    I think I did it right. Tried to keep everything as clean as possible. Rubber gloves and brake clean were flying everywhere!

    15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

         @DrLeadFoot

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • GunMetalGreyG
      GunMetalGreyG
      GunMetalGrey
      wrote on last edited by
      #665

      What is all the white stuff that you have on the main bearings and caps? Assembly lube of sorts?

      Are you replacing the crank sprocket? You had mentioned that it was rounded.

      Looking good!

      ...

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • DrLeadFootD
        DrLeadFootD
        DrLeadFoot
        wrote on last edited by
        #666

        Assembly Lube ;)

        My project of the weekend is to get the new sprocket on.

        15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

             @DrLeadFoot

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • DrLeadFootD
          DrLeadFootD
          DrLeadFoot
          wrote on last edited by
          #667

          ryru8u4u.jpg

          uqemejy3.jpg

          These two inverted torx bolts that secure the lower cover on were finger loose. No wonder I was leaking oil.

          #loctiteeverything

          15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

               @DrLeadFoot

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • B
            B
            B C
            wrote on last edited by
            #668

            Another nice find by the doctor!

            1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • DrLeadFootD
              DrLeadFootD
              DrLeadFoot
              wrote on last edited by
              #669

              Jesus bolt out.

              3arebure.jpg

              Stretched as I thought. If you didn't read it earlier the bolt was easily loosened by a big pair of channel grips.

              tenapunu.jpg

              15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                   @DrLeadFoot

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • DrLeadFootD
                DrLeadFootD
                DrLeadFoot
                wrote on last edited by
                #670

                Any advise to get the middle torx bolt on the timing case cover loose without removing the cams?

                15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                     @DrLeadFoot

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #671

                  You might have to remove the short chain and tensioner but not the cams.  Try a 1/4" drive 12pt socket and swivel.

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • DrLeadFootD
                    DrLeadFootD
                    DrLeadFoot
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #672

                    Still trying to find time and motivation to get in the garage. 

                    I was thinking about not using the metal gasket on the front cover and just going for the Ford black atv sealant.  In order for Kummrow to stop the leaking I had to ask them to ATV seal all gaskets. 

                    I will be ordering new exhaust vanos sprocket bolts just in case the old ones are stretched out like every other bolt has been so far. 

                    That should be it for parts then I just have to get my ass in gear!!

                    15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                         @DrLeadFoot

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #673

                      What is your crankcase vented to?  I'm just curious because I have never had leaking problems like this.  If your crankcase gets pressurized though it will leak everywhere.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • DrLeadFootD
                        DrLeadFootD
                        DrLeadFoot
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #674

                        I have it on vacuum via the exhaust.

                        Have you turbo'd one before?  I guess they leak pretty bad from the crank case pressure.

                        15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                             @DrLeadFoot

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #675

                          Vacuum via the exhaust?  Not sure what you mean.  I have not had a turbo before but these engines have a large vent so i would think unless you have lots of ring leakage it should vent fast enough.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • DrLeadFootD
                            DrLeadFootD
                            DrLeadFoot
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #676

                            http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-Crankcase-Evacuation-System/751825/10002/-1

                            15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                                 @DrLeadFoot

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • jc43089J
                              jc43089J
                              jc43089
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #677

                              So it isn't a vacuum, just a low pressure, it attaches post turbo right?  There will still be some pressure.  I am not sold on this setup.  Why not just a catch can vented to atmosphere?  I understand that you don't want oil going into the turbo inlet so this would be the next best thing.

                              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • DrLeadFootD
                                DrLeadFootD
                                DrLeadFoot
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #678

                                My crank case set up goes from the valve cover vent--->catch can--->exhaust vacuum.

                                If you pull vacuum from the crank case it makes more power from what I've heard from drag racing / turbo guys.

                                15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                                     @DrLeadFoot

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • B
                                  B
                                  B C
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #679

                                  I see a lot of people running the crankcase vent to the exhaust. I have mine run to a catch can then to a port just downstream of the air filter. 
                                  the turbo inlet is completely dry and oil free and the catch can is doing its job. So far so good. Not sure if its more of a concern on a 24v though.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • Bassboy3313B
                                    Bassboy3313B
                                    Bassboy3313
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #680

                                    Snap said:

                                    I see a lot of people running the crankcase vent to the exhaust. I have mine run to a catch can then to a port just downstream of the air filter. 

                                    the turbo inlet is completely dry and oil free and the catch can is doing its job. So far so good. Not sure if its more of a concern on a 24v though. 

                                    This is how I have my catch can setup too on my turbo m10.

                                    CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • jc43089J
                                      jc43089J
                                      jc43089
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #681

                                      My point is, that if it is connected to the exhaust it is not a vacuum.  If it was then air would be going the wrong way through your exhaust system.  It may be a convenient way to get rid of the crankcase venting but it is not a vacuum.

                                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • B
                                        B
                                        B C
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #682

                                        fluid moving past an orifice CAN produce a vacuum as molecules get dragged into the airstream. I believe the Dr said it had a check valve to keep from going the wrong direction when I was picking his brain on the matter.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • EarlE
                                          EarlE
                                          Earl
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #683

                                          Snap said:

                                          fluid moving past an orifice CAN produce a vacuum as molecules get dragged into the airstream. I believe the Dr said it had a check valve to keep from going the wrong direction when I was picking his brain on the matter.

                                           venturi effect=)

                                          museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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