Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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Either way this thing is amazing!!!
Thanks!
I'm really excited to see what the dyno will read after addressing a couple of areas over these past months:
- 2 Vacuum leaks fixed
- ICV snap in fitting on the intake manifold RTV'd shut. This kept on popping out during hard pulls.
- Crushed plastic barbed fitting leading to ICV.
- Spark plugs
- Triple checked the gap to .021 on all plugs.
- Having all plug openings exactly, let me say it again, exactly facing away from the intake side to help prevent blowout.
- Vacuum on the crank case via exhaust.
- I slightly ported out the valve cover vent hole for better flow.
- Putting vacuum on the CC helps the pistons move downward easier therefore making more power.
- I need to hook up a gauge to this to see how much it is working.
- Full exhaust
- This might hurt my HP numbers but help with torque? Maybe? Input please.
I put down 422 with the plugs breaking up at 5k rpm and major vacuum leaks. It will be cool to see how much of a difference all these little problems hindered the output.
I should be able to get in the garage tomorrow morning and get to getting to button everything up.
@DrLeadFoot
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oh gosh why O__O
I just popped the intake manifold off to get at the heater core hoses easily.
I'm headed back into the garage to start putting everything back together after I eat.
@DrLeadFoot
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Billy doing work!
All buttoned up! Radiator/Coolant/Oil tomorrow if work doesn't get in the way.
Snap, see the intercooler mount?
I'm going to run cheap oil and sea foam to Billy's shop on 1st St. then get a new filter and royal purple in there.
I picked up some new covers from Gluten Parts. So nice to see the new parts sticker!!
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@DrLeadFoot
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So I got it running again and I narrowed down the leak to the lower cover towards the top. Ugh.
#processofelimination
I have Teflon and an o-ring on the tensioner. So I don't think that's where the leak is coming from.
I'll see if anything is loose then if it is still leaking I'll have to pop off the valve cover and lower cover then try to get enough space in between the block and cover to ooze some rtv in there without having to take off The Bolt of Jesus.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I had a leak from the same(ish) spot!
You really can't move it much, need to unbolt it from the head (3 small torx) and you need to use a wobble extension to get under the timing chain without taking it out, 1/4" drive is required for that one.
Take out the front oil pan bolts, but loosen the rest a turn or two and now it should be separated enough!
Was a pain to do, but not as bad as expected.
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
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I had a leak from the same(ish) spot! You really can't move it much, need to unbolt it from the head (3 small torx) and you need to use a wobble extension to get under the timing chain without taking it out, 1/4" drive is required for that one. Take out the front oil pan bolts, but loosen the rest a turn or two and now it should be separated enough! Was a pain to do, but not as bad as expected. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for the reassurance! I'll probably run it with the leak for a bit until I break it down again.
@DrLeadFoot
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That engine deserves a quality air filter
I'll work on that. I have a k&n itching to be installed.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Watch your oil/coolant closely. That front cover has oil and coolant running in it, those don't like mixing
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I'll get in the garage once this cold snap gets outta here!
After I fix this leak I'm heading straight to the dyno.
@DrLeadFoot
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Gift from the girlfriend!!!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Please tell me you have a jumpsuit to match the shoes!
Oh God do I wish!!!
@DrLeadFoot
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