Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
-
20-24psi. Whatever spring combo gets me up in that range. That is my turbo's g-spot.
Jesus.
-
20-24psi. Whatever spring combo gets me up in that range. That is my turbo's g-spot.
I know next to nothing about turbos and that number sound incredible.
20-24psi. Whatever spring combo gets me up in that range. That is my turbo's g-spot.
Jesus.
I'm at 15 now and running super rich. On a fully built motor I #should be good on this.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
Took a trip out to Rat'z barn where I had built my car. Got my BOV line finished up, bought another propane heater and had a beer.
Rat'z Sno-Commander
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
yea honestly 550 with a built s52 i would be sad. Why did you pick 9.2:1 pistons for pump gas? Or maybe you just wanted something reliable around those numbers. Not bashing or anything, just wondering.
My goal of building this was to have it as a badass daily driver so I want the tune to reflect what the car will be doing 90% of the time.
Truth be told I have no idea what the HP will be after I crank the boost up. I tend to under promise and have the car over deliver. The first and only dyno pull I guessed the HP at 385 and it did 422.
My main 3 fears are 1) Pushing the limits of the motor and blowing the head gasket or something worse. 2) Having the stock rear diff mount rip out. 3) Blowing up the stock getrag 260 that has 250,000+ on it.
All those fears add up to not wanting to spend anymore big $$$ or having more summer down time. I wanna drive!
We will see what the dyno will say. I'd like it to be more horsepower heavy than torquey to save the tranny and diff mounts.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
I'm not there yet! Don't get me wrong, if I'm putting down 650 after the new tune I will be a grinning goofball.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
Either way this thing is amazing!!!
-
Either way this thing is amazing!!!
Thanks!
I'm really excited to see what the dyno will read after addressing a couple of areas over these past months:
- 2 Vacuum leaks fixed
- ICV snap in fitting on the intake manifold RTV'd shut. This kept on popping out during hard pulls.
- Crushed plastic barbed fitting leading to ICV.
- Spark plugs
- Triple checked the gap to .021 on all plugs.
- Having all plug openings exactly, let me say it again, exactly facing away from the intake side to help prevent blowout.
- Vacuum on the crank case via exhaust.
- I slightly ported out the valve cover vent hole for better flow.
- Putting vacuum on the CC helps the pistons move downward easier therefore making more power.
- I need to hook up a gauge to this to see how much it is working.
- Full exhaust
- This might hurt my HP numbers but help with torque? Maybe? Input please.
I put down 422 with the plugs breaking up at 5k rpm and major vacuum leaks. It will be cool to see how much of a difference all these little problems hindered the output.
I should be able to get in the garage tomorrow morning and get to getting to button everything up.
@DrLeadFoot
-
-
oh gosh why O__O
I just popped the intake manifold off to get at the heater core hoses easily.
I'm headed back into the garage to start putting everything back together after I eat.
@DrLeadFoot
-
Billy doing work!
All buttoned up! Radiator/Coolant/Oil tomorrow if work doesn't get in the way.
Snap, see the intercooler mount?
I'm going to run cheap oil and sea foam to Billy's shop on 1st St. then get a new filter and royal purple in there.
I picked up some new covers from Gluten Parts. So nice to see the new parts sticker!!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
So I got it running again and I narrowed down the leak to the lower cover towards the top. Ugh.
#processofelimination
I have Teflon and an o-ring on the tensioner. So I don't think that's where the leak is coming from.
I'll see if anything is loose then if it is still leaking I'll have to pop off the valve cover and lower cover then try to get enough space in between the block and cover to ooze some rtv in there without having to take off The Bolt of Jesus.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
I had a leak from the same(ish) spot!
You really can't move it much, need to unbolt it from the head (3 small torx) and you need to use a wobble extension to get under the timing chain without taking it out, 1/4" drive is required for that one.
Take out the front oil pan bolts, but loosen the rest a turn or two and now it should be separated enough!
Was a pain to do, but not as bad as expected.
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
-
I had a leak from the same(ish) spot! You really can't move it much, need to unbolt it from the head (3 small torx) and you need to use a wobble extension to get under the timing chain without taking it out, 1/4" drive is required for that one. Take out the front oil pan bolts, but loosen the rest a turn or two and now it should be separated enough! Was a pain to do, but not as bad as expected. Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for the reassurance! I'll probably run it with the leak for a bit until I break it down again.
@DrLeadFoot
-
That engine deserves a quality air filter
I'll work on that. I have a k&n itching to be installed.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
Watch your oil/coolant closely. That front cover has oil and coolant running in it, those don't like mixing
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login