E21 project thread
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So I ended up removing the VR conditioner and all wiring the PO did along with all my stepper IAC wiring from the MS controller board. I then followed the MS2extra EDIS wiring schematic from scratch and tested it. With a little temporary rewiring to the EDIS module, I now get an RPM signal on my log. AWESOME!!!
I now just need to finalize the EDIS wiring, shielding/grounding wires that need it and so on. Then check for constant strong spark to check that side of things off the list.
The other thing I have noticed is that Tunerstudio still says NOT SYNCED when I turn the ignition on as well as while I am cranking. Someone said that the car will never fire with it saying NOT SYNCED while cranking and that I need to debug the trigger setup before attempting anything else (3rd post in link below). I have no idea what this means. Any ideas?
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Got the EDIS sparking well finally, but now the MS won't ground the fuel pump relay to get fuel to the rail. I've been chasing problem after problem and I think I finally narrowed it down to the small one that will make the car run once fixed. Tomorrow I am going to try and bypass the MS signal for the fuel pump relay and put that relay pin direct to ground. Hopefully I should have a running car. *crossing my fingers* If that is the case, then I know something within the MS unit itself is bad. I've been reading up and it seems that a few bad transistors could be causing MS to act this way. We shall see if the ground switch-a-roo works first tho.
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Got the EDIS sparking well finally, but now the MS won't ground the fuel pump relay to get fuel to the rail. I've been chasing problem after problem and I think I finally narrowed it down to the small one that will make the car run once fixed. Tomorrow I am going to try and bypass the MS signal for the fuel pump relay and put that relay pin direct to ground. Hopefully I should have a running car. *crossing my fingers* If that is the case, then I know something within the MS unit itself is bad. I've been reading up and it seems that a few bad transistors could be causing MS to act this way. We shall see if the ground switch-a-roo works first tho.
Your car started today, correct?
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It surely did! The ground switch-a-roo worked so now I know the issue is within the megasquirt itself for the fuel pump relay signal. It was music to my ears until the idle rpm shot up and I noticed a fuel leak at the rail, doh!!
I figured the IAC that is currently not being used is open and causing a huge vac leak which would cause the high idle. I went ahead and capped that off for now and should fix that problem.
I also ran a new switched 12v source wire to the megasquirt fuse panel and cleaned up the wiring a bit too.
As for the fuel leak. I am thinking that the welds from the fpr mount is where its coming from. You can see the spray pattern in the video below which makes me think its pin holes in the welds rather than it leaking from the cup where the fpr nipple mounts inside the rail.
http://vid144.photobucket.com/albums/r175/bassboy3313/VID_20140715_133548_828_zps7f6017f1.mp4
http://vid144.photobucket.com/albums/r175/bassboy3313/VID_20140715_133407_674_zps640d113c.mp4
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It all falls in line, huh?
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So I got the fuel rail dye checked and rewelded and still has a leak. This obviously means its something else. After thinking and thinking some more, I realized that the stock cup that the FPR o-ring goes into was tapered, just like the injector cups. When I modified the rail I had to make a new cup and weld it on. Doing so, the new cup is not tapered and I am assuming that the o-ring is not sealing properly due to this.
What I am thinking now is to cut off the FPR bracket and cup from the rail, weld on a nipple, then its just running a fuel hose to an aftermarket FPR. I didn't want to go this route before since I hate the look of those stupid adjustable FPR's with the gauge on it and junk. I then thought, maybe it won't be so bad. I can have the gauge on the FPR to dial in the pressure (3.5bar or roughly 50psi), unscrew the gauge from the FPR and screw in a plug. This way it wont look as stupid. Seems like the easiest route to take and less chance of leaking.
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Finally after what feels like a bajillion times trying to get this fuel rail to stop leaking its actually stopped leaking. The metal that these rails are made out of just do not weld well. So I ended up cutting off fpr bracket and cup, drilling/tapping a large nut and welding that to the rail. Then I covered the entire area with 2 layers of jb weld and 2 coats of KBS rust seal paint.
Leaking
Fixed
While all that was happening, I kept my sanity by doing other things such as...
Painting some emblems to match
And replacing US seatbelt/o2 sensor light with a blank piece
Now to mount the fpr, run longer hoses, put things back together and start tuning megasquirt! Calling on Snap!
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After work I started on getting things back together. I put some fuel sealant on the fuel rail fitting. That needs 24 hours to dry before allowing fuel through it, so I starting on the fpr mounts.
I took the left over aluminum stock from the oil catch can mount I made, cut and bent it to shape, drilled some holes and done! Sprayed it all black and waiting for it to dry. Tomorrow I will run new hoses and put more back together.
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Almost there bassface!!!
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Well got it all together and she fired right up! Idles super rich to the point of almost dying without having an IAC hooked up tho. Hhmmm
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After some setbacks Brian (Snap) and I got the car idling better with the megasquirt tune last week. Wasn't able to work on it all week, so today I fixed some minor leaks with sealant and am letting those dry over night. Tomorrow will hopefully be the day I take it for a test run when I get back from Woodstock, IL motorcycle swap meet. Let VEAL on tunerstudio do its thing and see what happens.
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I did a compression test today and compression on all cylinders checked out fine. Looks like all is good. My spark plug gap was really high tho, so I regapped them lower and seems to idle a lot smoother as well.
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