Fancy Stancy 325is

[B C]

The one OBD2 component I really wanted to keep was the cyclonic oil separator but a catch can will suffice.

I really hope to see your white car back together in all its restored glory one of these days.

[jc43089]

patsbimmer1 said:

Take a ride east and go buy a Farm and Fleet battery!  Made in Pennsylvania by East Penn Manufacturing.

I have seen at Farm and Fleet AGM batteries that are colored like Optima red, yellow, blue but are square instead of looking like a 6 pack.  Do you know who makes those?  I like the AGM because it doesn't vent and cause rust in the trunk.

Snap said:

The one OBD2 component I really wanted to keep was the cyclonic oil separator but a catch can will suffice.

I really hope to see your white car back together in all its restored glory one of these days.

Yea I should install a catch can.  But some top end lube isn't the worst.  It pools in the intake manifold though because of how the runners leave the log part up high.  Then when you drive hard it seems to suck it in, that's when I see blue smoke.  I only add a quart every 1500ish miles and a lot of that is leaks too.

The sedan will be back someday.  I hope to pour concrete in the barn/shop next summer, then I have a place to work on it.  A bunch of time was taken up this summer with animal stuff.  We got some American Guinea Hogs in addition to our flock of chickens so we were learning lots.

[B C]

I didnt consider the top end lube aspect, I think I might start feeling angry if I saw a puff of smoke from my car though. Ive got some automotive PTSD going on from the last 2 engines

[jc43089]

Snap said:

I didnt consider the top end lube aspect, I think I might start feeling angry if I saw a puff of smoke from my car though. Ive got some automotive PTSD going on from the last 2 engines

Ehhh, 2 strokers do it all the time, just giver!

[patsbimmer1]

jc43089 said:

I have seen at Farm and Fleet AGM batteries that are colored like Optima red, yellow, blue but are square instead of looking like a 6 pack.  Do you know who makes those?  I like the AGM because it doesn't vent and cause rust in the trunk

Im pretty confident its also made by East Penn but I will find out for sure.

[patsbimmer1]

@jc43089 My buyer confirmed that they are also made by East Penn.

[jc43089]

patsbimmer1 said:

@jc43089 My buyer confirmed that they are also made by East Penn.

Thanks!

I seem to be losing fuel at a rapid rate. 1/3 tank gone in 60 miles is not right.  I can't find a drip anywhere though.  I did check the vacuum line on the FPR and no gas in there.  Injector stuck open?  Wouldn't that cause it to run horrible?  It idles a little high but seems smooth and I just had the battery disconnected so it is still adapting.

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

Thanks!

I seem to be losing fuel at a rapid rate. 1/3 tank gone in 60 miles is not right.  I can't find a drip anywhere though.  I did check the vacuum line on the FPR and no gas in there.  Injector stuck open?  Wouldn't that cause it to run horrible?  It idles a little high but seems smooth and I just had the battery disconnected so it is still adapting.

Check the gauge. Otherwise I would test all the injectors.

[jc43089]

10k miles on the car so far.  Runs like a champ except starting is a challenge below 0.  Monday morning I knew it was going to be really cold so I put it on ramps in the garage and put a pair of 250w chicken heat lamps under it.  Were block heaters or oil pan heaters ever available for the e36?

[KaiserRolls]

Chicken heat lamps is a wonderful idea for that haha!

[YoungCR]

Just buy a magnetic oil pan heater, I know they are available locally at Farm and Fleet.

[B C]

Aloominium

[YoungCR]

Snap said:

Aloominium

damn it! carry on...

[jc43089]

Also there are adhesive ones, but they would never stay on with the copious amount of oil that escapes confinement.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

[B C]

I saw a heated oil dipstick but it had a 1 star review

[Rekpoint]

Curious how much of an improvement your rebuild of the shifter linkage did? I definitely am going to have to do that this summer on my car.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[jc43089]

Rekpoint said:

Curious how much of an improvement your rebuild of the shifter linkage did? I definitely am going to have to do that this summer on my car.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Huge improvement, a DSSR and new plastic cup are essential.  The delrin front carrier bushings and poly rear carrier bushing are nice.  Might as well do it all "while you are in there"  Get the Turner rear poly bushing that was linked earlier that is already installed in a bracket.  The garagistic one is a pain, not worth the savings.

[Rekpoint]

jc43089 said:

Huge improvement, a DSSR and new plastic cup are essential.  The delrin front carrier bushings and poly rear carrier bushing are nice.  Might as well do it all "while you are in there"  Get the Turner rear poly bushing that was linked earlier that is already installed in a bracket.  The garagistic one is a pain, not worth the savings.

Will do. I also plan on getting a z3 short shifter and a zhp knob.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[jc43089]

Update on using the EV6 injectors, I finally got around to making some spacer rings to ensure that the injectors can't slip out of the fuel rail and cause a leak.  The original EV1 injectors had more plastic at the base so that even if you did not install the retaining clips the injectors can't go anywhere.  The clips mainly keep the injectors in the rail when you remove it.  The EV6 injectors I got could slip down enough to come out of the fuel rail if you pushed on them.  They also didn't have a groove for the clip, EV6 injector bodies are not all the same, some have enough plastic to cut new grooves for the retaining clips but these do not and they were the only thing I could find within 5% of the green injectors flow rating.  The are from a Ford Contour SVT.  You can see here how there is almost 1/4" before the plastic body would bottom out on the manifold, this picture is just from test fitting.

I made 6 rings to put over the injectors to mimic the stock design.  .531 ID, .210 length.  The OD was .730ish because I just skimmed some 3/4 stock.  304 stainless because that is what's in the scrap bin at work.

Installed.  There is a little wiggle room, around .010 - .015.  I feel much better about them now.

I also fixed the coil pack studs on cylinder 5 that were held in with JB weld which was not sufficient.  One was already pulled out and the other you could only tighten finger tight or it would pull out too.  i used helicoils which worked well.  Other than the magnesium shavings from drilling/tapping the manifold make a huge mess sticking in the oil residue that coats everything on this car.  I didn't get any pictures but you get the idea.

In other news something is going funky, my gas mileage dropped to horrendous levels.  Like 15mpg.  I verified that no injectors are leaking, no external fuel leaks.  A brand new Bosch FPR did not help.  I replaced the O2 sensor with Bosch within the last 10k but maybe it's junk?  or maybe I need to send the injectors out to get checked.  They were Ebay "Refurbished"  with 6 of them for 60 bucks so I was a bit skeptical.  They are genuine Bosch ones but were probably just pulled from a junk car.

[Jdesign]

Check the flow of them with a simple 9v battery outside of the car into a jar? Is the FPR adjustable? Get a gauge on there and you can see what the FP is at.