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  4. '88 E30

'88 E30

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • KaiserRollsK
    KaiserRollsK
    KaiserRolls
    wrote on last edited by
    #474

    Rest of the parts have arrived.

    24v skid plate from red46

    Inner and outer e36 tierods

    Driveshaft nuts

    Spring pads

    Still need to order

    Suspension (coils?)

    Brake pads

    Front brake lines

    And probably some misc stuff

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    • straight6pwrS
      straight6pwrS
      straight6pwr
      wrote on last edited by
      #475

      sway bars suck third-ed and move to strike.

      glad you got a skid plate, they are 100% necessary for these swaps.

      Dan
      yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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      • KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRolls
        wrote on last edited by
        #476

        Only thing I'm nervous about is I have an aftermarket core support (my original one was kinda twisted and rusty) the aftermarket China ones work well enough, they are just quite thin and bendy. I think it should work because the red46 plate includes some hardware (drilling required) which includes a plate to sandwich the core support. Should be fine unless I go bounce off some rocks out in moab

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        • GunMetalGreyG
          GunMetalGreyG
          GunMetalGrey
          wrote on last edited by
          #477

          KaiserRolls said:

          Only thing I'm nervous about is I have an aftermarket core support (my original one was kinda twisted and rusty) the aftermarket China ones work well enough, they are just quite thin and bendy. I think it should work because the red46 plate includes some hardware (drilling required) which includes a plate to sandwich the core support. Should be fine unless I go bounce off some rocks out in moab

          You could always cut the core support open and stick a piece of square tube in there. 
          Wait, e30's aren't supposed to go to Moab? I better cancel my trip.....

          ...

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          • KaiserRollsK
            KaiserRollsK
            KaiserRolls
            wrote on last edited by
            #478

            GunMetalGrey said:

            KaiserRolls said:

            Only thing I'm nervous about is I have an aftermarket core support (my original one was kinda twisted and rusty) the aftermarket China ones work well enough, they are just quite thin and bendy. I think it should work because the red46 plate includes some hardware (drilling required) which includes a plate to sandwich the core support. Should be fine unless I go bounce off some rocks out in moab

            You could always cut the core support open and stick a piece of square tube in there. 

            Wait, e30's aren't supposed to go to Moab? I better cancel my trip.....

            We will see if the square tube is needed. For my uses, I doubt it - other end attaches to steering rack bolts. I guess if I hit something hard enough I'd rather tweak the core support vs the subframe/steering rack components

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            • straight6pwrS
              straight6pwrS
              straight6pwr
              wrote on last edited by
              #479

              you could copy/get the hoop from the 'severe duty skid plates' from the guy on e30tech. i hit some big shit and no frame/steering rack damage with it.

              Dan
              yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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              • KaiserRollsK
                KaiserRollsK
                KaiserRolls
                wrote on last edited by
                #480

                I'm not going crazy low or anything. This is just more of a precaution. The red46 plates are surprisingly beefy

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                • KaiserRollsK
                  KaiserRollsK
                  KaiserRolls
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #481

                  Steering rack back together with new lemforder shizzzz. Got the "alignment" (outer length) as close as I could. But my first stop is going to be to the alignment rack

                  f5a4ea2f34e1ffe9c8155dfbcba1237b.jpg

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                  • KaiserRollsK
                    KaiserRollsK
                    KaiserRolls
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #482

                    5aca0b3f9b7d999915fcc2b83387e197.jpg

                    Got tired and went inside. This is all the farther I made it. Bought new axle nuts. Promptly lost new axle nuts. Going to re use the old ones because there's nothing wrong with them, stupid shit like that frustrates me

                    "Hey my new parts showed up" "hey I already misplaced them" they didn't even make it out of the bag they were shipped in 😕

                    I hate my brain sometimes

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                    • KaiserRollsK
                      KaiserRollsK
                      KaiserRolls
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #483

                      Oh I also broke the cv boot clamp, so I'll need a new one of those as well

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • EarlE
                        EarlE
                        Earl
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #484

                        That looks like a new axle nut it the last shot and it is surely out of its bag...

                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                        • KaiserRollsK
                          KaiserRollsK
                          KaiserRolls
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #485

                          That's the old one

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                          • B
                            B
                            B C
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #486

                            What tool did you use for the dust boot clamps?

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                            • KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRolls
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #487

                              Snap said:

                              What tool did you use for the dust boot clamps?

                              For the steering rack? My hands. When I take it to get it aligned I'll have them tighten up those clamps

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                              • Bassboy3313B
                                Bassboy3313B
                                Bassboy3313
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #488

                                Zip ties ftw!!!

                                CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                                1 Reply Last reply
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                                • KaiserRollsK
                                  KaiserRollsK
                                  KaiserRolls
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #489

                                  So the lock plates I have are not the right ones, even tho the PN is for an 88 e30.

                                  18318abc5b52dc317ebacc98066c2c69.jpg

                                  New on left, old on right.

                                  The new ones only slide like halfway into the bore.

                                  After talking with Blunttech for a bit - I'm going to make garbage art with the lock plates & put the nuts on with some loctite and torque them

                                  Lock plates not fitting + losing my nuts made for an annoying night working on this junk

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                                  • straight6pwrS
                                    straight6pwrS
                                    straight6pwr
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #490

                                    looks like you have the right ones.  the lock plates go on AFTER the nut. clean out the bore best you can, then tap/pound them into the into the bore over top of the nut until they deform around the nut. (hex nut into a circle hole) should be tight, that's the point!  they are destroyed when you remove them as you have to pry them out, so make sure everything is torqued down and good to go before tapping them into place.

                                    Dan
                                    yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                                    • KaiserRollsK
                                      KaiserRollsK
                                      KaiserRolls
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #491

                                      I have read 50/50 that they go on before and after. If they went on before, it would make sense to bend the tabs around the nut. If they go on after I'm literally going to take a socket and beat the shit out of them, kind of defeating the locking purpose?

                                      When I originally removed my axle nuts the lock plates were on the back side of the nut

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                                      • straight6pwrS
                                        straight6pwrS
                                        straight6pwr
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #492

                                        KaiserRolls said:

                                        I have read 50/50 that they go on before and after. If they went on before, it would make sense to bend the tabs around the nut. If they go on after I'm literally going to take a socket and beat the shit out of them, kind of defeating the locking purpose?

                                        When I originally removed my axle nuts the lock plates were on the back side of the nut

                                        no, beating them into place is what is locking them. the three tabs on the outside of the plate hold the plate from spinning in the hub, the center part which you deform around the hex nut hold the nut from spinning. the pressure from beating them in holds them in their place.

                                        they aren't a lock washer/crush washer like you are thinking that goes under the nut. there is are no ridges or pressure that would help hold the axle nut in place. it would be like a regular old washer.

                                        when you removed the original ones, they were either corroded/fell apart to where it looked like they were behind or someone installed them wrong. from your picture it looks like they had fallen apart.

                                        Dan
                                        yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                                        • GunMetalGreyG
                                          GunMetalGreyG
                                          GunMetalGrey
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #493

                                          How would they lock if they were behind the nut? 
                                          The three outer notches hold the lock plate in place, then you push (beat) the flat surface of the "washer" to conform it to the out profile of the hex. That provides a lock so the nut cannot move. 
                                          If it was behind the nut it is just a washer that cannot spin.

                                          ...

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