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  4. BMW Bushing Puller Tool Needed

BMW Bushing Puller Tool Needed

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Services Offered/Wanted
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  • BMWbenB
    BMWbenB
    BMWben
    wrote on last edited by
    #8

    BenDem said:

    I'm going to try to do the bushings without dropping the subframe, per the thread I posted above.

    Are we going to be doing it in 5 minutes too? and please let us know!

    1446849910209930378394662425 (1).jpg

    BMWCCA #499464

    Current - 1995 540i/6 V 2.0 | Dead - 1995 540i/6 | Sold - 1995 318is

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • BenDemB
      BenDemB
      BenDem
      wrote on last edited by
      #9

      BMWben said:

      Are we going to be doing it in 5 minutes too? and please let us know!

      I'm shooting for 4.  I'll know more about my plans once I find the source of some other noises (hopefully tonight).

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      • EarlE
        EarlE
        Earl
        wrote on last edited by
        #10

        An air chisel works really well for removing the outer metal sleeve too. Both of you are upgrading to poly bushings I would assume? They last forever so I see no reason to use OEM=) Also, they are easier to install and they stiffen up the rear a nice amount. I put poly in my compact and my e34 has all poly rear bushings and it feels excellent.

        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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        • BenDemB
          BenDemB
          BenDem
          wrote on last edited by
          #11

          Earl said:

          An air chisel works really well for removing the outer metal sleeve too. Both of you are upgrading to poly bushings I would assume? They last forever so I see no reason to use OEM=) Also, they are easier to install and they stiffen up the rear a nice amount. I put poly in my compact and my e34 has all poly rear bushings and it feels excellent. 

          Aren't poly's pretty noisy / harsh?

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          • EarlE
            EarlE
            Earl
            wrote on last edited by
            #12

            Mine aren't harsh and make zero noise. If you lubricate them properly they shouldn't make a peep. Mine are also 75a. That is a hair stiffer than the oem rubber. 90-95a is a good bit stiffer and might bring some road noise

            museum sig 2earl.jpg

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            • BenDemB
              BenDemB
              BenDem
              wrote on last edited by
              #13

              Good to know.

              Any idea how long the OEM bushings are supposed to last?

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              • EarlE
                EarlE
                Earl
                wrote on last edited by
                #14

                100,000 miles at best I would say. They are pretty soft too.

                museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                • BMWbenB
                  BMWbenB
                  BMWben
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #15

                  BenDem said:

                  I'm shooting for 4.  I'll know more about my plans once I find the source of some other noises (hopefully tonight).

                  I don't know what you were thinking but how would next Monday afternoon work for messing around with some bushings?

                  1446849910209930378394662425 (1).jpg

                  BMWCCA #499464

                  Current - 1995 540i/6 V 2.0 | Dead - 1995 540i/6 | Sold - 1995 318is

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • BenDemB
                    BenDemB
                    BenDem
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #16

                    Sorry, life kinda got away from me the past few weeks.   I still need to order my bushings.   They should be in middle of next week sometime

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                    • BMWbenB
                      BMWbenB
                      BMWben
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #17

                      I'm just throwing this out there but if you wanted to or would be able to we could do my bushings Monday evening. I have the bushings in my trunk I just don't have a place to do them in Milwaukee. Just an idea

                      1446849910209930378394662425 (1).jpg

                      BMWCCA #499464

                      Current - 1995 540i/6 V 2.0 | Dead - 1995 540i/6 | Sold - 1995 318is

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • B
                        B
                        bigjae1976
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #18

                        Did you get this done? I might be able to do them on a hydraulic press for you.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • BenDemB
                          BenDemB
                          BenDem
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #19

                          Just to update the thread.   I finally carved out some time, and replaced the bushings without removing subframe or the bolts using the techinques in the link I posted earlier.

                          I didn't take any pics of the process, but it was very straight forward.  The only think I'll add to the above is that if you need to replace the plate washers that sit on top of the bushings, you might have to remove the subframe bolts to install them.

                          So,  I've now got a homemade bushing puller thing that I'll happily loan out to whoever for the cost of shipping.  It took me about an hour to make the tool, but I was trying to be carefull to get as good a fit as reasonable without going totally anal-rententive.

                          I'll start a new thread about how I'd like the loaning process to go, and what other tools you'll need to do the job.

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                          • B
                            B
                            Boris3
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #20

                            Good to hear it went well! So here's a look at my passenger side rear subframe on the beater. Possible to replace what remains of this bushing without dropping the subframe? I'm not optimistic.

                            a2a4eduv.jpg

                            ydehu2yb.jpg

                            1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                            • BenDemB
                              BenDemB
                              BenDem
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #21

                              It might... My guess it would depend if the bushing is seized onto the bolt / frame of the car.  Then again, if it's not a vert, you could probably remove the bolts and then get a saw in there to remove whatever the tool didn't remove.

                              It's worth a shot... worst case, you'd just pull the subframe anyway.

                              But... If your subframe bushings are that bad, your trailing arm bushings are probably shot too.  You'd probably save time by removing the subframe and doing both jobs at once.

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                              • B
                                B
                                Boris3
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #22

                                Pm sent about borrowing the tool. Holding on to a little optimism that the bushings will come out with little drama. We'll see.

                                1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                                • B
                                  B
                                  Boris3
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #23

                                  Well borrowed Ben's tool, and no success for me. Puller and heat and all I accomplished was bending the outer metal lip of the subframe bushing. Short of pulling the subframe which I really don't have time or the inclination to do, any suggestions on options? I was able to knock out the long bolt. Thanks.

                                  1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                                  • jc43089J
                                    jc43089J
                                    jc43089
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #24

                                    It is a pain but I have used a drill bit to destroy as much of the rubber as I could to get the center of the bushing out and then using a sawzall to cut the outer sleeve so that it collapses on itself and falls out.  I did this when I replaced my e36 RTABs.

                                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                                    • B
                                      B
                                      Boris3
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #25

                                      Thanks. I used a drill and hole saw to clear most of the rubber. Metal center though looks to be stuck to the body. The outer sleeve is stuck to the subframe tube. Car is on jack stands so not enough height to use the sawzall. Any other suggestions ? Starting to see why folks drop the subframe to do this.

                                      1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                                      • jc43089J
                                        jc43089J
                                        jc43089
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #26

                                        The center should just be held in by the rubber.  Could you get a hacksaw in there?  The blades are much smaller.  As soon as the outer sleeve splits it will fall right out.

                                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • BenDemB
                                          BenDemB
                                          BenDem
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #27

                                          When I installed my new bushings, I put some anti-sieze on the top of the metal sleeve (on the bushing).  I think I remember seeing somewhere that they can get corrode to the frame?

                                          Maybe that's what happened to yours?

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