Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

[straight6pwr]

gilber33 said:

I know the holes are exactly in the middle. I did my best. Get off my back. 

i've seen worse from actual manufacturers these days.  i wish i would have saved the socket cap bolt that was sent as a kit with some cheap rear dog-bone arms for the e34. the hex opening in the head was like this: (photoshop representation)

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

i've seen worse from actual manufacturers these days.  i wish i would have saved the socket cap bolt that was sent as a kit with some cheap rear dog-bone arms for the e34. the hex opening in the head was like this: (photoshop representation)

That's hilarious. It would be entertaining to watch someone tighten one of those down with a drill.

[Jdesign]

That honestly just looks like condensation in the oil, but that could be the reflections too. Just run a really nice filter.

[KaiserRolls]

Jdesign said:

That honestly just looks like condensation in the oil, but that could be the reflections too. Just run a really nice filter.

Maybe remnants of assembly lube

[gilber33]

Feels like I got way more done than I really did. Wiring is so time consuming. 
 

New pressure switch with the factory plug removed for a universal two plug connector. Also, never knew that non insulated crimp connected was a thing. 

Aux fan temp switch plug spliced in since the other one had rotted apart. The wire gauge difference between the e30 and e36 is impressive  

The old r12 high pressure sensor grounded to itself. 

Got the gauge sender units all in. 

 

And lastly, took the oil filter apart. Looks pretty good to me. 
 

[straight6pwr]

smart ideas on those non-insulated crimps since you're just gonna tape over them anyways. 

you should try the heat shrink adhesive filled ones. life changers. even if you fubar the crimp they dont come apart, and there is no need for tape or shrink wrap after.

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

smart ideas on those non-insulated crimps since you're just gonna tape over them anyways. 

you should try the heat shrink adhesive filled ones. life changers. even if you fubar the crimp they dont come apart, and there is no need for tape or shrink wrap after.

Ugh. I was going to get some of the adhesive ones from Amazon but had a role of some heat shrink left over. I still used heat shrink on all of the crimps and the tape I'm using is more for a wire loom and cleanliness.

[The Full Banana]

Psh, non-insulated crimps with high-quality adhesive lined heat shrink over the crimps is the way to go. Insulated connectors are for the birds. Nice work, Gabe! Looks great.

Raychem heatshrink 4 lyfe

OEM++

[straight6pwr]

The Full Banana said:

Psh, non-insulated crimps with high-quality adhesive lined heat shrink over the crimps is the way to go. Insulated connectors are for the birds. Nice work, Gabe! Looks great.

Raychem heatshrink 4 lyfe

OEM++

i'd agree except:

[HipMF]

straight6pwr said:

i'd agree except:

Flagged.

[gilber33]

Wired in a plug for the gauge senders so the engine and body harness can be two separate things. 

Took out the front my suspension and gave it the Por15 treatment. I have new bearings and strut mounts for that. And once that’s back in the fenders can go back on. I’m very excited about that. 
 

Picked up this little tool cart from Amazon for $30 Prime. Outfitted it with a bottle opener and can holder. Helps keep me organized rather than spreading tools all over the floor. 
 

And my belt driven compressor is for sale if anyone is interested. Great for light projects but it wasn’t as strong as I wanted it when I was running an impact. Got the Sanborn for a good deal and it’s more powerful. Although now that I realized I can wire in a 220 outlet, this one may go as well. 
 

[straight6pwr]

that cart seems pretty solid, $30 seems like a steal.

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

that cart seems pretty solid, $30 seems like a steal.

It's great for $30. 

I know the top of the strut mounts get a dust cap, but is there anything for the bottoms? They're just exposed like this? 

[P_Roloff]

It would appear that there is a dust cover of sorts and then a washer on the underside according to this diagram.

[gilber33]

Thank you! When I removed them from the car they had the washer, but they did not have the dust cover.

[straight6pwr]

@P_Roloff is correct

check this video: at 4:10 he removes the top mount which someone failed to put the washer/dust cap under. you can see how gross the bearing is and at 4:20 you can see how badly the bottom of the bearing chewed grooves into the top spring plate. at 17:35 you can see him correctly installing the washer/dust cap on reassembly.

[gilber33]

I was hoping to reinstall everything tomorrow, but I guess I will need to hold off to order those. Oh well.

[straight6pwr]

gilber33 said:

I was hoping to reinstall everything tomorrow, but I guess I will need to hold off to order those. Oh well. 

another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.

[gilber33]

straight6pwr said:

another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.

Good idea. The bearings did look underpacked with grease.

[Jdesign]

straight6pwr said:

another tip: before you install, pack the top mount bearing with more grease if it seems inadequate on either the top or bottom.

Also, keep in mind if you mix types of grease it can cause chemical reactions that will potentially cause premature wear! Sounds dumb, but I worked in a bike shop for 10+ years, and I have personally witnessed countless times that mixed types of grease caused chemical reactions that ate through bearings, bearing races, and softer material components such as plastics and urethanes. I always thoroughly clean parts before I re-grease or add grease to them if I don't know the type of grease that was originally installed.  

http://knowhow.napaonline.com/greasy-situation-can-you-mix-grease/