WIBIMMERS

Moved the car to Milwaukee from Texas this past April. In the process of being turned into a track car. Still keeping it street legal for awhile since I have no space for a tow rig or trailer. You'll see me with SCCA at the Milwaukee Mile and BMWCCA at Road America.

Here is the spec sheet:

2004 M3, Imola Red

Engine/Drivetrain

Bimmerworld resonated race exhaust

Injen intake (going back to OEM)

UUC SSK + DSSR

Evolve Stage I software

Suspension & brakes

TC Kline x2 adj coilovers

Vorshlag camber plates

Adjustable front sway links

TMS rear adj control arms

RTAB limiters

Motion motorsports front engine cover

Stoptech 355mm/ST40 4 wheel BBK

Bimmerworld brake duct plates

Interior

Sabelt Racer Duo Seats

Schroth quick fit harnesses

VAC driver's side floor plate

Oil temp/water temp gauges

Wheels

Apex ARC8 18x9.5 et22 black wheels (street)

Apex ARC8 17x9.5 et35 anthracite wheels (track)

Here is a shot before it left Momentum BMW in Houston, TX (my sponsor)

The esses at the Circuit of the Americas

Inside wheel lift

Some sliding at Texas World Speedway

The Milwaukee Mile

Its under construction at the moment...

Top speed is around 130mph.
 
Here's a video...y'all missed out on some fun track time and excellent weather!

http://youtu.be/MiFevmr4Wc8

E36M3#215 said:

Seeing as to how your car is in pieces when is the next time I will see you on the track

 

Aug 21 at the Milwaukee Mile

Snap said:

Is all of the rear suspension/subframe aluminum?

The E30 subframe with diff and axles was quite the heavy monster to install without helpers.

Nope, the only aluminum is the upper control arms. The diff was pretty heavy but doable with one person. Just need some finesse and got repertoire of curse words.

someone said:

School me on locking down the vanos please.

The VANOS will develop a rattle...more annoying than potentially fatal. Most street cars will want to address this.

BUT...there are a couple of issues which are potentially fatal to the engine

1. Exhaust hub tabs break - a Besian oil pump disk may help

2. Cam bolts strip and back out - replace with updated OE bolts

3. OEM belt tensioner breaks - replace with OE part

4. High pressure oil line to VANOS fails - replace with Bimmerworld line

You can check #1 and #3 when you do a valve adjustment. #2 requires you to remove the VANOS.

The exhaust hub failure seems to be very hit and miss.

http://www.beisansystems.com/

Black E39 M5 S on I43 and then W on I94 until 84th.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tsweers89 said:

This is dumb advice. So say one control arm ball joint goes bad, your suppose to replace the other side as well? Please give me all your old parts when you do this. I'll use them when my car breaks.

OK. Well...I guess my 12 years of driving and maintaining E46s is telling me the wrong answer. But carrying 6 spare coils to the track has saved me a tow home twice. Just sayin'.

And when one control arm with a non replaceable ball joint goes bad...you actually are supposed to replace both sides.