WIBIMMERS

http://youtu.be/u6Cqlt5cHeE

Installed some exhaust wrap on the exhaust where it passes underneath he lower control arm and rear axle boot. Trying to prevent cooking the rubber. I used exhaust wrap ($50), 2 4" hose clamps and some aluminum tape (to prevent the wrap from unraveling. We'll see how it turns out.

Black E39 M5 S on I43 and then W on I94 until 84th.

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Obviously...before it starts. You can walk up but they charge more...

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jc43089 said:

I just checked to see if you could use an EMP/Stewart water pump, unfortunately it says it fits m50/52/54, but only s50/52.  I have one and it is very high quality.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=84&product_id=145

I had one in my 330...great unit. 80k miles and it looked brand new. Luckily the OEM components on the M3 hold up pretty good unlike the non-M E46s.

COOLING

First time I've been able to really tax the cooling system since I've done all of the upgrade...or decontenting. Right now, I've got an OE cooling system. The goal is to provide enough cooling that will keep temps in check (260 oil, 220 water) during a 20 minute HPDE session. The only upgrades are:

1. Deleted the aux and mech fan
2. Installed a SPAL fan controlled by the OE aux fan controller
3. Oil diverter valve
4. A/C deleted
5. 100% distilled water with 1/2 bottle of water wetter

Ambient temp was in the mid 80s and the humidity was atrocious. The OE oil gauge stayed right at 255 and the OE water gauge never went above the 2/3 dot. I forgot to monitor water temps in the OE cluster but I was at 180f at the end of my cool down lap. Pretty happy but I think I am still going to install a 25 row Setrab cooler mounted in front of the OE radiator. Then I will just replace the radiator and water pump (maybe) with an OE part. With the A/C out...I don't see much of a need to replace the radiator for an HPDE application.

BRAKE DUCTS

The seemed to work pretty well. I ran stoptech street pads instead of my usual SR34 race pads. The street pads did OK. They will usually overheat and then just have zero bite and generally suck. Last night I think the ducts kept the pads cool enough so they had a consistent feel throughout the night. No "OH S$@!!" moments!

Here's a video from last night at the Milwaukee Mile...really liking the Evolve tune! Finally it feels like it has a little power! I do need to replace my front tie rods...the are seized and won't adjust. My alignment, in general, is shiet. I have to look at my UUC DSSR...3rd and 4th is tricky to get into gear. I might have it backwards (not upside down). I think I can easily break 1:18 with an alignment and clean shifting.

http://youtu.be/vJf8YBMk50I

I've attended 4 of these so far. I love these because its a 15-20 min drive to the track from Milwaukee, drive, and home by 9pm. The track may be small but its fun and fast! You can get over 100mph on 3...maybe 4...sections on the track. The infield is tricky. Great people and tons of fun!

Register here!

https://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.dashboard/uidEvent/D9148411-DB31-02CF-97AB75A841EEAEA8/uidMember/4E7E0509-D3CF-61DD-85CD205CEDF33718#.VApZOCYo5es

Really? The list on Motorsportreg.com seems light...

The OE ducts have a similar route to the air filter so it shouldn't be a huge issue. Most of all this car isn't really driven on the street much.

Installed some brake ducts. Total cost...$85.

So I got some hose and flanges...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42150/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42142/overview/

I've had the BW backing plates on...I think they are about $100.

So I basically routed the hoses like everyone else does. The wheel is an Apex ARC8 18x9.5 et 22 wheel and clears the hose at full lock. I got dual outlets on the ducts so I'm using the driver's side as a cold air intake, not sure what I'm going to do with the extra one on the pass side.

So I basically zip tied the flange to the bumper opening. Ghetto? Maybe. Show car quality? Nope. Does it work? We'll see. Then I filled in the gaps with aluminum tape. I do want to plastic weld ABS into the gaps but this bumper is trashed so I'm just going to wait until replace the cover. I wouldn't do this to a DD but, IMO, fine for a track car. No need to spend $300 on a CF duct. $40 works fine.

Here's the cold air intake

A front end pic.

Yup. Spray painted red. Its a big waste of money but I got it used and cheap. Just make your own.

Who's going?

Installed a Momo steering wheel.

And some ricing...I meant racing stripes.

Installed a Momo steering wheel.

And some ricing...I meant racing stripes.

HipMF said:

Well if I'm in an e21, then this is almost certainly true.   With 110hp (if I'm lucky) I don't need to worry much about wheelspin.

Makes sense though. So the real problem is the body roll + MacPherson strut front suspension?

Its the dynamic camber change caused by the body roll that creates the issue.

So not even regular street cars? I don't see that happening for HPDEs...that would kill off their advanced groups and in turn kill instructor and racer development, a lot of which happens in the advanced run groups.

PCA might be able to get away with it but I don't see BMWCCA filling up advanced run groups with that policy.

Interested in the dyno and beer...as long as the dyno operator isn't drinking beer!

HipMF said:

This certainly seems to fly in the face of conventional wisdom. Not trying to nay-say but interested in learning more. Any more info on this? Sounds like a setup for someone whose more interested in putting power down coming out of the corner rather than carrying speed through the corner.

You can carry more speed at turn in and apex but if I'm on the throttle sooner then I'll be faster coming out of the corner. In many cases it means I'll be faster on the straight.  You want to be able to put power down in a RWD BMW. Braking and steering only scrub speed. Throttle makes you go faster. More throttle = more faster.

There are some assumptions in the conventional wisdom of car setup being used in that article. It does not take into account the dynamic camber change and its effect on toe...on the front and rear axle. The key to driving a fast BMW is reducing that dynamic camber change. Otherwise you'll tear up tires and just understeer through most corners. Which is why you want more front roll stiffness (reduce camber and toe change), more negative camber (maximize contact patch on turn in), and more front suspension travel (front engine car - more weight transfer underbraking).

It depends on what kind of fault you have. There are some BMW specific fault codes that the auto zone scanner won't read. I'd just buy INPA.

Brian. said:

The amount of times I've dropped the diff in my E28. I know this feeling all to well. I got my diff swaps down to an hour and a half though. By myself. That was pretty fun.

Nice!