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  4. M20 Turbo => M50 turbo fun.

M20 Turbo => M50 turbo fun.

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Members BMWs
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  • B
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    Blaine0002
    wrote on last edited by
    #161

    The Full Banana said:

    It's common practice in the turbo volvo world to run a factory head gasket and treat it like a fuse. Those who go the MLS Cometic approach (without a lot of time spent tuning on the dyno by a professional) often live to regret that decision.

    Maybe, I went Cometic to get a lower CR.

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    • The Full BananaT
      The Full BananaT
      The Full Banana
      wrote on last edited by
      #162

      The kool-aid man prefers Cometic gaskets 9 times out of 10.

      Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

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      • B
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        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #163

        The Full Banana said:

        The kool-aid man prefers Cometic gaskets 9 times out of 10.

        You seem to be the expert on this subject so I have a question for you. Can the kool-aid man bust through a wall made of Cometic gaskets?

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        • The Full BananaT
          The Full BananaT
          The Full Banana
          wrote on last edited by
          #164

          Snap Understeer said:

          You seem to be the expert on this subject so I have a question for you. Can the kool-aid man bust through a wall made of Cometic gaskets?

          OH YEAAAAAAAAAAAAH

          http://www.dxpnet.com/i.asp?f=http://www.icanhasinternets.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Kool-AidMan.jpeg

          :D

          To clarify: There is nothing wrong with cometic gaskets at all. They are great, but for a lot of people, they just aren't necessarily the best choice.

          Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

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          • B
            B
            B C
            wrote on last edited by
            #165

            lol , well played

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            • GunMetalGreyG
              GunMetalGreyG
              GunMetalGrey
              wrote on last edited by
              #166

              Why would they not be the best decision?

              People not understanding that a motor can only take so much boost?

              Sent from the future. Or my phone, who knows.

              ...

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              • R
                R
                Rowleym
                wrote on last edited by
                #167

                Yea but its kind of cheating when using a Mls to lower compression. A lot of the time people run them and think they can turn the boost up real high, and then they end up blowing it up because they don't have a proper tune. Proper tune and you are good to go! It's a great way to use pump gas. I'm quite stoked about this e85 thing. Absolutely no need for me to lower compression :D

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                sk8 or die

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                • R
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                  Rowleym
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #168

                  Brian said:

                  Go braided. Looks better. And the fuel rail, factory fuel rail *should* be fine. Just upgrade injectors/possibly get a higher bar FPR.

                  It doesn't matter to me if it looks good, I was just wondering if the rubber stuff performs as well. The 80# injectors will already be more than enough, I just need the rest of the fuel system to handle it!

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                  sk8 or die

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                  • Brian.B
                    Brian.B
                    Brian.
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #169

                    It's not cause they look good, although they do. braided lines perform better. and have less chance of kinking. and can hold higher pressure/temp.

                    instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                    • The Full BananaT
                      The Full BananaT
                      The Full Banana
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #170

                      Rowleym said:

                      they end up blowing it up because they don't have a proper tune. Proper tune and you are good to go!

                      This.

                      which is why I say that it's often a better choice for people to run a factory gasket if they are doing their own tuning and don't have either a lot of experience or a dyno.

                      Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

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                      • B
                        B
                        Blaine0002
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #171

                        The Full Banana said:

                        This.

                        which is why I say that it's often a better choice for people to run a factory gasket if they are doing their own tuning and don't have either a lot of experience or a dyno.

                        I guess i assumed that people wanted to do the job right 😕

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                        • The Full BananaT
                          The Full BananaT
                          The Full Banana
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #172

                          It's a lot cheaper to pop a gasket than to melt a piston or put a big hole in the side of the block.

                          Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

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                          • B
                            B
                            Blaine0002
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #173

                            The Full Banana said:

                            It's a lot cheaper to pop a gasket than to melt a piston or put a big hole in the side of the block.

                            Then dont do that :o

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                            • B
                              B
                              Blaine0002
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #174

                              and if you're talking about boosting, you probably shouldn't even include the word cheap in the sentence anyways.

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                              • R
                                R
                                Rowleym
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #175

                                Haha. Right? ^

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                                sk8 or die

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                                • R
                                  R
                                  Rowleym
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #176

                                  Anyone have any thoughts on what suspension I should run? Looking to spend like 800

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                                  sk8 or die

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                                  • B
                                    B
                                    B C
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #177

                                    You'd have to list some goals/intentions to pick it out properly.

                                    Are you going for looks only, handling only, handling/ride comfort, handling/looks, etc.

                                    Sway bars are a great upgrade but definitely the wrong place to start. They don't make as big of a difference as one would think, and IMO should be picked after the rest of the suspension is chosen so you can decide on how much you want to change the under/oversteer characteristics of the car.

                                    One thing is for sure, replace all of the suspension rubber bits: Sway bar bushings, End Links, control arm bushings, subframe mounts, trailing arm bushings, strut and shock mounts. You would be surprised at how much these pieces matter. The M3 offset control arm bushings (or any polyurethane variant with an offset hole) is a must IMO for a great handling E30. The offset bushings increase caster, which increases dynamic camber. You dont need to run as much static camber to get the benefits camber offers since negative camber will increase with steering angle. If you want big wide wheels you may run into some rubbing issues with offset bushings that you wouldnt have otherwise.

                                    You probably want a coilover setup since springs are cheapish and available in lots of different rates

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                                    • R
                                      R
                                      Rowleym
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #178

                                      ^thanks for that. Yea definitely coils. This car is mainly for drifting/sometime autox. I'm thinking 10k/12k bc coilovers or something looking to spend about a grand. I do have fabrication skills if necessary too. This car is also a weekend cruiser if I want to. Looks are kind of an issue too. But not really. Any coil will be perfectly low for me. I don't really care about ride quality. I just want them to preform well.

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                                      sk8 or die

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                                      • B
                                        B
                                        B C
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #179

                                        Something that I have been working on over the last year or so (maybe a few minutes every month in my free time) is determining the roll-centers and CG of the car.

                                        The distance between the CG and the roll center (both imaginary points in space) is called the roll-couple. You want the roll couple as short as possible. The unfortunate truth about lowering cars is that with a typical suspension design, the roll center changes faster than the CG does. In short, the larger the roll-couple distance, the stiffer springs and sway bars you need to control body roll. If you have heard anyone ever mention the idea of RAISING a car to get optimal handling then this has to do with taking advantage of the roll couple. A large roll-couple is not the end of the world but if you can have a short roll-couple and softer springs and equal handling to someone running very stiff springs, then life becomes peachy. Softer springs are a good thing if you can get away with them. The tire will follow the road variations more precisely which improves your contact patch and weight transfer will be more predictable and less prone to snap oversteer. There is much more to it though.

                                        If you have been in a newer BMW or Porsche and were blown away by the way the car handled, yet had a nice ride, then you have experienced a well-engineered suspension setup which takes roll-couple into serious consideration. Again, there are certainly other factors but if you are able to shorten the roll couple as much as possible, it puts you in a much better position to have BOTH amazing handling and soft enough springs for good road compliance.

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                                        • 240sxguy2
                                          240sxguy2
                                          240sxguy
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #180

                                          Rubber lines are fine. Braided lines get dirty and look like shit. They are also a goddamn nightmare to assemble. I run russell (or whomever) push lok fittings and line. It sounds like you don't know much about fueling and need to start doing more homework about it.

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