M20 Turbo => M50 turbo fun.
-
Rowleym said:
Alright for sure. Would you just run rubber lines? Like those high pressure efi ones? Or would you do braided? Also, do you think i need a new fuel rail? This fuel thing is really getting me.
Go braided. Looks better. And the fuel rail, factory fuel rail *should* be fine. Just upgrade injectors/possibly get a higher bar FPR.
-
The Full Banana said:
It's common practice in the turbo volvo world to run a factory head gasket and treat it like a fuse. Those who go the MLS Cometic approach (without a lot of time spent tuning on the dyno by a professional) often live to regret that decision.
Maybe, I went Cometic to get a lower CR.
-
The kool-aid man prefers Cometic gaskets 9 times out of 10.
-
Snap Understeer said:
You seem to be the expert on this subject so I have a question for you. Can the kool-aid man bust through a wall made of Cometic gaskets?
OH YEAAAAAAAAAAAAH
To clarify: There is nothing wrong with cometic gaskets at all. They are great, but for a lot of people, they just aren't necessarily the best choice.
-
Why would they not be the best decision?
People not understanding that a motor can only take so much boost?
Sent from the future. Or my phone, who knows.
-
Yea but its kind of cheating when using a Mls to lower compression. A lot of the time people run them and think they can turn the boost up real high, and then they end up blowing it up because they don't have a proper tune. Proper tune and you are good to go! It's a great way to use pump gas. I'm quite stoked about this e85 thing. Absolutely no need for me to lower compression
sk8 or die
-
Brian said:
Go braided. Looks better. And the fuel rail, factory fuel rail *should* be fine. Just upgrade injectors/possibly get a higher bar FPR.
It doesn't matter to me if it looks good, I was just wondering if the rubber stuff performs as well. The 80# injectors will already be more than enough, I just need the rest of the fuel system to handle it!
sk8 or die
-
Rowleym said:
they end up blowing it up because they don't have a proper tune. Proper tune and you are good to go!
This.
which is why I say that it's often a better choice for people to run a factory gasket if they are doing their own tuning and don't have either a lot of experience or a dyno.
-
The Full Banana said:
This.
which is why I say that it's often a better choice for people to run a factory gasket if they are doing their own tuning and don't have either a lot of experience or a dyno.
I guess i assumed that people wanted to do the job right
![😕](https://wibimmers.com/assets/plugins/nodebb-plugin-emoji/emoji/android/1f615.png?v=6c9209168ce ":\")
-
It's a lot cheaper to pop a gasket than to melt a piston or put a big hole in the side of the block.
-
The Full Banana said:
It's a lot cheaper to pop a gasket than to melt a piston or put a big hole in the side of the block.
Then dont do that
-
and if you're talking about boosting, you probably shouldn't even include the word cheap in the sentence anyways.
-
You'd have to list some goals/intentions to pick it out properly.
Are you going for looks only, handling only, handling/ride comfort, handling/looks, etc.
Sway bars are a great upgrade but definitely the wrong place to start. They don't make as big of a difference as one would think, and IMO should be picked after the rest of the suspension is chosen so you can decide on how much you want to change the under/oversteer characteristics of the car.
One thing is for sure, replace all of the suspension rubber bits: Sway bar bushings, End Links, control arm bushings, subframe mounts, trailing arm bushings, strut and shock mounts. You would be surprised at how much these pieces matter. The M3 offset control arm bushings (or any polyurethane variant with an offset hole) is a must IMO for a great handling E30. The offset bushings increase caster, which increases dynamic camber. You dont need to run as much static camber to get the benefits camber offers since negative camber will increase with steering angle. If you want big wide wheels you may run into some rubbing issues with offset bushings that you wouldnt have otherwise.
You probably want a coilover setup since springs are cheapish and available in lots of different rates
-
^thanks for that. Yea definitely coils. This car is mainly for drifting/sometime autox. I'm thinking 10k/12k bc coilovers or something looking to spend about a grand. I do have fabrication skills if necessary too. This car is also a weekend cruiser if I want to. Looks are kind of an issue too. But not really. Any coil will be perfectly low for me. I don't really care about ride quality. I just want them to preform well.
sk8 or die
-
Something that I have been working on over the last year or so (maybe a few minutes every month in my free time) is determining the roll-centers and CG of the car.
The distance between the CG and the roll center (both imaginary points in space) is called the roll-couple. You want the roll couple as short as possible. The unfortunate truth about lowering cars is that with a typical suspension design, the roll center changes faster than the CG does. In short, the larger the roll-couple distance, the stiffer springs and sway bars you need to control body roll. If you have heard anyone ever mention the idea of RAISING a car to get optimal handling then this has to do with taking advantage of the roll couple. A large roll-couple is not the end of the world but if you can have a short roll-couple and softer springs and equal handling to someone running very stiff springs, then life becomes peachy. Softer springs are a good thing if you can get away with them. The tire will follow the road variations more precisely which improves your contact patch and weight transfer will be more predictable and less prone to snap oversteer. There is much more to it though.
If you have been in a newer BMW or Porsche and were blown away by the way the car handled, yet had a nice ride, then you have experienced a well-engineered suspension setup which takes roll-couple into serious consideration. Again, there are certainly other factors but if you are able to shorten the roll couple as much as possible, it puts you in a much better position to have BOTH amazing handling and soft enough springs for good road compliance.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login