M20 Turbo => M50 turbo fun.
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Brian said:
Go braided. Looks better. And the fuel rail, factory fuel rail *should* be fine. Just upgrade injectors/possibly get a higher bar FPR.
It doesn't matter to me if it looks good, I was just wondering if the rubber stuff performs as well. The 80# injectors will already be more than enough, I just need the rest of the fuel system to handle it!
sk8 or die
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Rowleym said:
they end up blowing it up because they don't have a proper tune. Proper tune and you are good to go!
This.
which is why I say that it's often a better choice for people to run a factory gasket if they are doing their own tuning and don't have either a lot of experience or a dyno.
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The Full Banana said:
This.
which is why I say that it's often a better choice for people to run a factory gasket if they are doing their own tuning and don't have either a lot of experience or a dyno.
I guess i assumed that people wanted to do the job right
![😕](https://wibimmers.com/assets/plugins/nodebb-plugin-emoji/emoji/android/1f615.png?v=6c9209168ce ":\")
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It's a lot cheaper to pop a gasket than to melt a piston or put a big hole in the side of the block.
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The Full Banana said:
It's a lot cheaper to pop a gasket than to melt a piston or put a big hole in the side of the block.
Then dont do that
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and if you're talking about boosting, you probably shouldn't even include the word cheap in the sentence anyways.
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You'd have to list some goals/intentions to pick it out properly.
Are you going for looks only, handling only, handling/ride comfort, handling/looks, etc.
Sway bars are a great upgrade but definitely the wrong place to start. They don't make as big of a difference as one would think, and IMO should be picked after the rest of the suspension is chosen so you can decide on how much you want to change the under/oversteer characteristics of the car.
One thing is for sure, replace all of the suspension rubber bits: Sway bar bushings, End Links, control arm bushings, subframe mounts, trailing arm bushings, strut and shock mounts. You would be surprised at how much these pieces matter. The M3 offset control arm bushings (or any polyurethane variant with an offset hole) is a must IMO for a great handling E30. The offset bushings increase caster, which increases dynamic camber. You dont need to run as much static camber to get the benefits camber offers since negative camber will increase with steering angle. If you want big wide wheels you may run into some rubbing issues with offset bushings that you wouldnt have otherwise.
You probably want a coilover setup since springs are cheapish and available in lots of different rates
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^thanks for that. Yea definitely coils. This car is mainly for drifting/sometime autox. I'm thinking 10k/12k bc coilovers or something looking to spend about a grand. I do have fabrication skills if necessary too. This car is also a weekend cruiser if I want to. Looks are kind of an issue too. But not really. Any coil will be perfectly low for me. I don't really care about ride quality. I just want them to preform well.
sk8 or die
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Something that I have been working on over the last year or so (maybe a few minutes every month in my free time) is determining the roll-centers and CG of the car.
The distance between the CG and the roll center (both imaginary points in space) is called the roll-couple. You want the roll couple as short as possible. The unfortunate truth about lowering cars is that with a typical suspension design, the roll center changes faster than the CG does. In short, the larger the roll-couple distance, the stiffer springs and sway bars you need to control body roll. If you have heard anyone ever mention the idea of RAISING a car to get optimal handling then this has to do with taking advantage of the roll couple. A large roll-couple is not the end of the world but if you can have a short roll-couple and softer springs and equal handling to someone running very stiff springs, then life becomes peachy. Softer springs are a good thing if you can get away with them. The tire will follow the road variations more precisely which improves your contact patch and weight transfer will be more predictable and less prone to snap oversteer. There is much more to it though.
If you have been in a newer BMW or Porsche and were blown away by the way the car handled, yet had a nice ride, then you have experienced a well-engineered suspension setup which takes roll-couple into serious consideration. Again, there are certainly other factors but if you are able to shorten the roll couple as much as possible, it puts you in a much better position to have BOTH amazing handling and soft enough springs for good road compliance.
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Rubber lines are fine. Braided lines get dirty and look like shit. They are also a goddamn nightmare to assemble. I run russell (or whomever) push lok fittings and line. It sounds like you don't know much about fueling and need to start doing more homework about it.
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Snap Understeer said:
Something that I have been working on over the last year or so (maybe a few minutes every month in my free time) is determining the roll-centers and CG of the car.
The distance between the CG and the roll couple (both imaginary points in space) is called the roll-couple. You want the roll couple as short as possible. The unfortunate truth about lowering cars is that with a typical suspension design, the roll center changes faster than the CG does. In short, the larger the roll-couple distance, the stiffer springs and sway bars you need to control body roll. If you have heard anyone ever mention the idea of RAISING a car to get optimal handling then this has to do with taking advantage of the roll couple. A large roll-couple is not the end of the world but if you can have a short roll-couple and softer springs and equal handling to someone running very stiff springs, then life becomes peachy. Softer springs are a good thing if you can get away with them. The tire will follow the road variations more precisely which improves your contact patch and weight transfer will be more predictable and less prone to snap oversteer. There is much more to it though.
If you have been in a newer BMW or Porsche and were blown away by the way the car handled, yet had a nice ride, then you have experienced a well-engineered suspension setup which takes roll-couple into serious consideration. Again, there are certainly other factors but if you are able to shorten the roll couple as much as possible, it puts you in a much better position to have BOTH amazing handling and soft enough springs for good road compliance.
Why do all drift cars slam the crap out of the car then? I know what you are saying is the truth, but I was just wondering why they do it. You are my hero by the way.
sk8 or die
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It lowers the center of gravity, significantly. BUT, if we narrow down the vehicle further to lets say an S13 chassis, Coupe. Because hatch's are gay as fuck. They change LCA's, UCA's RUCA/LUCA's, tie rods, everything. Everything becomes aftermarket suspensionwise, and is 110% adjustable, and you can get mad tight steering lock like this:
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Rowleym said:
Why do all drift cars slam the crap out of the car then? I know what you are saying is the truth, but I was just wondering why they do it. You are my hero by the way.
If someone slammed a drift car for anything but style, it would be to lower the CG and reduce the chance of the car "tripping" if it caught grip while going sideways and flipping the car. I would have to believe that style is the driving factor in it all since drifting from a spectators standpoint is all about style.
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Snap Understeer said:
If someone slammed a drift car for anything but style, it would be to lower the CG and reduce the chance of the car "tripping" if it caught grip while going sideways and flipping the car. I would have to believe that style is the driving factor in it all since drifting from a spectators standpoint is all about style.
This basically, Drifting originated in Japan, if you ever heard anything about japan, it's all about standing out. Drifting was always about being flashy, low and loud. Go to Japan, any car you ever see that's modified, is millimeter(s) off the ground. Granted their roads allow it. It's mainly for show, but it also serves the purpose of lowering CG, and the entire suspension components are adjustable to a ridiculous degree.
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Rowleym said:
My friend can make me custom LCA's, and I'm getting the e36 rack for a better lock, and I'm using spacers. It should be decent without customs control arms, but eventually I would like to do that. Just need to learn more for dimensions.
Have fun with that R&D. Anyone can make RUCA/LUCA/RCA/UCA's. But they need to be able to take a pounding. Also, don't use spacers to get better lock. That shit will fail catastrophically.
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