Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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thats hot
what kind of insulation does your garage have?
Walls and ceiling are both insulated and drywalled . I don’t remember the R value, but it was an average/common one. And the overhead door is insulated.
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Hey guys. I drained the oil last night to work on the gauge senders and my oil has this metal “wave” in it. This is the third time the oil has been drained and maybe 500 miles on the engine rebuild. What are your thoughts on it? Tom recommended cutting the oil filter in half and will do that tomorrow night. I have a magnetic drain plug and it had sole residue on it, but nothing more, maybe less, than my previous cars always had on their drain plugs.
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Option 1: post this up on www.bobistheoilguy.com and walk away with PTSD
Option 2: use a high quality oil filter and send a sample in to Blackstone during your next oil change.
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Option 1: post this up on www.bobistheoilguy.com and walk away with PTSD
Option 2: use a high quality oil filter and send a sample in to Blackstone during your next oil change.
I've read posts on Bob's forum and I have no interest posting there. lol.
I was gonig to check the oil this morning to see if the stuff was magnetic or not and it was gone. So I'm wondering if this was some weird froth or something? I don't know. I was freaked out given I just rebuilt the engine and it was my first time. The 20w50 oil in 20-30* is very, very thick, so I couldn't imagine that if it was tiny metal dust that it would have sunk.
Well, besides the oil, last night I got the coolant and oil filter housing bolt tapped for the senders. The bimmerheads oil pressure sender adapter had the hole tapped on the wrong side. When I screwed it into the block, their port was always facing the block. So I had to drill and tap a hole on the other side and then ordered some 1/8npt plugs.
I know the holes are exactly in the middle. I did my best. Get off my back.
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I know the holes are exactly in the middle. I did my best. Get off my back.
i've seen worse from actual manufacturers these days. i wish i would have saved the socket cap bolt that was sent as a kit with some cheap rear dog-bone arms for the e34. the hex opening in the head was like this: (photoshop representation)
Dan
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i've seen worse from actual manufacturers these days. i wish i would have saved the socket cap bolt that was sent as a kit with some cheap rear dog-bone arms for the e34. the hex opening in the head was like this: (photoshop representation)
That's hilarious. It would be entertaining to watch someone tighten one of those down with a drill.
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That honestly just looks like condensation in the oil, but that could be the reflections too. Just run a really nice filter.
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That honestly just looks like condensation in the oil, but that could be the reflections too. Just run a really nice filter.
Maybe remnants of assembly lube
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Feels like I got way more done than I really did. Wiring is so time consuming.
New pressure switch with the factory plug removed for a universal two plug connector. Also, never knew that non insulated crimp connected was a thing.
Aux fan temp switch plug spliced in since the other one had rotted apart. The wire gauge difference between the e30 and e36 is impressive
The old r12 high pressure sensor grounded to itself.
Got the gauge sender units all in.
And lastly, took the oil filter apart. Looks pretty good to me.
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smart ideas on those non-insulated crimps since you're just gonna tape over them anyways.
you should try the heat shrink adhesive filled ones. life changers. even if you fubar the crimp they dont come apart, and there is no need for tape or shrink wrap after.
Dan
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smart ideas on those non-insulated crimps since you're just gonna tape over them anyways.
you should try the heat shrink adhesive filled ones. life changers. even if you fubar the crimp they dont come apart, and there is no need for tape or shrink wrap after.
Ugh. I was going to get some of the adhesive ones from Amazon but had a role of some heat shrink left over. I still used heat shrink on all of the crimps and the tape I'm using is more for a wire loom and cleanliness.
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Psh, non-insulated crimps with high-quality adhesive lined heat shrink over the crimps is the way to go. Insulated connectors are for the birds. Nice work, Gabe! Looks great.
Raychem heatshrink 4 lyfe
OEM++
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Psh, non-insulated crimps with high-quality adhesive lined heat shrink over the crimps is the way to go. Insulated connectors are for the birds. Nice work, Gabe! Looks great.
Raychem heatshrink 4 lyfe
OEM++
i'd agree except:
Dan
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Wired in a plug for the gauge senders so the engine and body harness can be two separate things.
Took out the front my suspension and gave it the Por15 treatment. I have new bearings and strut mounts for that. And once that’s back in the fenders can go back on. I’m very excited about that.
Picked up this little tool cart from Amazon for $30 Prime. Outfitted it with a bottle opener and can holder. Helps keep me organized rather than spreading tools all over the floor.
And my belt driven compressor is for sale if anyone is interested. Great for light projects but it wasn’t as strong as I wanted it when I was running an impact. Got the Sanborn for a good deal and it’s more powerful. Although now that I realized I can wire in a 220 outlet, this one may go as well.
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that cart seems pretty solid, $30 seems like a steal.
Dan
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that cart seems pretty solid, $30 seems like a steal.
It's great for $30.
I know the top of the strut mounts get a dust cap, but is there anything for the bottoms? They're just exposed like this?
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@P_Roloff is correct
check this video: at 4:10 he removes the top mount which someone failed to put the washer/dust cap under. you can see how gross the bearing is and at 4:20 you can see how badly the bottom of the bearing chewed grooves into the top spring plate. at 17:35 you can see him correctly installing the washer/dust cap on reassembly.
Dan
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