Joined the Club Today
-
Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.
The garagistic part looks like a 'meh' solution to replacing that bushing, but I'm biased and have had nothing but trouble with their products. Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one:
-
Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one
This ^
FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.
-
This ^
FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.
Just ordered it through @patsbimmer1
I also purchased a stage 1 clutch kit through grip force. Bought a lot of seals, tie rods, and other things that I wanted to replace.
There should be a good amount replaced on the car by the time it gets going.
-
@SteelBlue i went with stage 2
-
Anyone break a trans bolt head before? Still a good amount of the head left on the bolt, however, all of the hex portion is gone so theres really no way to get a socket on. I've heard using one of those reverse threaded/stripped bolt doodads might do the trick. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue before. The bolt in question is the large one at about 11 o'clock if you were looking at the trans from the rear. It has the exposed threads at the backside which makes me think I could maybe cut the head of the bolt off and then thread two nuts on the exposed threading and loosen it that way? Don't want to make a hasty decision.
First big mechanical issue in this process, many more to come I presume.
-
No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks
Rest of them broke loose fine. This one is the straggler holding it on. Talking with @MPW3RLee, might cut the head off to pull the trans off and then work the rest of the bolt that remains with some heat and vice grip. Or do some other shenanigans to get it out.
Could be worse, trans could be still in the car and could have broken it.
-
How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat
A good amount. That was my thought for getting it out.
-
+2 to cutting it off
-
+3 cut off head, remove trans, heat slightly, vise grips/pipe wrench. this will also give you the advantage of being able to turn the remaining bolt in both directions. tightening it maybe be easier than loosening, since the corrosion is mostly on the threads on the engine side.
Dan
-
Appreciate the advice friends. Cutting the head off the bolt it is.
My parents were generous enough to let me use the third stall of the garage to store this thing. Main reason being that the third stall is blocked by the boat that parked in the driveway so the third stall is just where misc shit got put(rider mower, trailer, etc). Forced us to organize and clean up the space which will help when it comes time to put the motor in. Gonna make life so much easier having the car at home and not on the other side of town. Having my tools, electricity, and plumbing will be very convenient.
Dollied the car home yesterday with the help of a buddy. Gave it a quick pressure wash to get some of the main gunk off the car. Will be doing a full cut and polish like I did on the last E30 once the car gets closer to being road ready. Wanted to get right to work so the low hanging fruit was the coil overs, the rears in particular. Don't have the hub centric rings, but mounted the wheels to get an idea...this is gonna be spicy. Might be able to add a 5 or 10 mm spacer in the rear with a little fender rolling.
Next step is getting the front coils and the ZF rack installed. Along with the other things that need to be done before the motor can go in(brake booster relocation, fire wall clearancing for the steering column, AC component removal and other unnecessary things in the bay).
Just need to drop the diff in the M3 and then I can get that car removed from the storage unit. S52 can't leave the unit until the car is gone because of how narrow the unit is unfortunately.
-
Would have liked to have made more progress tonight than I did, being that it wasn't 100 degrees out and 100% percent humidity, but something is better than nothing. Wanted to get the front coils in today, was set back by the lower control arm ball joints. Driver side nut won't come off, passenger side stud is stuck in the knuckle.
Driver side nut spins with the ball joint stud. Thought the trick was to put a jack under it to apply pressure, no dice. I'm not sure what to do for this one. I'll have to do some more research.
Passenger side nut off, but I'm having difficulty removing it from the knuckle. Hoped I could pull the strut out of the strut tower and then I could pull it out of the knuckle, but I can't get it low enough to clear the top.
Progress I did make was getting all of the A/C stuff out of the engine bay. For the cruise control module, can I just cut the line close to the firewall? I'm assuming it runs up through the dash, not sure how much of a pain it is to pull it out from there.
-
I've always had luck with a balljoint fork and a big hammer, but it'll probably ruin the rubber boots
This if you're just replacing the full control arm anyway.
The Harbor Freight ball joint separator works on the outer instead of the fork if you want to save the boot.
Re stuck nut: The jack under the ball joint trick works to stop the spinning but it takes a lot of pressure. Jack it up until it stops spinning (it might lift the car a bit). If the nut is rusted on solid then penetrant/heat and if that fails cut it off.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login