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Joined the Club Today

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  • AsparagusMikeA
    AsparagusMikeA
    AsparagusMike
    wrote on last edited by
    #67

    m42b32 said:

    Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one

    This ^

    FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.

    1 Reply Last reply
    2
    • SteelBlueS
      SteelBlueS
      SteelBlue
      wrote on last edited by
      #68

      AsparagusMike said:

      This ^

      FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.

      Just ordered it through @patsbimmer1

      I also purchased a stage 1 clutch kit through grip force. Bought a lot of seals, tie rods, and other things that I wanted to replace.

      There should be a good amount replaced on the car by the time it gets going.

      1 Reply Last reply
      2
      • KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRolls
        wrote on last edited by
        #69

        @SteelBlue i went with stage 2

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • SteelBlueS
          SteelBlueS
          SteelBlue
          wrote on last edited by
          #70

          Anyone break a trans bolt head before? Still a good amount of the head left on the bolt, however, all of the hex portion is gone so theres really no way to get a socket on. I've heard using one of those reverse threaded/stripped bolt doodads might do the trick. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue before. The bolt in question is the large one at about 11 o'clock if you were looking at the trans from the rear. It has the exposed threads at the backside which makes me think I could maybe cut the head of the bolt off and then thread two nuts on the exposed threading and loosen it that way? Don't want to make a hasty decision.

          First big mechanical issue in this process, many more to come I presume.

          NdqbWci.png

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • YoungCRY
            YoungCRY
            YoungCR
            wrote on last edited by
            #71

            No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks

            Chris Young
            BMWCCA #458972
            1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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            0
            • SteelBlueS
              SteelBlueS
              SteelBlue
              wrote on last edited by
              #72

              YoungCR said:

              No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks

              Rest of them broke loose fine. This one is the straggler holding it on. Talking with @MPW3RLee, might cut the head off to pull the trans off and then work the rest of the bolt that remains with some heat and vice grip. Or do some other shenanigans to get it out.

              Could be worse, trans could be still in the car and could have broken it.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • ChrisOC
                ChrisOC
                ChrisO
                wrote on last edited by
                #73

                How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat

                thin-nut-250x250.jpg

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                • SteelBlueS
                  SteelBlueS
                  SteelBlue
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #74

                  ChrisO said:

                  How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat

                  thin-nut-250x250.jpg 

                  A good amount. That was my thought for getting it out.

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • m42b32M
                    m42b32M
                    m42b32
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #75

                    If you have access to a welder, you can weld a bolt to the head like this:

                    fdc6f107.jpg

                    Then you can get a proper socket on it and use an impact to get it out. The heat from the welder can help break it loose too

                    1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #76

                      I would just cut it off and there will be plenty of the remaining bolt exposed after the transmission is off to deal with removing it.  You already need a new bolt anyway.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRolls
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #77

                        +2 to cutting it off

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • B
                          B
                          B C
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #78

                          Yes, I had one of the top two bolts rounded off on my car when i was doing the trans swap. ended up pulling the whole engine with the trans and using the hammer-on type bolt extractor. worked real well

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • straight6pwrS
                            straight6pwrS
                            straight6pwr
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #79

                            +3 cut off head, remove trans, heat slightly, vise grips/pipe wrench. this will also give you the advantage of being able to turn the remaining bolt in both directions. tightening it maybe be easier than loosening, since the corrosion is mostly on the threads on the engine side.

                            Dan
                            yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • YoungCRY
                              YoungCRY
                              YoungCR
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #80

                              With the trans off you could also heat cylce the bolt with a torch and spraying water too.

                              Chris Young
                              BMWCCA #458972
                              1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • SteelBlueS
                                SteelBlueS
                                SteelBlue
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #81

                                Appreciate the advice friends. Cutting the head off the bolt it is.

                                My parents were generous enough to let me use the third stall of the garage to store this thing. Main reason being that the third stall is blocked by the boat that parked in the driveway so the third stall is just where misc shit got put(rider mower, trailer, etc). Forced us to organize and clean up the space which will help when it comes time to put the motor in. Gonna make life so much easier having the car at home and not on the other side of town. Having my tools, electricity, and plumbing will be very convenient. 

                                6c5MaFO.jpg

                                Dollied the car home yesterday with the help of a buddy. Gave it a quick pressure wash to get some of the main gunk off the car. Will be doing a full cut and polish like I did on the last E30 once the car gets closer to being road ready. Wanted to get right to work so the low hanging fruit was the coil overs, the rears in particular. Don't have the hub centric rings, but mounted the wheels to get an idea...this is gonna be spicy. Might be able to add a 5 or 10 mm spacer in the rear with a little fender rolling.

                                Ev9Smc2.jpg

                                YwHVexM.jpg

                                Next step is getting the front coils and the ZF rack installed. Along with the other things that need to be done before the motor can go in(brake booster relocation, fire wall clearancing for the steering column, AC component removal and other unnecessary things in the bay).

                                Just need to drop the diff in the M3 and then I can get that car removed from the storage unit. S52 can't leave the unit until the car is gone because of how narrow the unit is unfortunately.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                4
                                • SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlue
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #82

                                  Would have liked to have made more progress tonight than I did, being that it wasn't 100 degrees out and 100% percent humidity, but something is better than nothing. Wanted to get the front coils in today, was set back by the lower control arm ball joints. Driver side nut won't come off, passenger side stud is stuck in the knuckle.

                                  MIgp0ic.jpg?1

                                  Driver side nut spins with the ball joint stud. Thought the trick was to put a jack under it to apply pressure, no dice. I'm not sure what to do for this one. I'll have to do some more research.

                                  gSLIieq.jpg

                                  Passenger side nut off, but I'm having difficulty removing it from the knuckle. Hoped I could pull the strut out of the strut tower and then I could pull it out of the knuckle, but I can't get it low enough to clear the top.

                                  Progress I did make was getting all of the A/C stuff out of the engine bay. For the cruise control module, can I just cut the line close to the firewall? I'm assuming it runs up through the dash, not sure how much of a pain it is to pull it out from there.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • ChrisOC
                                    ChrisOC
                                    ChrisO
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #83

                                    I've always had luck with a balljoint fork and a big hammer, but it'll probably ruin the rubber boots

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • B
                                      B
                                      Boris3
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #84

                                      ChrisO said:

                                      I've always had luck with a balljoint fork and a big hammer, but it'll probably ruin the rubber boots

                                      This if you're just replacing the full control arm anyway.

                                      The Harbor Freight ball joint separator works on the outer instead of the fork if you want to save the boot. 

                                      Re stuck nut: The jack under the ball joint trick works to stop the spinning but it takes a lot of pressure. Jack it up until it stops spinning (it might lift the car a bit). If the nut is rusted on solid then penetrant/heat and if that fails cut it off.

                                      1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • EarlE
                                        EarlE
                                        Earl
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #85

                                        The thing that will get that off is heat, penetrating oil, and an impact. You may have to run the nut on and then off a few times to get it to go. The other side with the stuck nut needs heat and you need a lot bigger hammer lol

                                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • jc43089J
                                          jc43089J
                                          jc43089
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #86

                                          FYI on the cruise control, are you removing it or what?  The cable doesn't go through the firewall, it loops near the fusebox and goes go the throttle body.  Unless you are talking about something else?

                                          Or is the e30 cruise control totally different?  Maybe don't pay attention to me ;)

                                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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