Joined the Club Today
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No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks
Rest of them broke loose fine. This one is the straggler holding it on. Talking with @MPW3RLee, might cut the head off to pull the trans off and then work the rest of the bolt that remains with some heat and vice grip. Or do some other shenanigans to get it out.
Could be worse, trans could be still in the car and could have broken it.
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How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat
A good amount. That was my thought for getting it out.
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+2 to cutting it off
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+3 cut off head, remove trans, heat slightly, vise grips/pipe wrench. this will also give you the advantage of being able to turn the remaining bolt in both directions. tightening it maybe be easier than loosening, since the corrosion is mostly on the threads on the engine side.
Dan
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Appreciate the advice friends. Cutting the head off the bolt it is.
My parents were generous enough to let me use the third stall of the garage to store this thing. Main reason being that the third stall is blocked by the boat that parked in the driveway so the third stall is just where misc shit got put(rider mower, trailer, etc). Forced us to organize and clean up the space which will help when it comes time to put the motor in. Gonna make life so much easier having the car at home and not on the other side of town. Having my tools, electricity, and plumbing will be very convenient.
Dollied the car home yesterday with the help of a buddy. Gave it a quick pressure wash to get some of the main gunk off the car. Will be doing a full cut and polish like I did on the last E30 once the car gets closer to being road ready. Wanted to get right to work so the low hanging fruit was the coil overs, the rears in particular. Don't have the hub centric rings, but mounted the wheels to get an idea...this is gonna be spicy. Might be able to add a 5 or 10 mm spacer in the rear with a little fender rolling.
Next step is getting the front coils and the ZF rack installed. Along with the other things that need to be done before the motor can go in(brake booster relocation, fire wall clearancing for the steering column, AC component removal and other unnecessary things in the bay).
Just need to drop the diff in the M3 and then I can get that car removed from the storage unit. S52 can't leave the unit until the car is gone because of how narrow the unit is unfortunately.
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Would have liked to have made more progress tonight than I did, being that it wasn't 100 degrees out and 100% percent humidity, but something is better than nothing. Wanted to get the front coils in today, was set back by the lower control arm ball joints. Driver side nut won't come off, passenger side stud is stuck in the knuckle.
Driver side nut spins with the ball joint stud. Thought the trick was to put a jack under it to apply pressure, no dice. I'm not sure what to do for this one. I'll have to do some more research.
Passenger side nut off, but I'm having difficulty removing it from the knuckle. Hoped I could pull the strut out of the strut tower and then I could pull it out of the knuckle, but I can't get it low enough to clear the top.
Progress I did make was getting all of the A/C stuff out of the engine bay. For the cruise control module, can I just cut the line close to the firewall? I'm assuming it runs up through the dash, not sure how much of a pain it is to pull it out from there.
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I've always had luck with a balljoint fork and a big hammer, but it'll probably ruin the rubber boots
This if you're just replacing the full control arm anyway.
The Harbor Freight ball joint separator works on the outer instead of the fork if you want to save the boot.
Re stuck nut: The jack under the ball joint trick works to stop the spinning but it takes a lot of pressure. Jack it up until it stops spinning (it might lift the car a bit). If the nut is rusted on solid then penetrant/heat and if that fails cut it off.
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FYI on the cruise control, are you removing it or what? The cable doesn't go through the firewall, it loops near the fusebox and goes go the throttle body. Unless you are talking about something else?
Or is the e30 cruise control totally different? Maybe don't pay attention to me
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FYI on the cruise control, are you removing it or what? The cable doesn't go through the firewall, it loops near the fusebox and goes go the throttle body. Unless you are talking about something else?
Or is the e30 cruise control totally different? Maybe don't pay attention to me
I am removing the cruise control. Maybe I saw the other half of the cable that went into the cable. I will double check, but running along the line it looked liked it went right into the car through the fire wall.
The thing that will get that off is heat, penetrating oil, and an impact. You may have to run the nut on and then off a few times to get it to go. The other side with the stuck nut needs heat and you need a lot bigger hammer lol
I'll give this a go. Didn't try going back and forth with the nut. Was going to use heat, but my torch was at the storage unit across town when I used it do remove the drive shaft.
Wanted to save the control arms, so I'm assuming smashing the top of the stud with a big hammer will probably ruin those lol
This if you're just replacing the full control arm anyway.
The Harbor Freight ball joint separator works on the outer instead of the fork if you want to save the boot.
Re stuck nut: The jack under the ball joint trick works to stop the spinning but it takes a lot of pressure. Jack it up until it stops spinning (it might lift the car a bit). If the nut is rusted on solid then penetrant/heat and if that fails cut it off.
Would like to save the control arms as the boots all look in good shape still. I had the car lifted off the jack stands with this trick, but wasn't able to apply any heat as I did not have my torch. I will give this method a try.
Thank you for the help gentlemen.
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stuck nut: you don't want to reuse that nut, so you could just cut it off with a dremel
stuck spindle: heat up the steering knuckle around the spindle, then strike the knuckle (not the spindle/threads) with a bfh.
secondly, if you are ditching your cruise control, can I have it?
Dan
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There’s two things coming off of an e30 cruise control actuator, the cable itself that runs to the throttle body, and the wiring which runs through the firewall as you said. It has its own hole in the firewall, so all you have to do is disconnect the plug underneath the kick panel, shove the grommet back through, disconnect the cable at the throttle body, unbolt the actuator and you’re set!
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