Joined the Club Today
-
you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.
there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.
Dan
-
I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff)
-
While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20
https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015
I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped
-
you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.
there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.
Think I might grab @Earl's
I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff)
Not sure if there is a good way to verify that or not, but will likely just buy some OEM type stuff.
Do you have a stage 2? Would this be a good option for a non daily, mostly street car?
Or should I go for the Stage 1?
While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20
https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015
I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped
Probably interested in that bushing and sleeve. I will PM you.
-
you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.
there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.
So I actually misspoke. I added the correct shifter bushing to the cart now. However, I was originally referring to the bushing that goes in number 4 in this pic
Is this the correct item to replace that?
I appreciate everyones help.
-
someone said:
This can only be used if you also run delrin transmission bushings. The transmission and shifter having different allowable movements will cause linkages to brake, difficulty shifting and other issues. We also offer a hard poly version of this bushing for people who run rubber/poly transmission bushings. Those can be found here.
leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er.
youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30.
Dan
-
leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er.
youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30.
Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.
-
Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.
The garagistic part looks like a 'meh' solution to replacing that bushing, but I'm biased and have had nothing but trouble with their products. Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one:
-
Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one
This ^
FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.
-
This ^
FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.
Just ordered it through @patsbimmer1
I also purchased a stage 1 clutch kit through grip force. Bought a lot of seals, tie rods, and other things that I wanted to replace.
There should be a good amount replaced on the car by the time it gets going.
-
@SteelBlue i went with stage 2
-
Anyone break a trans bolt head before? Still a good amount of the head left on the bolt, however, all of the hex portion is gone so theres really no way to get a socket on. I've heard using one of those reverse threaded/stripped bolt doodads might do the trick. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue before. The bolt in question is the large one at about 11 o'clock if you were looking at the trans from the rear. It has the exposed threads at the backside which makes me think I could maybe cut the head of the bolt off and then thread two nuts on the exposed threading and loosen it that way? Don't want to make a hasty decision.
First big mechanical issue in this process, many more to come I presume.
-
No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks
Rest of them broke loose fine. This one is the straggler holding it on. Talking with @MPW3RLee, might cut the head off to pull the trans off and then work the rest of the bolt that remains with some heat and vice grip. Or do some other shenanigans to get it out.
Could be worse, trans could be still in the car and could have broken it.
-
How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat
A good amount. That was my thought for getting it out.
-
+2 to cutting it off
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login