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Joined the Club Today

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  • KaiserRollsK
    KaiserRollsK
    KaiserRolls
    wrote on last edited by
    #59

    I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff)

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • EarlE
      EarlE
      Earl
      wrote on last edited by
      #60

      While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20

      https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015

      I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped👍

      museum sig 2earl.jpg

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      • SteelBlueS
        SteelBlueS
        SteelBlue
        wrote on last edited by
        #61

        straight6pwr said:

        you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.

        there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.

        https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-3-series-parts/bmw-E36-parts/e46-oval-shifter-bushings

        Think I might grab @Earl's

        KaiserRolls said:

        I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff) 

        Not sure if there is a good way to verify that or not, but will likely just buy some OEM type stuff.

        Do you have a stage 2? Would this be a good option for a non daily, mostly street car?

        Or should I go for the Stage 1?

        Earl said:

        While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20

        https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015

        I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped👍

        Probably interested in that bushing and sleeve. I will PM you.

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        • SteelBlueS
          SteelBlueS
          SteelBlue
          wrote on last edited by
          #62

          straight6pwr said:

          you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.

          there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.

          https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-3-series-parts/bmw-E36-parts/e46-oval-shifter-bushings

          So I actually misspoke. I added the correct shifter bushing to the cart now. However, I was originally referring to the bushing that goes in number 4 in this pic

          sA9jEGG.png

          Is this the correct item to replace that?

          I appreciate everyones help.

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          • straight6pwrS
            straight6pwrS
            straight6pwr
            wrote on last edited by
            #63

            someone said:

            This can only be used if you also run delrin transmission bushings. The transmission and shifter having different allowable movements will cause linkages to brake, difficulty shifting and other issues. We also offer a hard poly version of this bushing for people who run rubber/poly transmission bushings. Those can be found here.

            leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. 

            youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30.

            Dan
            yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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            1
            • SteelBlueS
              SteelBlueS
              SteelBlue
              wrote on last edited by
              #64

              straight6pwr said:

              leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. 

              youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30. 

              Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.

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              • EarlE
                EarlE
                Earl
                wrote on last edited by
                #65

                straight6pwr said:

                leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. 

                youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30. 

                I had forgot this was for his e30=(

                museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                • m42b32M
                  m42b32M
                  m42b32
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #66

                  SteelBlue said:

                  Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.

                  The garagistic part looks like a 'meh' solution to replacing that bushing, but I'm biased and have had nothing but trouble with their products. Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one:

                  https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-motorsport-parts/shifter-bushing-assembly/021011tms01a/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIydis9KLi2wIVWbnACh2A4Ay-EAQYAiABEgIgnPD_BwE

                  1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                  0
                  • AsparagusMikeA
                    AsparagusMikeA
                    AsparagusMike
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #67

                    m42b32 said:

                    Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one

                    This ^

                    FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    2
                    • SteelBlueS
                      SteelBlueS
                      SteelBlue
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #68

                      AsparagusMike said:

                      This ^

                      FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.

                      Just ordered it through @patsbimmer1

                      I also purchased a stage 1 clutch kit through grip force. Bought a lot of seals, tie rods, and other things that I wanted to replace.

                      There should be a good amount replaced on the car by the time it gets going.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      2
                      • KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRolls
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #69

                        @SteelBlue i went with stage 2

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                        0
                        • SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlue
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #70

                          Anyone break a trans bolt head before? Still a good amount of the head left on the bolt, however, all of the hex portion is gone so theres really no way to get a socket on. I've heard using one of those reverse threaded/stripped bolt doodads might do the trick. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue before. The bolt in question is the large one at about 11 o'clock if you were looking at the trans from the rear. It has the exposed threads at the backside which makes me think I could maybe cut the head of the bolt off and then thread two nuts on the exposed threading and loosen it that way? Don't want to make a hasty decision.

                          First big mechanical issue in this process, many more to come I presume.

                          NdqbWci.png

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                          • YoungCRY
                            YoungCRY
                            YoungCR
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #71

                            No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks

                            Chris Young
                            BMWCCA #458972
                            1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                            • SteelBlueS
                              SteelBlueS
                              SteelBlue
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #72

                              YoungCR said:

                              No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks

                              Rest of them broke loose fine. This one is the straggler holding it on. Talking with @MPW3RLee, might cut the head off to pull the trans off and then work the rest of the bolt that remains with some heat and vice grip. Or do some other shenanigans to get it out.

                              Could be worse, trans could be still in the car and could have broken it.

                              1 Reply Last reply
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                              • ChrisOC
                                ChrisOC
                                ChrisO
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #73

                                How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat

                                thin-nut-250x250.jpg

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                                • SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlue
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #74

                                  ChrisO said:

                                  How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat

                                  thin-nut-250x250.jpg 

                                  A good amount. That was my thought for getting it out.

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                                  • m42b32M
                                    m42b32M
                                    m42b32
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #75

                                    If you have access to a welder, you can weld a bolt to the head like this:

                                    fdc6f107.jpg

                                    Then you can get a proper socket on it and use an impact to get it out. The heat from the welder can help break it loose too

                                    1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                                    0
                                    • jc43089J
                                      jc43089J
                                      jc43089
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #76

                                      I would just cut it off and there will be plenty of the remaining bolt exposed after the transmission is off to deal with removing it.  You already need a new bolt anyway.

                                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                                      • KaiserRollsK
                                        KaiserRollsK
                                        KaiserRolls
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #77

                                        +2 to cutting it off

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                                        0
                                        • B
                                          B
                                          B C
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #78

                                          Yes, I had one of the top two bolts rounded off on my car when i was doing the trans swap. ended up pulling the whole engine with the trans and using the hammer-on type bolt extractor. worked real well

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