Joined the Club Today
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So I guess this is the rabbit hole of cars that I've never really experienced.
Trans is gonna have to be disconnected from the motor to get it on the stand to turn it over to do the E34 oil pan modification. If the trans is gonna be off, why not maybe do the rear main seal while it's open? Why not get a new a clutch and fly wheel? Chris had said that the clutch felt good but if I am already in here, it's tempting.
I think I have heard @KaiserRolls talking about Grip Force clutch kits being good? I really don't know the differences between stages, but from some reading, stage 3 seems track oriented. How is this stage 2 kit? This won't be a daily driver, so doesn't need to super comfort oriented.
I was planning to do some of the shifter rebuild stuff while it's exposed, and having the trans off would make cleaning it easier. The motor has 222k, so I feel like I should be doing some of these things, but I don't know enough to judge if it's necessary or not.
Need opinions.
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Do it all now. At bare minimum do the rear main seal, replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, clutch pivot pin, clutch slave, trans input seal, trans output seal, selector and shaft seals,
I did all these things and now my cars nee owner gets to enjoy them
Pretty much any clutch disk with a sprung hub will have very good drivability.
I had a South Bend stage 3 street clutch for my turbo M20 and 24V swap. Its no stock honda civic clutch, but its very good on the street for daily driving.
Avoid 6-puck or unsprung hubs unless you like skid racing and dragon races.
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Do it all now. At bare minimum do the rear main seal, replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, clutch pivot pin, clutch slave, trans input seal, trans output seal, selector and shaft seals,
I did all these things and now my cars nee owner gets to enjoy them
Pretty much any clutch disk with a sprung hub will have very good drivability.
I had a South Bend stage 3 street clutch for my turbo M20 and 24V swap. Its no stock honda civic clutch, but its very good on the street for daily driving.
Avoid 6-puck or unsprung hubs unless you like skid racing and dragon races.
Yeah, it makes sense to just do it now. All added to the cart. When I am selecting the shifter bushing, should I be selecting one for an E36 S52?
Should I be doing the entire RMS assembly? The entire kit or the seal?
Would this be a good option for replacing clutch/flywheel?
This is all a first time learning experience so I appreciate the help.
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Im not sure about the shifter bushing on a ZF, but the WIBIMMERS cardinal rule is no Uro brand parts. Uro parts are usually installed with a ban hammer. Chris will let you use his after he is done with it
The clutch kit looks good to me
(SteveBuscemi.png)
the RMS assembly is a convenience. I have always pressed the old seal out, reused the housing, and re-installed the new seal at a slightly different location as there is usually a groove worn into the crank hub. The one on my M52 was the most severe groove I had seen, but offsetting the new seal and using a genuine BMW seal with the seal driver made for a successful install.
While we are on the topic I will mention that there are also Speedi-sleeves that SKF makes in case you find a groove on yours and want to feel better about restoring that smooth sealing surface.
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Would this be a good option for replacing clutch/flywheel?
I just bought that exact kit, havent taken it out of the box yet though. I think @AsparagusMike and @KaiserRolls have gripforce setups too, so maybe they can weigh in? I've heard good things considering the price point, just make sure to buy a better quality pilot bearing and throwout bearing because the ones in the kit are apparently trash
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Im not sure about the shifter bushing on a ZF, but the WIBIMMERS cardinal rule is no Uro brand parts. Uro parts are usually installed with a ban hammer. Chris will let you use his after he is done with it
The clutch kit looks good to me
(SteveBuscemi.png)
the RMS assembly is a convenience. I have always pressed the old seal out, reused the housing, and re-installed the new seal at a slightly different location as there is usually a groove worn into the crank hub. The one on my M52 was the most severe groove I had seen, but offsetting the new seal and using a genuine BMW seal with the seal driver made for a successful install.
While we are on the topic I will mention that there are also Speedi-sleeves that SKF makes in case you find a groove on yours and want to feel better about restoring that smooth sealing surface.
So I should be buying a shifter bushing for a ZF not a 260?
I just bought that exact kit, havent taken it out of the box yet though. I think @AsparagusMike and @KaiserRolls have gripforce setups too, so maybe they can weigh in? I've heard good things considering the price point, just make sure to buy a better quality pilot bearing and throwout bearing because the ones in the kit are apparently trash
@KaiserRolls pls respnd
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you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.
there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.
Dan
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I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff)
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While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20
https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015
I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped
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you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.
there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.
Think I might grab @Earl's
I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff)
Not sure if there is a good way to verify that or not, but will likely just buy some OEM type stuff.
Do you have a stage 2? Would this be a good option for a non daily, mostly street car?
Or should I go for the Stage 1?
While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20
https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015
I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped
Probably interested in that bushing and sleeve. I will PM you.
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you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.
there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.
So I actually misspoke. I added the correct shifter bushing to the cart now. However, I was originally referring to the bushing that goes in number 4 in this pic
Is this the correct item to replace that?
I appreciate everyones help.
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someone said:
This can only be used if you also run delrin transmission bushings. The transmission and shifter having different allowable movements will cause linkages to brake, difficulty shifting and other issues. We also offer a hard poly version of this bushing for people who run rubber/poly transmission bushings. Those can be found here.
leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er.
youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30.
Dan
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leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er.
youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30.
Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.
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Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.
The garagistic part looks like a 'meh' solution to replacing that bushing, but I'm biased and have had nothing but trouble with their products. Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one:
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Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one
This ^
FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.
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This ^
FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.
Just ordered it through @patsbimmer1
I also purchased a stage 1 clutch kit through grip force. Bought a lot of seals, tie rods, and other things that I wanted to replace.
There should be a good amount replaced on the car by the time it gets going.
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@SteelBlue i went with stage 2
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Anyone break a trans bolt head before? Still a good amount of the head left on the bolt, however, all of the hex portion is gone so theres really no way to get a socket on. I've heard using one of those reverse threaded/stripped bolt doodads might do the trick. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue before. The bolt in question is the large one at about 11 o'clock if you were looking at the trans from the rear. It has the exposed threads at the backside which makes me think I could maybe cut the head of the bolt off and then thread two nuts on the exposed threading and loosen it that way? Don't want to make a hasty decision.
First big mechanical issue in this process, many more to come I presume.
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