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Joined the Club Today

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  • SteelBlueS
    SteelBlueS
    SteelBlue
    wrote on last edited by
    #57

    snap said:

    Im not sure about the shifter bushing on a ZF, but the WIBIMMERS cardinal rule is no Uro brand parts. Uro parts are usually installed with a ban hammer. Chris will let you use his after he is done with it

    The clutch kit looks good to me

    (SteveBuscemi.png)

    the RMS assembly is a convenience. I have always pressed the old seal out, reused the housing, and re-installed the new seal at a slightly different location as there is usually a groove worn into the crank hub. The one on my M52 was the most severe groove I had seen, but offsetting the new seal and using a genuine BMW seal with the seal driver made for a successful install.

    While we are on the topic I will mention that there are also Speedi-sleeves that SKF makes in case you find a groove on yours and want to feel better about restoring that smooth sealing surface.

    So I should be buying a shifter bushing for a ZF not a 260? 

    m42b32 said:

    I just bought that exact kit, havent taken it out of the box yet though. I think @AsparagusMike and @KaiserRolls have gripforce setups too, so maybe they can weigh in? I've heard good things considering the price point, just make sure to buy a better quality pilot bearing and throwout bearing because the ones in the kit are apparently trash 

    @KaiserRolls pls respnd

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    • straight6pwrS
      straight6pwrS
      straight6pwr
      wrote on last edited by
      #58

      you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.

      there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.

      https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-3-series-parts/bmw-E36-parts/e46-oval-shifter-bushings

      Dan
      yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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      • KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRolls
        wrote on last edited by
        #59

        I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff)

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        • EarlE
          EarlE
          Earl
          wrote on last edited by
          #60

          While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20

          https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015

          I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped👍

          museum sig 2earl.jpg

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          • SteelBlueS
            SteelBlueS
            SteelBlue
            wrote on last edited by
            #61

            straight6pwr said:

            you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.

            there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.

            https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-3-series-parts/bmw-E36-parts/e46-oval-shifter-bushings

            Think I might grab @Earl's

            KaiserRolls said:

            I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff) 

            Not sure if there is a good way to verify that or not, but will likely just buy some OEM type stuff.

            Do you have a stage 2? Would this be a good option for a non daily, mostly street car?

            Or should I go for the Stage 1?

            Earl said:

            While you're refreshing the shifter I have a Garagistic rear carrier bushing that I already installed in a stock sleeve. I won't be using it and will sent it to you for $20

            https://store.garagistic.com/Rear-Poly-Carrier-Shifter-Bushing-e46-e36-e31-e92-e39-25111222015

            I also have a Ruff Racing adjustable shifter if you'd want to upgrade. I can give you details if you'd be interested. I started selling them for some spare change on the side. They're $175 shipped👍

            Probably interested in that bushing and sleeve. I will PM you.

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • SteelBlueS
              SteelBlueS
              SteelBlue
              wrote on last edited by
              #62

              straight6pwr said:

              you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.

              there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.

              https://store.garagistic.com/bmw-performance-parts/bmw-3-series-parts/bmw-E36-parts/e46-oval-shifter-bushings

              So I actually misspoke. I added the correct shifter bushing to the cart now. However, I was originally referring to the bushing that goes in number 4 in this pic

              sA9jEGG.png

              Is this the correct item to replace that?

              I appreciate everyones help.

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              • straight6pwrS
                straight6pwrS
                straight6pwr
                wrote on last edited by
                #63

                someone said:

                This can only be used if you also run delrin transmission bushings. The transmission and shifter having different allowable movements will cause linkages to brake, difficulty shifting and other issues. We also offer a hard poly version of this bushing for people who run rubber/poly transmission bushings. Those can be found here.

                leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. 

                youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30.

                Dan
                yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                • SteelBlueS
                  SteelBlueS
                  SteelBlue
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #64

                  straight6pwr said:

                  leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. 

                  youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30. 

                  Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.

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                  0
                  • EarlE
                    EarlE
                    Earl
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #65

                    straight6pwr said:

                    leave it up to garagistic to be about as intelligent as the average craigslist-er. 

                    youve got the right part. the one earl is offering is not for an e30. 

                    I had forgot this was for his e30=(

                    museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                    • m42b32M
                      m42b32M
                      m42b32
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #66

                      SteelBlue said:

                      Thank you, I will probably go with their poly version to pair with the trans and motor mounts.

                      The garagistic part looks like a 'meh' solution to replacing that bushing, but I'm biased and have had nothing but trouble with their products. Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one:

                      https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-motorsport-parts/shifter-bushing-assembly/021011tms01a/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIydis9KLi2wIVWbnACh2A4Ay-EAQYAiABEgIgnPD_BwE

                      1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                      • AsparagusMikeA
                        AsparagusMikeA
                        AsparagusMike
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #67

                        m42b32 said:

                        Turner makes an excellent piece that includes a stainless version of the bracket. It's quite a bit more expensive but this is what I would probably buy if I was doing that job, plus it's the same cost as just buying the OEM one

                        This ^

                        FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.

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                        2
                        • SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlue
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #68

                          AsparagusMike said:

                          This ^

                          FWIW, I used the Turner bushing for my linkage and its a very nice part, stiffened everything up quite a bit more vs. Oem and its gonna last quite a bit longer. The price is a little high in terms of what ur getting so I would talk to patsbimmer about pricing, he got me a much better deal on it.

                          Just ordered it through @patsbimmer1

                          I also purchased a stage 1 clutch kit through grip force. Bought a lot of seals, tie rods, and other things that I wanted to replace.

                          There should be a good amount replaced on the car by the time it gets going.

                          1 Reply Last reply
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                          • KaiserRollsK
                            KaiserRollsK
                            KaiserRolls
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #69

                            @SteelBlue i went with stage 2

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                            0
                            • SteelBlueS
                              SteelBlueS
                              SteelBlue
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #70

                              Anyone break a trans bolt head before? Still a good amount of the head left on the bolt, however, all of the hex portion is gone so theres really no way to get a socket on. I've heard using one of those reverse threaded/stripped bolt doodads might do the trick. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue before. The bolt in question is the large one at about 11 o'clock if you were looking at the trans from the rear. It has the exposed threads at the backside which makes me think I could maybe cut the head of the bolt off and then thread two nuts on the exposed threading and loosen it that way? Don't want to make a hasty decision.

                              First big mechanical issue in this process, many more to come I presume.

                              NdqbWci.png

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                              0
                              • YoungCRY
                                YoungCRY
                                YoungCR
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #71

                                No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks

                                Chris Young
                                BMWCCA #458972
                                1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                                • SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlue
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #72

                                  YoungCR said:

                                  No but I'd PB blast and heat the rest of them! That sucks

                                  Rest of them broke loose fine. This one is the straggler holding it on. Talking with @MPW3RLee, might cut the head off to pull the trans off and then work the rest of the bolt that remains with some heat and vice grip. Or do some other shenanigans to get it out.

                                  Could be worse, trans could be still in the car and could have broken it.

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                                  • ChrisOC
                                    ChrisOC
                                    ChrisO
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #73

                                    How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat

                                    thin-nut-250x250.jpg

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                                    • SteelBlueS
                                      SteelBlueS
                                      SteelBlue
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #74

                                      ChrisO said:

                                      How far does that bolt stick out past the block? Maybe you could get two thin nuts locked together on the part of the bolt sticking out and break it free that way with some heat

                                      thin-nut-250x250.jpg 

                                      A good amount. That was my thought for getting it out.

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                                      0
                                      • m42b32M
                                        m42b32M
                                        m42b32
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #75

                                        If you have access to a welder, you can weld a bolt to the head like this:

                                        fdc6f107.jpg

                                        Then you can get a proper socket on it and use an impact to get it out. The heat from the welder can help break it loose too

                                        1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                                        • jc43089J
                                          jc43089J
                                          jc43089
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #76

                                          I would just cut it off and there will be plenty of the remaining bolt exposed after the transmission is off to deal with removing it.  You already need a new bolt anyway.

                                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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