Joined the Club Today
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Aww crap!
I have to wonder if you have the right throwout bearing, slave cyl, or just verify that the TOB is installed correctly.
i dont want to tell you to make an access hole in your bellhousing that you can put a plug into, but at this rate....
real sorry man, i remember reading similar tales on R3V long ago
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Aww crap!
I have to wonder if you have the right throwout bearing, slave cyl, or just verify that the TOB is installed correctly.
i dont want to tell you to make an access hole in your bellhousing that you can put a plug into, but at this rate....
real sorry man, i remember reading similar tales on R3V long ago
Was thinking the same thing in the shower.
Really not sure what I'm gonna do at this point. If someone wants some extra cash hit me up. Or if someone wants a 95% complete S52 swapped E30, hit me up.
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Interesting as it seems this is a common issue. With little searching I just found about 5 threads about clutch bleeding/ slaves issues.
One guy said he had a bad pressure plate right out of the box, another said it was the clutch fork, another said it was the plastic pin

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=605869&page=2
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=256720&page=2
Also, If the pin is shooting out I would assume there is too much throw? I would unbolt the slave and stick a magnet through the hole to get the pin rather than dropping the trans FYI. I know its on the side but its worth a shot.
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out?
My q as well. If it’s all zf bits in the trans I’m not sure how it would fall out
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?
This is the clutch and flywheel I am using:
I was probably a little hasty in assuming that everything is direct replacements. I assumed based off of the product listing applications that because this was for an E36 M3 that it would work.
Or it’s my own fault and have installed something incorrectly in the trans. However, I followed the Pelican Parts clutch replacement guide and made sure everything was correct. The car had moved under its own power before I had replaced the clutch. I’m guess I’m not sure where the disconnect is between driving and now this.
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Clutches stress me out so bad. Every time I have done one I always stress myself out because you have no idea if you did it completely right until the car is back together and running.
I once had a 2x4 scrap piece that I wedged between the back of the block and the firewall to hold the engine in place fall into the bell housing as I was putting the transmission back in. Luckily it didn't do any damage and just made a rattle.
Moral of the story, I am of no help here but it unfortunately sounds like something is not sitting right or spaced correctly and the transmission has to come back off.

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Clutches stress me out so bad. Every time I have done one I always stress myself out because you have no idea if you did it completely right until the car is back together and running.
I once had a 2x4 scrap piece that I wedged between the back of the block and the firewall to hold the engine in place fall into the bell housing as I was putting the transmission back in. Luckily it didn't do any damage and just made a rattle.
Moral of the story, I am of no help here but it unfortunately sounds like something is not sitting right or spaced correctly and the transmission has to come back off.

Yep, this has been one of my least favorite things to do so far.
Pretty sure I have to pull the motor as the I don’t think the top trans bolts can’t be accessed even with letting the motor hang with the trans brace off.
Stoked...
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Yep, this has been one of my least favorite things to do so far.
Pretty sure I have to pull the motor as the I don’t think the top trans bolts can’t be accessed even with letting the motor hang with the trans brace off.
Stoked...
I pulled my trans with motor still in place. Solid mounts, did not loosen them at all (still had about an inch/2 of movement). Just takes a shit load of extensions and an impact
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Long extensions and maybe with a wobble extension as the last one. Don't use a universal, too wobbly.
You used all the pieces from the kit including the throwout bearing?
This is what it took for me
also with that gripforce kit use an OEM pilot/TOB if you can. The ones in the kit are less than ideal. (I have removed ones sitting on my bench with like 3k miles and they’re shot)
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Long extensions and maybe with a wobble extension as the last one. Don't use a universal, too wobbly.
You used all the pieces from the kit including the throwout bearing?
I used a Sachs throw out bearing because I heard the supplied ones are trash.
This is what it took for me
also with that gripforce kit use an OEM pilot/TOB if you can. The ones in the kit are less than ideal. (I have removed ones sitting on my bench with like 3k miles and they’re shot)
I think I bought a new tob and pilot bearing based on your recommendation. You didn’t even loosen your Motor mounts? How was reinstalling the trans?
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You didn’t even loosen your Motor mounts? How was reinstalling the trans?
I did not, there was still some play though. I will probably loosen them up for reinstall, which I am going to try and tackle this weekend
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FYI - the two top transmission bolts on the 135i are the PITA to get to as well. Lee used a combo of extensions and a impact with some juice to get them off. Mitch's setup looks similar.
You can see it during the timelapse part of my clutch install video.
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Lee used some juice to get them off.
You can see it during my video.
Saucy
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Delaying the inevitable...
3.25 LSD is in. Replaced fluid and RTV green gasketd the casing. Need to replace the speed sensor as this ones teeth were broken on the inside. Not a terribly difficult job, maybe will do the stud conversion in the future to make things easier.
Lighting brought to you courtesy of my new toy:
I am all in on Milwaukee. Love the tools, battery system, and as lame as it sounds, their branding(kudos to the marketing department).
Car will be heading to Legend Auto(hopefully tomorrow given trailer situations) to get the clutch issue worked out and the exhaust fabbed. I’m going to be gone all of next week and will be moving the following week, in addition to my doubts of being able to do the job itself, I am going to be leaving it to the professionals.
Possibly this winter or maybe the following, I plan to do a complete rear end rebuild. Reinforced subframe, subframe and trailing arm bushings, wheel bearings, parking brakes, axles, and maybe a differential rebuild. New shop space is gonna be great to work on the car in the off-season.
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I am all in on Milwaukee. Love the tools, battery system, and as lame as it sounds, their branding(kudos to the marketing department). DESIGN DEPARTMENT
I know 95% of the design team there.

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I know 95% of the design team there.

Do you also know the guy that makes diamond racing steelies?
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I know 95% of the design team there.

I really want to work there.
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