Joined the Club Today
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Yes, get a male connector to splice into the chassis wiring. There is a simple modification you can do to the relay to keep the low beams from turning off when the high beams are on. I can look it up for you if you find out you need it. Any auto parts store will have the headlight connector on hand.
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Yes, get a male connector to splice into the chassis wiring. There is a simple modification you can do to the relay to keep the low beams from turning off when the high beams are on. I can look it up for you if you find out you need it. Any auto parts store will have the headlight connector on hand.
Believe its the 30 and 87 on the relay that need to be jumped.
But thank you.
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Like I mentioned in another thread, just make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir and pump the pedal a few times every 15 minutes or so while doing other things. It will bleed itself by the air rising up to the reservoir. No mess, just watch the bubbles come up into the reservoir. Pumping the pedal once in a while dislodges more air and waiting in between gives it time to rise in the system. You don't need to open the bleed screw at all.
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Like I mentioned in another thread, just make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir and pump the pedal a few times every 15 minutes or so while doing other things. It will bleed itself by the air rising up to the reservoir. No mess, just watch the bubbles come up into the reservoir. Pumping the pedal once in a while dislodges more air and waiting in between gives it time to rise in the system. You don't need to open the bleed screw at all.
Gonna give this bleeder a try, if it doesn't work I will fall back to this.
I also completed my first ever wiring adventure, only had to redo two connectors because I hooked them to the wrong wire...
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Well, used the reverse bleeder and got some pedal feel but not great. Was going to use @jc43089 method of just pumping it a little bit every now and then, pumped it like 5-10 times and the slave shot the dowel out again. Dowel is in the bell housing.
I just don’t understand what I’m doing wrong. Slave was protruding off the bell housing studs before I tightened them down, so I’m figured it was on.
Trans is probably going to have to come off now. Know that’s a bitch and not exactly motivated to do that.
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Aww crap!
I have to wonder if you have the right throwout bearing, slave cyl, or just verify that the TOB is installed correctly.
i dont want to tell you to make an access hole in your bellhousing that you can put a plug into, but at this rate....
real sorry man, i remember reading similar tales on R3V long ago
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Aww crap!
I have to wonder if you have the right throwout bearing, slave cyl, or just verify that the TOB is installed correctly.
i dont want to tell you to make an access hole in your bellhousing that you can put a plug into, but at this rate....
real sorry man, i remember reading similar tales on R3V long ago
Was thinking the same thing in the shower.
Really not sure what I'm gonna do at this point. If someone wants some extra cash hit me up. Or if someone wants a 95% complete S52 swapped E30, hit me up.
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Interesting as it seems this is a common issue. With little searching I just found about 5 threads about clutch bleeding/ slaves issues.
One guy said he had a bad pressure plate right out of the box, another said it was the clutch fork, another said it was the plastic pin
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=605869&page=2
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=256720&page=2
Also, If the pin is shooting out I would assume there is too much throw? I would unbolt the slave and stick a magnet through the hole to get the pin rather than dropping the trans FYI. I know its on the side but its worth a shot.
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out?
My q as well. If it’s all zf bits in the trans I’m not sure how it would fall out
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?
This is the clutch and flywheel I am using:
I was probably a little hasty in assuming that everything is direct replacements. I assumed based off of the product listing applications that because this was for an E36 M3 that it would work.
Or it’s my own fault and have installed something incorrectly in the trans. However, I followed the Pelican Parts clutch replacement guide and made sure everything was correct. The car had moved under its own power before I had replaced the clutch. I’m guess I’m not sure where the disconnect is between driving and now this.
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Clutches stress me out so bad. Every time I have done one I always stress myself out because you have no idea if you did it completely right until the car is back together and running.
I once had a 2x4 scrap piece that I wedged between the back of the block and the firewall to hold the engine in place fall into the bell housing as I was putting the transmission back in. Luckily it didn't do any damage and just made a rattle.
Moral of the story, I am of no help here but it unfortunately sounds like something is not sitting right or spaced correctly and the transmission has to come back off.
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Clutches stress me out so bad. Every time I have done one I always stress myself out because you have no idea if you did it completely right until the car is back together and running.
I once had a 2x4 scrap piece that I wedged between the back of the block and the firewall to hold the engine in place fall into the bell housing as I was putting the transmission back in. Luckily it didn't do any damage and just made a rattle.
Moral of the story, I am of no help here but it unfortunately sounds like something is not sitting right or spaced correctly and the transmission has to come back off.
Yep, this has been one of my least favorite things to do so far.
Pretty sure I have to pull the motor as the I don’t think the top trans bolts can’t be accessed even with letting the motor hang with the trans brace off.
Stoked...
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Yep, this has been one of my least favorite things to do so far.
Pretty sure I have to pull the motor as the I don’t think the top trans bolts can’t be accessed even with letting the motor hang with the trans brace off.
Stoked...
I pulled my trans with motor still in place. Solid mounts, did not loosen them at all (still had about an inch/2 of movement). Just takes a shit load of extensions and an impact
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Long extensions and maybe with a wobble extension as the last one. Don't use a universal, too wobbly.
You used all the pieces from the kit including the throwout bearing?
This is what it took for me
also with that gripforce kit use an OEM pilot/TOB if you can. The ones in the kit are less than ideal. (I have removed ones sitting on my bench with like 3k miles and they’re shot)
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Long extensions and maybe with a wobble extension as the last one. Don't use a universal, too wobbly.
You used all the pieces from the kit including the throwout bearing?
I used a Sachs throw out bearing because I heard the supplied ones are trash.
This is what it took for me
also with that gripforce kit use an OEM pilot/TOB if you can. The ones in the kit are less than ideal. (I have removed ones sitting on my bench with like 3k miles and they’re shot)
I think I bought a new tob and pilot bearing based on your recommendation. You didn’t even loosen your Motor mounts? How was reinstalling the trans?
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You didn’t even loosen your Motor mounts? How was reinstalling the trans?
I did not, there was still some play though. I will probably loosen them up for reinstall, which I am going to try and tackle this weekend
keep it up!
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