Joined the Club Today
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out?
My q as well. If it’s all zf bits in the trans I’m not sure how it would fall out
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If the pin is seated on the clutch fork properly how can it shoot out? The only way it can shoot out is something allowing it to overextend. I don't remember what your clutch setup was. What stuff do you have matched up? And did you compare the stack height to the stock stack height?
This is the clutch and flywheel I am using:
I was probably a little hasty in assuming that everything is direct replacements. I assumed based off of the product listing applications that because this was for an E36 M3 that it would work.
Or it’s my own fault and have installed something incorrectly in the trans. However, I followed the Pelican Parts clutch replacement guide and made sure everything was correct. The car had moved under its own power before I had replaced the clutch. I’m guess I’m not sure where the disconnect is between driving and now this.
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Clutches stress me out so bad. Every time I have done one I always stress myself out because you have no idea if you did it completely right until the car is back together and running.
I once had a 2x4 scrap piece that I wedged between the back of the block and the firewall to hold the engine in place fall into the bell housing as I was putting the transmission back in. Luckily it didn't do any damage and just made a rattle.
Moral of the story, I am of no help here but it unfortunately sounds like something is not sitting right or spaced correctly and the transmission has to come back off.
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Clutches stress me out so bad. Every time I have done one I always stress myself out because you have no idea if you did it completely right until the car is back together and running.
I once had a 2x4 scrap piece that I wedged between the back of the block and the firewall to hold the engine in place fall into the bell housing as I was putting the transmission back in. Luckily it didn't do any damage and just made a rattle.
Moral of the story, I am of no help here but it unfortunately sounds like something is not sitting right or spaced correctly and the transmission has to come back off.
Yep, this has been one of my least favorite things to do so far.
Pretty sure I have to pull the motor as the I don’t think the top trans bolts can’t be accessed even with letting the motor hang with the trans brace off.
Stoked...
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Yep, this has been one of my least favorite things to do so far.
Pretty sure I have to pull the motor as the I don’t think the top trans bolts can’t be accessed even with letting the motor hang with the trans brace off.
Stoked...
I pulled my trans with motor still in place. Solid mounts, did not loosen them at all (still had about an inch/2 of movement). Just takes a shit load of extensions and an impact
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Long extensions and maybe with a wobble extension as the last one. Don't use a universal, too wobbly.
You used all the pieces from the kit including the throwout bearing?
This is what it took for me
also with that gripforce kit use an OEM pilot/TOB if you can. The ones in the kit are less than ideal. (I have removed ones sitting on my bench with like 3k miles and they’re shot)
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Long extensions and maybe with a wobble extension as the last one. Don't use a universal, too wobbly.
You used all the pieces from the kit including the throwout bearing?
I used a Sachs throw out bearing because I heard the supplied ones are trash.
This is what it took for me
also with that gripforce kit use an OEM pilot/TOB if you can. The ones in the kit are less than ideal. (I have removed ones sitting on my bench with like 3k miles and they’re shot)
I think I bought a new tob and pilot bearing based on your recommendation. You didn’t even loosen your Motor mounts? How was reinstalling the trans?
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You didn’t even loosen your Motor mounts? How was reinstalling the trans?
I did not, there was still some play though. I will probably loosen them up for reinstall, which I am going to try and tackle this weekend
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FYI - the two top transmission bolts on the 135i are the PITA to get to as well. Lee used a combo of extensions and a impact with some juice to get them off. Mitch's setup looks similar.
You can see it during the timelapse part of my clutch install video.
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Lee used some juice to get them off.
You can see it during my video.
Saucy
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Delaying the inevitable...
3.25 LSD is in. Replaced fluid and RTV green gasketd the casing. Need to replace the speed sensor as this ones teeth were broken on the inside. Not a terribly difficult job, maybe will do the stud conversion in the future to make things easier.
Lighting brought to you courtesy of my new toy:
I am all in on Milwaukee. Love the tools, battery system, and as lame as it sounds, their branding(kudos to the marketing department).
Car will be heading to Legend Auto(hopefully tomorrow given trailer situations) to get the clutch issue worked out and the exhaust fabbed. I’m going to be gone all of next week and will be moving the following week, in addition to my doubts of being able to do the job itself, I am going to be leaving it to the professionals.
Possibly this winter or maybe the following, I plan to do a complete rear end rebuild. Reinforced subframe, subframe and trailing arm bushings, wheel bearings, parking brakes, axles, and maybe a differential rebuild. New shop space is gonna be great to work on the car in the off-season.
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I am all in on Milwaukee. Love the tools, battery system, and as lame as it sounds, their branding(kudos to the marketing department). DESIGN DEPARTMENT
I know 95% of the design team there.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
I know 95% of the design team there.
Do you also know the guy that makes diamond racing steelies?
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I know 95% of the design team there.
I really want to work there.
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Do you also know the guy that makes diamond racing steelies?
I wish I did.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Could I have a bad master cylinder? Went to push the car out of the garage today and pressed the brake pedal to have no brakes. I bleed the brakes before I had attempted to do the slave cylinder. Pool of brake fluid started under the car, jacked it up in the road to confirm that it was indeed coming from the sale cylinder and not somewhere else.
I thought these systems were independent?
Here it is before going on the trailer. Looks good on the bottle caps, can’t wait to get the other wheels on.
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E30 update.
Legend bled the system 4 different ways add found that it did not fix the situation. I had bought a brake master cylinder off R3V thinking that might also be making a difference, but it did not. At least just checking another thing off the list. They bought a new slave cylinder, making it the third in the car. Did not solve the issue, but it hasn't ejected into the bell housing. They were able to pull the one that was in there out with a magnet, no pulling the bell housing...yet.
They found that the pedal box, the thing that all the pedals mount to under the dash, had a crack in it. They welded it back together. Did not fix the issue.
I'm being told that the clutch pedal does begin to disengage the clutch pedal until it is halfway down, the top of the pedal stroke is dead. Once it gets to the floor, it still needs to go further to fully disengage the clutch. They assumption is that the wrong clutch master cylinder was installed. And that might be correct, this is the one I purchased. I just realized the URL says E36 in it. It looks like this is the E30 one, link. I'm guessing I was probably looking through the E36 RealOEM catalog opposed to the E30 one. E36 drivetrain in E30 chassis means back and forth between the two a lot.
They are finishing fabbing the exhaust right now. If the issue for this whole scenario was that I just had the wrong clutch master cylinder, I would be ecstatic. Would a clutch master for an E36 opposed to an E30 make that much a difference?
I do still need a second O2 sensor. Also probably some issues that will arise, but I just want it to drive.
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