Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped
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more progress.
pulled the radiator to get the water pump out. old w/plastic impeller (that likes to explode) and new with metal impeller.
decided i should finally permanently mount the elec. fan, which was only held by those plastic zip tie things. it was always on the edge of falling off the car.
found a small crank case filter at o'reillys on capitol drive. there was almost a fight in the store, fun times. anyways, i reused a length of hose that had a nice 90deg bend it it.
mounted facing down and tucked in this frame pocket so water can't find its way into the system.
i also got a quick layer of paint on the flaking/rusting brake booster, cleaned up the engine bay a little more and pulled the brake reservoir in prep for the new one.
Dan
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remote brake fluid reservoir installed. this is a 2002 res.
blower motor resistor installed.
these are just for future reference, since I had them off the car. (upper/lower rad hose part numbers for an e30 24v swap.)
thermostat/alum housing installed. people seem leery about the sealing at the gasket/housing casting, so for extra protection i threw in some rtv.
I needed to get my dipstick tube to seal where it enters the oil pan. PO had it ziptied to the alternator and no rubber seal at all. I added the rubber seal last year, which didnt help - it just leaked then blew out pretty quickly. the new bracket should do the trick. test mockup:
quick coat of paint
voila.
a little extra protection above the seal:
Dan
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ounted facing down and tucked in this frame pocket so water can't find its way into the system.
Is this for the fuel tank vent line/purge valve line?
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Did you make that bracket? I still need to make one for mine.
yup. just some steel that bent into shape.
The o-ring is supposed top go below the ridge. They are a pain to install. Oil the o-ring and put it on the dipstick and use a rubber mallet to pop it into the oil pan hole.
it is, the dipstick is upside down in that photo.
Is this for the fuel tank vent line/purge valve line?
correct. the PO had plugged it, resulting in pressure in the tank only escaping when I took off the gas cap.
Dan
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It is, the dipstick is upside down in that photo.
Don't mind this dipstick then.
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engine is 95% done. just have to extend the brake fluid sensor wiring for the new location and clean a few more areas.
manual valve to replace the throttle body thermostat. just a 1/2 brass ball valve from the plumbing aisle.
new booster check valve and hose
wrapped the engine harness and removed the covers. i hate plastic covers. i'd rather see the guts. new c101 bracket (hard to see here)
well hello, ms. lady.
teaser pic.
Dan
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Why the ball valve?
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don't want to completely bypass the coolant for the throttle.
Dan
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I have bypassed the throttle body heater for a long time on my daily e36, no problems so far. An oil drain plug is the right size to plug the hole in the head. M12x1.5.
good to know. if it gives me leaks in the future, ill probably ditch it entirely.
The valve cover looks so good!
thanks dude!
Dan
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front rotors, pads, and brake lines on!
the fasteners on this car are so so un-rusty that the rotor set screw came off with an allen key! i feel spoiled.
Dan
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Thats a great feeling. I think all of us have some sort of memory of stripping, drilling, or breaking one.
Thanks for the good word on R3V today as well.
Are you planning on bedding the brakes in? To be honest I have never felt certain that ive done a bedding process correctly and I find im better off just driving the thing normally.
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i've had to drill at least 1 of the 4 every time i've done this job.
no prob.
yeah i usually do a truncated version of what they suggest. there's no where in the city to do all those 50-0-50-0 stops, so i just do a couple, then drive normal. my brain tells me it doesnt matter, i don't believe auto repair shops do that procedure before handing cars with new pads back to customers.
Dan
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The bedding in process i've always done has been whatever speed I can get to then slowing down 10 - 20 mph then speeding back up and repeat. I don't know that I've ever seen a bedding process that tells you to take it to zero or a stop. The thought process is you keep moving to keep air moving over the new brakes then do a brief cool down with no or light braking before coming to a full stop. This of course is only if it's possible to not stop.
Also, for the set screws, once I started using an impact driver to remove them I haven't had to drill a single one out. I've probably done hundreds with an impact driver with zero issues. It's worth the $20 investment!
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The bedding in process i've always done has been whatever speed I can get to then slowing down 10 - 20 mph then speeding back up and repeat. I don't know that I've ever seen a bedding process that tells you to take it to zero or a stop. The thought process is you keep moving to keep air moving over the new brakes then do a brief cool down with no or light braking before coming to a full stop. This of course is only if it's possible to not stop.
Also, for the set screws, once I started using an impact driver to remove them I haven't had to drill a single one out. I've probably done hundreds with an impact driver with zero issues. It's worth the $20 investment!
i use a 18v impact screw driver with a 3/8 drive adapter and it works well for most hardware that's not completely rust-f*d.
are you using a MANUAL impact driver?!
Dan
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Yes, the manual impact driver that you smack with a hammer. I'm telling you, it's magic if you know how to use it. When I teach brake classes I show everyone how to use them and they're always amazed! You don't have enough control over an electric or air impact and I found they strip the heads out to frequently with the inverted allen or phillips head screws that are used. They over power the bit and the head.
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