Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped
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engine is 95% done. just have to extend the brake fluid sensor wiring for the new location and clean a few more areas.
manual valve to replace the throttle body thermostat. just a 1/2 brass ball valve from the plumbing aisle.
new booster check valve and hose
wrapped the engine harness and removed the covers. i hate plastic covers. i'd rather see the guts. new c101 bracket (hard to see here)
well hello, ms. lady.
teaser pic.
Dan
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Why the ball valve?
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don't want to completely bypass the coolant for the throttle.
Dan
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I have bypassed the throttle body heater for a long time on my daily e36, no problems so far. An oil drain plug is the right size to plug the hole in the head. M12x1.5.
good to know. if it gives me leaks in the future, ill probably ditch it entirely.
The valve cover looks so good!
thanks dude!
Dan
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front rotors, pads, and brake lines on!
the fasteners on this car are so so un-rusty that the rotor set screw came off with an allen key! i feel spoiled.
Dan
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Thats a great feeling. I think all of us have some sort of memory of stripping, drilling, or breaking one.
Thanks for the good word on R3V today as well.
Are you planning on bedding the brakes in? To be honest I have never felt certain that ive done a bedding process correctly and I find im better off just driving the thing normally.
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i've had to drill at least 1 of the 4 every time i've done this job.
no prob.
yeah i usually do a truncated version of what they suggest. there's no where in the city to do all those 50-0-50-0 stops, so i just do a couple, then drive normal. my brain tells me it doesnt matter, i don't believe auto repair shops do that procedure before handing cars with new pads back to customers.
Dan
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The bedding in process i've always done has been whatever speed I can get to then slowing down 10 - 20 mph then speeding back up and repeat. I don't know that I've ever seen a bedding process that tells you to take it to zero or a stop. The thought process is you keep moving to keep air moving over the new brakes then do a brief cool down with no or light braking before coming to a full stop. This of course is only if it's possible to not stop.
Also, for the set screws, once I started using an impact driver to remove them I haven't had to drill a single one out. I've probably done hundreds with an impact driver with zero issues. It's worth the $20 investment!
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The bedding in process i've always done has been whatever speed I can get to then slowing down 10 - 20 mph then speeding back up and repeat. I don't know that I've ever seen a bedding process that tells you to take it to zero or a stop. The thought process is you keep moving to keep air moving over the new brakes then do a brief cool down with no or light braking before coming to a full stop. This of course is only if it's possible to not stop.
Also, for the set screws, once I started using an impact driver to remove them I haven't had to drill a single one out. I've probably done hundreds with an impact driver with zero issues. It's worth the $20 investment!
i use a 18v impact screw driver with a 3/8 drive adapter and it works well for most hardware that's not completely rust-f*d.
are you using a MANUAL impact driver?!
Dan
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Yes, the manual impact driver that you smack with a hammer. I'm telling you, it's magic if you know how to use it. When I teach brake classes I show everyone how to use them and they're always amazed! You don't have enough control over an electric or air impact and I found they strip the heads out to frequently with the inverted allen or phillips head screws that are used. They over power the bit and the head.
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I got rid of those long ago, no more headaches
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I got rid of those long ago, no more headaches
true dat. i used them to hold the rotor for assembly, then to the stock pile they went.
Dan
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short of a disaster, i'll be there. just have to swap rear brake parts, bleed the brakes, put coolant in her and she's all set.
Dan
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success on saturday, mostly.
rear brakes done. didnt do the subframe to chassis soft lines, they are impossible to get to without dropping the subframe. none of the how-to's mention this. :shrug
bled the brakes with a power bleeder. they are firm with the car off, but theres a lot of travel with the booster helping. they grab hard when stomping on it, though, so not sure if there is air still in the line, these pads just need to be bedded, or if this style pads just doesnt have much initial bite. doing a bedding procedure late tonight when the roads clear.
engine back together. started up, bled the coolant system. systems go!
oh wait, just kidding. one of the casting plugs on the oil filter housing sprung a leak. dripping fairly quickly. i could drain the oil, pull the alternator, pull the housing, replace the rubber o ring and all the associated gaskets, new filter...but i wont. I just JB welded the F*ck out of it.
it has no purpose, so sealed is sealed.
gold theme coming together.
new tires mounted and got the summer wheels on the car.
she just needs a wash and vaccum before saturday. woo hoo, its driving season!
Dan
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brakes 'bedded' and working great, no need for another bleed. my jb weld patch also held during the test. hopefully i will have a 'dry' engine this year instead of the mess from last.
to note: i now know why i couldnt make the abs kick on during the wet autocross. its because the abs may not be functioning lol
p.p.s. joe, we're going to have another epic shootout year in autox. my new tires are grippy compared to last years!
Dan
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