1991 325i m20 help, madison
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I could use the ICV but then won't I be missing if there's a leak from that a point forward through the airbox? Is there a better part in the system to blow into to capture everything? At the fuel pressure regulator hose? If so, should I blow from point 1 or 2 attached? Thanks, never done this before, should be fun.
Yeah, just using some old cigars. Gonna have to be sure not to inhale too much or I'll get a mad buzz. Wait, or maybe I should?
Andrew
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I could use the ICV but then won't I be missing if there's a leak from that a point forward through the airbox? Is there a better part in the system to blow into to capture everything? At the fuel pressure regulator hose? If so, should I blow from point 1 or 2 attached? Thanks, never done this before, should be fun.
Yeah, just using some old cigars. Gonna have to be sure not to inhale too much or I'll get a mad buzz. Wait, or maybe I should?
Andrew
The pressure drop happens across the ICV and throttle body plate so any leaks on the airbox side of those 2 things is not as much of an issue. It will only let a slight amount of air through that did not get metered by the air flow meter (flapper thing in the intake). The pressure on the airbox side of the throttle plate and ICV will be very close to atmospheric.
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well, i didn't do the vacuum test yet. Changed the fuel filter and went for a drive around the neighbor hood. While compression could be better I don't think it's really a major vacuum leak. Here's why. While driving it starts out running pretty good, strong acceleration, reasonably smooth. A little rough, but drive able. The problem gets REALLY bad after the car warms up. I'll try to attach a video. (video didn't work, ugh) You can't hear sound all that well, but the engine is about to cut out. Probably would if I let it keep going it sounds BAD. You can see the temp gauge flicker, mpg, etc. Again, only gets terrible after it warms up.
So, I think I can rule out bad plugs and wires cause it goes fine for a bit.
I noticed while jacking the car up to change the filter I have a bad gasket after my catalytic converter. There was A LOT of water/exhaust liquid dripping out. Not gas though, didn't smell. just vapor. Could mean nothing, could mean something, i don't know. Not sure how the problem only happening when up to operating temp might play into all that.
Thanks again for all your help. Sure would be nice to get her running for spring.
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idle is fine until it's warm. it starting surging real bad while driving. i limped it back to the garage, put in neutral and it would still surge badly. i shut it down then and came on here.
been doing lots of searching online. Does the fuel pressure regulator make any sense that it'd fail when engine is warm? I gotta find some westsiders that I can swap parts with.
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i think that's OK. nothing milky in oil. i've popped the cap and looked good when i did the valve cover gasket before changing the oil
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Surging when warm can be caused by the ecu coolant temp sensor. My e30 would surge once warmed up randomly until I cleaned the connector that plugs into it. It can be a misleading problem because the dashboard gauge is a separate sensor. It will cause a too rich condition because it thinks the engine is still cold. I would check this to rule it out. Do you have a multimeter?
Here is a detailed testing procedure. http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Blue_Plug
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This is very similar to what I have going on with my e30 except mine doesn't surge at idle when up to temp, it high idles instead.
As a side not when I was looking for sensors online shopping via ECS and BluntTech they both had the ecu and dash sensors listed as "water temp sensor". I'm replacing both just cause.
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I picked up an ECU coolant temp sensor cause it was $16, figured i'd just try that and I'm not out much if it isn't it. Probably on its way out anyways if I have the original. I'll get that in tomorrow and let you know. Badger game to watch tonight!
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Yes
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well, the ecu coolant temp didn't do anything. next guess is fuel pressure regulator i think unless someone else has another idea. Anyone know if I could take one off of a e28 5 series?
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Ran to the junk yard and got a fuel pump regulator used. It didn't work. Tried o2 sensor idea and no difference. I have no idea. Could a bad catalytic converter do something like this? Would that just suddenly go? I'm out of ideas for cheap parts.
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If disconnecting the 02 sensor made no difference in the surging then perhaps there is a problem with the O2 sensor. An O2 sensor on its way out would cause idle problems once the engine is warm.
I don't remember reading in the thread but are you throwing any CELs?
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i have above a 1/4 tank left. i had to fill it up on my way back from IL when i bought it end of Nov. I did start it throughout the winter and i did just yesterday throw some fuel injector cleaner in. Unfortunately it won't make it to a gas station to top her off:( Did the stomp test and didn't get any codes.
So, you think o2 is the next cheapest thing to try? no other way of testing that I assume?
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Cheap: Since the car won't make it to the gas station go to Wally world or where ever and pick up a 5 gallon plastic gas container and a bottle of HEET gas line dryer. The injector cleaner you added needs to get mixed in with the gas, so maybe adding some will help.
Cheap: 1/4 tank maybe your fuel pump pickup is clogged (rust flakes etc)? Pump is under the rear seat passenger side. Pull the pump and see if the screen/sock is clogged.
Cheap: metal elbows on the throttle body. Are these tight?
O2 sensor: not so cheap. There are ways to test (folks will weigh in here, or if you have an Bentley handy; maybe this http://www.verrill.com/car/idle/e30_o2test.shtml), but I replaced mine on both e30s since very high mileage and I had no idea when it was done last. Just a heads up that they were a pain to remove. A fouled O2 sensor could be the issue and would not necessarily show up in the stomp test/code read.
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