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  4. 1991 325i m20 help, madison

1991 325i m20 help, madison

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    cpandrewschmidt
    wrote on last edited by
    #22

    well, i didn't do the vacuum test yet.  Changed the fuel filter and went for a drive around the neighbor hood.  While compression could be better I don't think it's really a major vacuum leak.  Here's why.  While driving it starts out running pretty good, strong acceleration, reasonably smooth.  A little rough, but drive able.  The problem gets REALLY bad after the car warms up.  I'll try to attach a video. (video didn't work, ugh)  You can't hear sound all that well, but the engine is about to cut out.  Probably would if I let it keep going it sounds BAD.  You can see the temp gauge flicker, mpg, etc.  Again, only gets terrible after it warms up.  

    So, I think I can rule out bad plugs and wires cause it goes fine for a bit.  

    I noticed while jacking the car up to change the filter I have a bad gasket after my catalytic converter.  There was A LOT of water/exhaust liquid dripping out.  Not gas though, didn't smell. just vapor.  Could mean nothing, could mean something, i don't know.  Not sure how the problem only happening when up to operating temp might play into all that.  

    Thanks again for all your help.  Sure would be nice to get her running for spring.

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    • jc43089J
      jc43089J
      jc43089
      wrote on last edited by
      #23

      Interesting, does it idle low, high, or surging?  If you give it a little gas to bring the rpms up does it smooth out?

      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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        cpandrewschmidt
        wrote on last edited by
        #24

        idle is fine until it's warm.  it starting surging real bad while driving.  i limped it back to the garage, put in neutral and it would still surge badly.  i shut it down then and came on here.  

        been doing lots of searching online.  Does the fuel pressure regulator make any sense that it'd fail when engine is warm?  I gotta find some westsiders that I can swap parts with.

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          B C
          wrote on last edited by
          #25

          Have you considered the possibility of a bad head gasket? Is the coolant dirty or is the dipstick milky?

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            cpandrewschmidt
            wrote on last edited by
            #26

            i think that's OK.  nothing milky in oil.  i've popped the cap and looked good when i did the valve cover gasket before changing the oil

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            • jc43089J
              jc43089J
              jc43089
              wrote on last edited by
              #27

              Surging when warm can be caused by the ecu coolant temp sensor.  My e30 would surge once warmed up randomly until I cleaned the connector that plugs into it.  It can be a misleading problem because the dashboard gauge is a separate sensor.  It will cause a too rich condition because it thinks the engine is still cold.  I would check this to rule it out.  Do you have a multimeter?

              Here is a detailed testing procedure.  http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Blue_Plug

              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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              • YoungCRY
                YoungCRY
                YoungCR
                wrote on last edited by
                #28

                This is very similar to what I have going on with my e30 except mine doesn't surge at idle when up to temp, it high idles instead.

                As a side not when I was looking for sensors online shopping via ECS and BluntTech they both had the ecu and dash sensors listed as "water temp sensor". I'm replacing both just cause.

                Chris Young
                BMWCCA #458972
                1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                  cpandrewschmidt
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #29

                  I picked up an ECU coolant temp sensor cause it was $16, figured i'd just try that and I'm not out much if it isn't it.  Probably on its way out anyways if I have the original.  I'll get that in tomorrow and let you know.  Badger game to watch tonight!

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                  • YoungCRY
                    YoungCRY
                    YoungCR
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #30

                    Did the one you bought have two contacts on the connection?

                    Chris Young
                    BMWCCA #458972
                    1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                      cpandrewschmidt
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #31

                      Yes

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                        cpandrewschmidt
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #32

                        well, the ecu coolant temp didn't do anything.  next guess is fuel pressure regulator i think unless someone else has another idea.  Anyone know if I could take one off of a e28 5 series?

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                        • YoungCRY
                          YoungCRY
                          YoungCR
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #33

                          Compare the part numbers on realoem

                          Chris Young
                          BMWCCA #458972
                          1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                            Boris3
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #34

                            Just out of curiousity disconnect the O2 sensor and see if that makes a difference with the surging.

                            1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                              cpandrewschmidt
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #35

                              Ran to the junk yard and got a fuel pump regulator used. It didn't work. Tried o2 sensor idea and no difference. I have no idea. Could a bad catalytic converter do something like this? Would that just suddenly go? I'm out of ideas for cheap parts.

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                                Boris3
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #36

                                If disconnecting the 02 sensor made no difference in the surging then perhaps there is a problem with the O2 sensor. An O2 sensor on its way out would cause idle problems once the engine is warm.  

                                I don't remember reading in the thread but are you throwing any CELs?

                                1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                                  Boris3
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #37

                                  One more in the cheap fix column, have you put any gas in it since you bought it, and how long was it sitting before you bought it? You might want to throw in a bottle of HEET and some fresh gas, drive/run it for a while and see if that makes a difference.

                                  1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                                    cpandrewschmidt
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #38

                                    i have above a 1/4 tank left.  i had to fill it up on my way back from IL when i bought it end of Nov.  I did start it throughout the winter and i did just yesterday throw some fuel injector cleaner in.  Unfortunately it won't make it to a gas station to top her off:(  Did the stomp test and didn't get any codes.  

                                    So, you think o2 is the next cheapest thing to try?  no other way of testing that I assume?

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                                      Boris3
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #39

                                      Cheap: Since the car won't make it to the gas station go to Wally world or where ever and pick up a 5 gallon plastic gas container and a bottle of HEET gas line dryer. The injector cleaner you added needs to get mixed in with the gas, so maybe adding some will help.

                                      Cheap: 1/4 tank maybe your fuel pump pickup is clogged (rust flakes etc)?  Pump is under the rear seat passenger side. Pull the pump and see if the screen/sock is clogged.

                                      Cheap: metal elbows on the throttle body. Are these tight?

                                      O2 sensor: not so cheap. There are ways to test (folks will weigh in here, or if you have an Bentley handy; maybe this http://www.verrill.com/car/idle/e30_o2test.shtml), but I replaced mine on both e30s since very high mileage and I had no idea when it was done last. Just a heads up that they were a pain to remove. A fouled O2 sensor could be the issue and would not necessarily show up in the stomp test/code read.

                                      1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                                        cpandrewschmidt
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #40

                                        thanks Boris3.  I might just do the o2 sensor.  Car has 100k on it and i dont know when it was ever done.  I'd be surprised if the filter gets clogged as it take the car running for about 5 mins of running before it starts to bogg down.  If it got clogged do you think that would happen quicker?  I'll check it eitherway though.  Cant hurt!

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                                        • jc43089J
                                          jc43089J
                                          jc43089
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #41

                                          You haven't put gas in since last November? Get some fresh stuff asap. Try to find it without ethanol, ethanol deteriorates quickly and is not friendly to older cars. If the cat was plugged the vacuum would drop as you revved the engine higher. And typically idle will be ok but power will be poor to terrible when trying to drive.

                                          Sent from my potato phone

                                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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