Earl said:

You learned that m20's can't be trusted and it needs an m50 swap right? 

Ha, yes.  Maybe when this one dies.

I was going to meet John Thursday in Cottage Grove to look things over.  I wanted to make sure I could make it that whole way from the westside so I took the car out Wednesday night to my wife's Happy hour just to make sure it woudn't die.  It sputtered for about 2 mins then settled down.  I hit a detour on my way which made me have to go 70mph on 151.  Took me about 30 mins to get around town.  Car ran great, no issues.  Let it cool down while we ate for several hours.  Fired it back up on the way home.  No sputtering at all.  

So, Thursday I decide to try taking it to work along the Beltline.  Fired it up, no issues.  Drove around all day Thursday and took to work again today.  I'll probably jynx myself for typing this, knock on wood, but no issues.  Nothing different that i did.  So, no idea but I'll take it for now!  I'm not touching anything  Actually have a few drips i have to stop, but at least I feel I hopefully wont break down.  

Just wanted to say thanks again for everyone's help.  I definitely learned a lot about this engine through all this.  

Andrew

I've tried unplugging the AFM and the car just stalled and died so I'm not sure it can run without that plugged in, i don't think so.  

I'm going to try cleaning the AFM tonight and moving the track slightly on the electronic sensor like this guy does.  I opened it up and I definitely have two distinguishable spots of wear along the track.   

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=247831

I don't totally understand how the AFM works but this might be it.  The thing I don't understand is does that arm constantly move along the senor pad, or does it only adjust while pressing the throttle?  If it's the later I don't think that'd be my issue because the car sputters even when in idle.  However, if that arm is constantly moving based the other sensor in the air box it'd make sense for the car to sputter when it hits the dead spots along the track.  

Either way, I'll report back tonight!

414.eight52.five943

Out of ideas

I've got an old set off my 90 325i you can try if anyone is heading Madison way from New Berlin/Milwaukee.

I have some i wires that are used but worked fine.  I work with a guy from Mount Horeb, he could probably get them to you on Sunday maybe.

I'm thinking this still might go back to those Bavauto performance wires and plugs.  I did find one buried topic online of a person having issues with those wires.  

Is there anyone I could meet up with that has an m20 engine that would be willing to let me try their plugs / wires to rule that out?  

Thanks again for every ones help here.  Oh, I did also hook the vacuum test back up and I got 16-17 psi, so that was much improved from before and where it should be.

Looking online it doesn't look like my ECU resets like the e36.  I unplugged the battery last night and am letting it sit all day today.  Will try again tonight.  

As for the smoke test I just modeled it after these two posts.  I put a hole in a soda can and the can fits nicely into the intake hose.  Just tape it and seal it off good before putting smoke into the system.  Dont forget to open the throttle.  

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=292791&page=2&highlight=smoke

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=274418&highlight=smoke

If you could, share your homemade smoke machine pictures please?

While waiting for that to come in I popped the valve cover and adjusted the valves.  There wasn't 1 that I could get the feeler under, so they were pretty tight.  I adjusted those to the best of my ability.  Definitely a finky job.  I don't feel like I did as good as I could have, anyway...

Hose came in today and put it back on over lunch.  Fired it up.  Seemed to still do the same thing initially but settled down after a little bit.  DME adjusting itself??  I let it idle for 5 mins before working up the courage to take it out.  Drove it for 10 mins around the subdivision and a road up to 45 mph.  Knock on wood it performed well.  Going to put it through some more rigorous driving tonight.  

I did notice my idle dropped to the 800 ish rpm range, where before it was about 1100 rpm.  So, I think that's a good thing too.  Valves still seem to tick a bit, there's probably one or two that aren't quite right.

I'll double check everything again, i think you're right i'll just have to take things apart again.  I got the Bavauto performance wires.  I was told not to remove caps from the plugs for those wires.  The wires click onto the plugs so I think they're on there correct.  I have also tried it with the caps off and it didn't make a difference.  

Snap - that would be great, i'd love a second set of eyes.  I'm sure once I figure it out it'll be something stupid.  The car isn't my daily driver so it's just sitting in the garage right now until i can figure it out.  I can come home over lunch or am generally free after about 5:30pm.

-any hoses removed, reattached improperly when removing the valve cover, or opening the air box to replace the filter (the wire plug to the air box unconnected/ reconnected), metal elbows still tight on the throttle body after working on the air box,

-main accordion air hose to throttle body not cracked in the accordion seams (old hose could crack when opening the air box to replace the filter)

So it's something you did.

Basics:

-the plug wires are connected correctly to the proper holes on the distributor cap and to the proper cylinders.

-you replaced the rotor ; rotor was ok

-you removed the metal screw on pieces on the ends of the spark plugs

-You made sure timing was correct (nothing jumped a tooth when you were installing the belt, tensioner was changed)