Doormans e30 325e
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Busted out the Harbor Freight DA!!
Did a test panel on the hood.
Looked good so I started to go at the drivers side for a bit.
Don't know how well it's showing up in the pictures but in person it's nice!!
Yellow pad
Meg's ultimate compound
Speed 4
I may have to wet sand a bit on the leading edge.
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What is a harbour freight DA exactly? My e30's paint is definetly in need of some TLC.
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What is a harbour freight DA exactly? My e30's paint is definetly in need of some TLC.
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Some more detailing progress.
I only get a couple hours here and there to give her some love.
Passenger side
Clay bar
Compounded
Poilshed
Waxed
50/50 of the roof
Upper part (drivers side) untouched
Lower (passenger side)
Clay
Compound
Etcetera
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From the reading I have done, if you swap from the sheet metal carrier to the aluminum style you still need to put a bolt with some sealant in the 2 holes on the back of the transmission or it will leak out of them. The late ones are blind holes so a plug isn't necessary.
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This piece here
There are 2 of these for the sheetmetal shift carrier mount. Did you remove these for the alum. carrier? I have an early g260 that I am using in my car now. I havent looked too far into whether I need to remove these or not.
I stayed with the sheet metal carrier.
The bolts are 2 different lengths, keep that in mind.
I have also read they need to be reinstalled when changing to the aluminum carrier.
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Should be pretty straightforward. For the lollipops I lube with dishsoap to get them on the rear of the control arm. You are supposed to install quickly and set the car down so they "glue" themselves in place with no twisting at ride height. The old ones should pull off with a a 3 jaw puller.
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Drivers side out!!!
Took me about an hour and a half including jacking up the car, jack stands, both tires off etc.
daughter is napping and wife's at work. I may save the other side for when she gets home......she says she wants to help!!
Used my harbor freight ball joint tool for the tie rod and control arm joints. The 3' extension and 4 wacks with a hammer took care of the inner joint.
All joints are "mushy" and easily moveable by hand.
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Very cool, how do you plan on installing the control arms into the new bushings?
I'll use some threaded rod and some angle iron and a 4" square plate with a hole in it
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You are talking about the lollipops right? I mount the control arm to the car then with dishsoap they go right on, it is tight but can be done by hand. Remember that they need to go on and be lubricated until the cars weight is on the suspension.
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I clamped the lolipop in a vice and used dishsoap and water solution (probably close to 50/50 ratio) and then pushed the arm into it. I just eye-balled the angle, so it probably wasn't optimal. It wasn't easy or fun, so make sure you put them on the right way the first time...
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All new parts are on the car!!!
I'll get everything torqued up tomorrow.
A couple issues.
Broke a stud in the u bracket that the sway bar link bolts too. I'll grind it off tomorrow and replace the bolt.
Tie rod ends have approx 1" too much thread on them. I'll grab a nut from Lowes or Ace tomorrow and thread it on then cut the extra threads off. I didn't replace the inner part because it has no play and looks better quality then the ones from ECS. Boots are perfect as well.
A bit of dish soap and I pushed and twisted a bit to get the lollipops on the control arms.
What does everyone use to torque the inner control arm nuts?
Crows foot?
It's the one that's up above the subframe.
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