'08 535xi Coolant light on and running very rough & NOT DRIVEABLE
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I can't imagine it's the head gasket. I obviously just have very rudimentary knowledge about this but her car is impeccably taken care of and currently has 92K on it.
One more thing, I don't know if this is related but for the past 2 months there has been some "hiccuping" on acceleration after it has sat overnight. It's as if the car hasn't warmed up yet and you feel like you should step on the gas more, for lack of a better explanation.
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Could be alot of things, water pump failure might be throwing the light, but a bad fuel pump or leaking injector or bad coils could cause the misfire, agree with tsweers, need codes..
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Doubtful its a headgasket. Have never seen one go bad yet. Get the codes read and go from there.
lucky. I have personally had 3.
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lucky. I have personally had 3.
I think he meams on the n54
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I have yet to see a stock n54 blow one lolz
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I think he meams on the n54
That makes more sense. Thanks for the clarification.
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Well...we don't have the diagnosis yet : (
It was towed to the shop yesterday and the mechanic said he'd let my Mom know by then end of the day today. I take it a water pump job will be less costly than a head gasket? Are replacement water pumps usually refurbished and not new due to cost? Please educate. Thanks everyone!
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Have the intake valves ever been blasted?
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No they haven't. I take it that it's recommended? How much $$?
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Well...we don't have the diagnosis yet : (
It was towed to the shop yesterday and the mechanic said he'd let my Mom know by then end of the day today. I take it a water pump job will be less costly than a head gasket? Are replacement water pumps usually refurbished and not new due to cost? Please educate. Thanks everyone!
if its the head gasket then you all owe me a muffin.
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How 'bout a dozen.
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Update: Head gasket is fine. The cooling system is fine too.
Diagnosis is: fuel injectors and repair estimate is
$1400 from this mechanic and that's with a labor rate of only $75/hr. He said that's what has been causing the shuddering, which is mainly felt when the engine is cold.
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I still am confused about why the coolant light was on (no overheat). There wasn't any coolant on the ground or a leak. The level in the expansion tank was at the lower ball which is the minimum. Besides running very rough out of nowhere it would barely idle and was stalling. The mechanic said it started for him (naturally!) and it ran so he drove it around for about 8mi. So what does the coolant light have to do with the fuel injector problem, or doesn't it?
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what light came on?
this one?^ means low coolant
or
this one?^ means overheating
^(red color of this light means way overheated)
that could be a water pump on its way out.(all to common on the n5x motors..)
it is normal to top of a car every year or two...but it shouldn't need frequent fill ups on coolant.
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The coolant light and after it first came on I checked the level in the expansion tank (engine was cold-car had been in garage 24hrs prior). The bobber's top ball was not quite level with the top of the opening of the expansion tank (indicating that it was not quite at the minimum level that it should be). So I added 50/50 up to the max indicator (where the lower ball on the bobber is level with the top of the opening of the expansion tank opening). Then I started it and it was a rough cold start and everything was fine for a few days. I went to start it after it had been in the garage for 24hrs and was even more rough and no sooner than I was 40ft away from the garage the coolant light came on and it was barely idling and stalled. So I got it back to the driveway, which was difficult and it was barely idling. Since the engine was cold I checked the coolant level in the expansion tank and it was at the max. The coolant was still on. There was no visible leak on the garage floor or anywhere under the hood all around the expansion tank and hoses..etc.
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