'08 535xi Coolant light on and running very rough & NOT DRIVEABLE
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So it would need to be put up on a hoist to access/open the the drain plug in the bottom of the expansion tank to drain some coolant out? A head gasket replacement is a pricey repair, right? We (I) do have a reputable mechanic I was referred to by a former BMW tech of 15 yrs and he said he'd be fine with installing our own parts.
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Yes, if it is a head gasket it can be quite an involved repair.
Capturing some of the coolant should not require a lift, just a jack and jackstands. The ideal location to drain coolant from would be from the engine block drain plug (if that engine has one), otherwise a lower radiator hose is fine. By doing this there is a small risk that an air pocket will form in the cooling system that will need to be bled out, but in most cases the air bubble shouldnt be trapped.The mechanic you have a connection with may have the tools/willingness to do a cylinder leak-down test or some more official method for diagnosing the problem as a bad head gasket, but for someone like myself, this is a quick and easy way.
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I can't imagine it's the head gasket. I obviously just have very rudimentary knowledge about this but her car is impeccably taken care of and currently has 92K on it.
One more thing, I don't know if this is related but for the past 2 months there has been some "hiccuping" on acceleration after it has sat overnight. It's as if the car hasn't warmed up yet and you feel like you should step on the gas more, for lack of a better explanation.
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Could be alot of things, water pump failure might be throwing the light, but a bad fuel pump or leaking injector or bad coils could cause the misfire, agree with tsweers, need codes..
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Doubtful its a headgasket. Have never seen one go bad yet. Get the codes read and go from there.
lucky. I have personally had 3.
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lucky. I have personally had 3.
I think he meams on the n54
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I have yet to see a stock n54 blow one lolz
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I think he meams on the n54
That makes more sense. Thanks for the clarification.
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Well...we don't have the diagnosis yet : (
It was towed to the shop yesterday and the mechanic said he'd let my Mom know by then end of the day today. I take it a water pump job will be less costly than a head gasket? Are replacement water pumps usually refurbished and not new due to cost? Please educate. Thanks everyone!
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Have the intake valves ever been blasted?
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No they haven't. I take it that it's recommended? How much $$?
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Well...we don't have the diagnosis yet : (
It was towed to the shop yesterday and the mechanic said he'd let my Mom know by then end of the day today. I take it a water pump job will be less costly than a head gasket? Are replacement water pumps usually refurbished and not new due to cost? Please educate. Thanks everyone!
if its the head gasket then you all owe me a muffin.
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How 'bout a dozen.
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Update: Head gasket is fine. The cooling system is fine too.
Diagnosis is: fuel injectors and repair estimate is
$1400 from this mechanic and that's with a labor rate of only $75/hr. He said that's what has been causing the shuddering, which is mainly felt when the engine is cold.
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I still am confused about why the coolant light was on (no overheat). There wasn't any coolant on the ground or a leak. The level in the expansion tank was at the lower ball which is the minimum. Besides running very rough out of nowhere it would barely idle and was stalling. The mechanic said it started for him (naturally!) and it ran so he drove it around for about 8mi. So what does the coolant light have to do with the fuel injector problem, or doesn't it?
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