crappy e36
-
You might want to consider e46 control arms as an upgrade. From what I understand they will give you a little more at full lock.
-
You might want to consider e46 control arms as an upgrade. From what I understand they will give you a little more at full lock.
They give you added track width mainly I believe. This, plus an SLR half kit(or some rack spacers) will give you lots of lock. Don't just replace the stock arms.
Also, No need to up the rev limit with a stock motor. Keep it at 6800 or whatever, and don't be afraid the bang the hell out of it. 7k won't hurt a properly maintained m50..
sk8 or die
-
They give you added track width mainly I believe. This, plus an SLR half kit(or some rack spacers) will give you lots of lock. Don't just replace the stock arms.
Also, No need to up the rev limit with a stock motor. Keep it at 6800 or whatever, and don't be afraid the bang the hell out of it. 7k won't hurt a properly maintained m50..
What is an slr half kit?
-
The e46 arms give you mad tyte camber=P You do need e90 tie rods though to make up the added width. There is a lot you can do to get more lock in the front. There are tons of threads on driftworks and such from UK guys building e36 drift cars.
Well I am a sucker for camber, especially when my e34 pillowball mounts are maxed out at like 2.8 degrees:(
-
The e46 arms give you mad tyte camber=P You do need e90 tie rods though to make up the added width. There is a lot you can do to get more lock in the front. There are tons of threads on driftworks and such from UK guys building e36 drift cars.
Well I am a sucker for camber, especially when my e34 pillowball mounts are maxed out at like 2.8 degrees:(
With e46 arms you will probably put the camber adjustments max positive. Nearly.
sk8 or die
-
With e46 arms you will probably put the camber adjustments max positive. Nearly.
I dont have pillowball mounts on my e36 yet. Haha
-
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/161071-e30-e36-lock-increase-guide-my-try-photos.html
Some more info on the swap.
-
Soo I've noticed my rear tires toe in and my tires are wearing ridiculously fast.. anyone know why?
Given that this thread started with a question about your rear suspension, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your RTABs are shot.
-
Given that this thread started with a question about your rear suspension, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your RTABs are shot.
Why would that make the tires toe in? Wouldnt that force them back so they toe out?
-
Are they wearing inside or out?
-
The e36 naturally has a lot of toe in and premature outside tire wear is a common problem. If it's inside then it is for sure the rtab's. The rear wheels will toe out at speed with bad rtabs.
-
I have the UUC red poly RTABs, I don't remember how much they cost but not that much. Otherwise new OE with limiters (oversize washers that limit deflection) would probably be much better than old worn out ones.
How stiff are the ones you are running? For me, I need something very stiff, almost solid.
Are they wearing inside or out?
They are wearing almost evenly but the car is lowered about 2 or more inches and I also have 18x9.5" m3 rims on it and I can tell it has some camber already.
-
If you are lowered that much and don't have adjustable lower arms then the camber is probably pretty aggressive in back. When I put the poly RTABs in it was much more stable feeling in back, most noticeable in bumpy corners and similar situations. The rear toe is adjustable on e36s, the holes in the RTAB mounting plate are slotted to allow moving it from side to side. There is no eccentric to help you position them though, just have to hold it with a prybar, tighten, check it and repeat.
-
If you are lowered that much and don't have adjustable lower arms then the camber is probably pretty aggressive in back. When I put the poly RTABs in it was much more stable feeling in back, most noticeable in bumpy corners and similar situations. The rear toe is adjustable on e36s, the holes in the RTAB mounting plate are slotted to allow moving it from side to side. There is no eccentric to help you position them though, just have to hold it with a prybar, tighten, check it and repeat.
Do you track your car at all? I'm just worried that the poly rtabs won't last long when subjected to the abuses of drifting and all out track days. I just really want to bulletproof my e36 because on my e34 I've gone with cheaper/easier routes throughout the build and im constantly redoing things.
-
I haven't tracked it yet, just aggressive DD duty. They have been on for 20k ish and when I tore everything apart last winter they looked like new still, I would think that they will hold up better than the OE ones, that is one of the selling points, that they will last the lifetime of the car.
-
I was reading up on another forum and there was a guy saying that poly rtabs are a consumable when tracking an e36 regularly but he never said how long they last. If I can get a whole season out of them I'd be fine with that instead of the solid rtabs because the solid rtabs supposedly wear subframe bushings and whatnot out faster due to their lack of movement.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login