crappy e36
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Check over the boots on your coils too. If they have any small cracks or splits it can cause a misfire. You should also do a akoke test to find any vacuum leaks. I have a slight miss only at idle and need to smoke test my e34.
For fromt control arm bushings I would highly recommend the treehouse racing eyeball arms but if this is low budget, offset m3 mounts would be great. If this is a drift car, I would recommend poly rear subframe bushings. The rubber might still have too much give when throwing it sideways. You can get sets through AKG Motorsports, Bimmerworld, or Turner Motorsports. I always order all of my OEM parts through ECS Tuning. They always seem to have the lowest price to me and I have had excellent interaction with their customer service. Some people have had issues in the past but I have never had anything less than great service.
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The m3 bushings for the front control arms are an upgrade (more rubber, they are available with centered hole, and offset hole. I'm not sure if the offset to increase caster would help you or not.)
I don't know if the rears are different, I have UUC poly rear trailing arm bushings and they stiffened the rear up nicely, I did not lube them properly the first time and they squeaked fyi.
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Did it only stumble when cold? Coolant temp sensor issue?
It stumbles all the time, hot or cold, just around 2-4k rpms. Besides that it runs perfectly other than the burning bleach smell when I floor it.... Ha the cluster claims its at 44k for mileage, not sure if I believe it.
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You might want to consider e46 control arms as an upgrade. From what I understand they will give you a little more at full lock.
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You might want to consider e46 control arms as an upgrade. From what I understand they will give you a little more at full lock.
They give you added track width mainly I believe. This, plus an SLR half kit(or some rack spacers) will give you lots of lock. Don't just replace the stock arms.
Also, No need to up the rev limit with a stock motor. Keep it at 6800 or whatever, and don't be afraid the bang the hell out of it. 7k won't hurt a properly maintained m50..
sk8 or die
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They give you added track width mainly I believe. This, plus an SLR half kit(or some rack spacers) will give you lots of lock. Don't just replace the stock arms.
Also, No need to up the rev limit with a stock motor. Keep it at 6800 or whatever, and don't be afraid the bang the hell out of it. 7k won't hurt a properly maintained m50..
What is an slr half kit?
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The e46 arms give you mad tyte camber=P You do need e90 tie rods though to make up the added width. There is a lot you can do to get more lock in the front. There are tons of threads on driftworks and such from UK guys building e36 drift cars.
Well I am a sucker for camber, especially when my e34 pillowball mounts are maxed out at like 2.8 degrees:(
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The e46 arms give you mad tyte camber=P You do need e90 tie rods though to make up the added width. There is a lot you can do to get more lock in the front. There are tons of threads on driftworks and such from UK guys building e36 drift cars.
Well I am a sucker for camber, especially when my e34 pillowball mounts are maxed out at like 2.8 degrees:(
With e46 arms you will probably put the camber adjustments max positive. Nearly.
sk8 or die
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With e46 arms you will probably put the camber adjustments max positive. Nearly.
I dont have pillowball mounts on my e36 yet. Haha
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http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/161071-e30-e36-lock-increase-guide-my-try-photos.html
Some more info on the swap.
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Soo I've noticed my rear tires toe in and my tires are wearing ridiculously fast.. anyone know why?
Given that this thread started with a question about your rear suspension, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your RTABs are shot.
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Given that this thread started with a question about your rear suspension, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your RTABs are shot.
Why would that make the tires toe in? Wouldnt that force them back so they toe out?
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Are they wearing inside or out?
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The e36 naturally has a lot of toe in and premature outside tire wear is a common problem. If it's inside then it is for sure the rtab's. The rear wheels will toe out at speed with bad rtabs.
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I have the UUC red poly RTABs, I don't remember how much they cost but not that much. Otherwise new OE with limiters (oversize washers that limit deflection) would probably be much better than old worn out ones.
How stiff are the ones you are running? For me, I need something very stiff, almost solid.
Are they wearing inside or out?
They are wearing almost evenly but the car is lowered about 2 or more inches and I also have 18x9.5" m3 rims on it and I can tell it has some camber already.
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If you are lowered that much and don't have adjustable lower arms then the camber is probably pretty aggressive in back. When I put the poly RTABs in it was much more stable feeling in back, most noticeable in bumpy corners and similar situations. The rear toe is adjustable on e36s, the holes in the RTAB mounting plate are slotted to allow moving it from side to side. There is no eccentric to help you position them though, just have to hold it with a prybar, tighten, check it and repeat.
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