crappy e36
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Soo I've noticed my rear tires toe in and my tires are wearing ridiculously fast.. anyone know why?
Given that this thread started with a question about your rear suspension, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your RTABs are shot.
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Given that this thread started with a question about your rear suspension, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your RTABs are shot.
Why would that make the tires toe in? Wouldnt that force them back so they toe out?
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Are they wearing inside or out?
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The e36 naturally has a lot of toe in and premature outside tire wear is a common problem. If it's inside then it is for sure the rtab's. The rear wheels will toe out at speed with bad rtabs.
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I have the UUC red poly RTABs, I don't remember how much they cost but not that much. Otherwise new OE with limiters (oversize washers that limit deflection) would probably be much better than old worn out ones.
How stiff are the ones you are running? For me, I need something very stiff, almost solid.
Are they wearing inside or out?
They are wearing almost evenly but the car is lowered about 2 or more inches and I also have 18x9.5" m3 rims on it and I can tell it has some camber already.
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If you are lowered that much and don't have adjustable lower arms then the camber is probably pretty aggressive in back. When I put the poly RTABs in it was much more stable feeling in back, most noticeable in bumpy corners and similar situations. The rear toe is adjustable on e36s, the holes in the RTAB mounting plate are slotted to allow moving it from side to side. There is no eccentric to help you position them though, just have to hold it with a prybar, tighten, check it and repeat.
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If you are lowered that much and don't have adjustable lower arms then the camber is probably pretty aggressive in back. When I put the poly RTABs in it was much more stable feeling in back, most noticeable in bumpy corners and similar situations. The rear toe is adjustable on e36s, the holes in the RTAB mounting plate are slotted to allow moving it from side to side. There is no eccentric to help you position them though, just have to hold it with a prybar, tighten, check it and repeat.
Do you track your car at all? I'm just worried that the poly rtabs won't last long when subjected to the abuses of drifting and all out track days. I just really want to bulletproof my e36 because on my e34 I've gone with cheaper/easier routes throughout the build and im constantly redoing things.
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I haven't tracked it yet, just aggressive DD duty. They have been on for 20k ish and when I tore everything apart last winter they looked like new still, I would think that they will hold up better than the OE ones, that is one of the selling points, that they will last the lifetime of the car.
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I was reading up on another forum and there was a guy saying that poly rtabs are a consumable when tracking an e36 regularly but he never said how long they last. If I can get a whole season out of them I'd be fine with that instead of the solid rtabs because the solid rtabs supposedly wear subframe bushings and whatnot out faster due to their lack of movement.
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I can see how that would be somewhat true, the OE rubber bushings twist rather than how the poly bushings just rub/pivot on the center sleeve. That being said mine were still tight after 20k of street driving. I would think with proper lube they should last quite a while. They also are easy to install and don't need to be pressed in like OE.
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if your drifting an e36 the rear rubber trailing arm and diff mount are the two weakest things. the trailing arm bushings don't last me an oil change if i drive my car hard but they are easy to change. the urethane ones aren't that great either, i'd go for delrin, brass, or uniballs in that order. e46 arms are a near must for you that and a shimmed or welded diff. just my .02 cents
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if your drifting an e36 the rear rubber trailing arm and diff mount are the two weakest things. the trailing arm bushings don't last me an oil change if i drive my car hard but they are easy to change. the urethane ones aren't that great either, i'd go for delrin, brass, or uniballs in that order. e46 arms are a near must for you that and a shimmed or welded diff. just my .02 cents
Delrin it is. Love machining that stuff. E36/46 rtabs are the same right? My brother needs a set made bad..
sk8 or die
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if your drifting an e36 the rear rubber trailing arm and diff mount are the two weakest things. the trailing arm bushings don't last me an oil change if i drive my car hard but they are easy to change. the urethane ones aren't that great either, i'd go for delrin, brass, or uniballs in that order. e46 arms are a near must for you that and a shimmed or welded diff. just my .02 cents
Yeah I think im just going to get solid rtabs then. My car feels like its sliding on ice when I drive it down the street whether the tires are toed in or not. I didn't want to go broke on the rear end but it seems like there's no other way, not to mention the fact that I'm going to have to build a custom coilover setup for the rear. Ha
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There are "true" rear coilover set ups out there but they are ridiculously expensive. AST and Intrax are the two that come to mind. When you do it just make sure you have some kind of reinforcement on the strut tower beyond the normal strut tower plate. I looked into this before I went with my FK's and switching to the true rear coilover will increase the loads on the towers by quite a bit.
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Rowley, get machining! I could measure the ID of the trailing arm hole tonight, mine are in the basement with bushings out. I can also check the dimension of the ID of the sleeve that goes through the poly.
Honestly that would be amazing. I can build them in minutes, and we have delrin in stock. Brothers gonna be stoked about this haha.
sk8 or die
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There are "true" rear coilover set ups out there but they are ridiculously expensive. AST and Intrax are the two that come to mind. When you do it just make sure you have some kind of reinforcement on the strut tower beyond the normal strut tower plate. I looked into this before I went with my FK's and switching to the true rear coilover will increase the loads on the towers by quite a bit.
Yeah, ill have to reinforce the tower and the spindle but itll be worth it to have a real coilover setup.
And if you guys could machine solid rtabs that would be AMAZING.
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