TehRaydarlover's AWD lover
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Finished the diff write up, let me know if I F'd anything up haha.
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Look for thick putty knives with a sharpened edge. I have a stone to sharpen them occasionally and it also knocks off high spots where the sharp edge caught something. You will be surprised how Mich rust is underneath undercoating that looks intact. Mostly around seams. Be careful, mine hasn't been on the road in 2 years, but I'm also married with kids.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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Finished up another little side project. A rebuildable viscous coupling. First started with cutting a burnt out one open on a lathe.
The basic idea was to add an extension to the VC barrel for the addition of an o-ring groove and a snap ring groove. After taking a few measurements I mocked everything up in autocad. I rough machined the ring from CA40 420SS and welded it to the VC.
The cover that was removed from the VC was machined to the max ID of the stator plates. Then the VC extension was finish machined for a 0.001"-0.003" loose fit to the cover. Then the o-ring and snap rings were added.
And whala, a rebuildable viscous coupling
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Crazy good job Ray=) Did you get your secret santa gift by the way?
Thanks. I did! It sat in front of my door for a few weeks while I was gone for work but luckily my neighbors were decent haha. I'll post a picture tomorrow.
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How do you remove that massive internal snap ring? I dont see any holes for a tool to catch onto in the picture
There's a big chamfer on the left side (in the picture) that you can pry on with a screw driver to get the end out of the groove. It's actually pretty easy.
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I also tapped that hole for a 3/8 NPT plug, after removing the pressed ball bearing before I came up with the idea to make it rebuildable. Can also use it to fill the vc with the silicone fluid with the cover on. I made the custom o-ring yesterday so hopefully next week I can pressure test it and put it together for real.
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Being a magician helps too
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Yeah, shouldn't see much pressure at all, I just want to make sure my o-ring seals well. I had to use a 0.070" o-ring due to space restraints. Shouldn't be a problem but it'd be shitty if the silicone fluid leaked out right at the get go.
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So I'm trying to work out my brakes... and could use some advice
Things I'm trying to decide on:
- How far away the caliper should be from the wheel. Leave more room for different wheel options?
- How far can I move the caliper before the rotor hat and adapter bracket offset is enough to cause an undesirable torque during braking?
- Do I even need to be worried about this torque?The two calipers I have modeled are the Wilwood Forged SL6R (left) and the Wilwood Forged Narrow SL6R (right)
The narrow version is about $75 more a corner, not sure if its worth the price difference, but if the offsets and clearance are an issue the narrow version should be better.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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It seems like wilwood and brembo use aluminum, I'm guessing 6160, but I could make it out of 400ss.
Yes, the pads have the same surface area but are .65" thick vs .80". They have the same piston area also.
Wheels are 5X120 using 135i hubs up front and Z4 hubs in the rear
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Im assuming the calipers you are shopping are 2 or 4 piston and not a stock design sliding caliper. to me it seems the sliding caliper would create an undesirable moment on the aluminum adapter bracket but a piston on each side of the rotor will balance the forces.
If I were designing it, I would be allowing for 1/2" minimum clearance between spokes and calipers.
Are you going to run a square setup or staggered? Would a staggered setup make the transfer case grumpy?
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The fronts are 6 pot and the rears are 4 pot, I was thinking more of the caliper twisting on the mount. The more I offset it the larger the moment arm?
Okay, yeah I was trying to imagine how much deflection there would be in the wheel when cornering. I'm thinking it's probably quite a bit. Trying to decide whether to design the adapters to the wheels I have or try and give myself some more room for a higher offset wheel.
They will be staggered, 17x8.5 front, 17x9.5 rear. The t-case is perfectly fine as long as they are the same diameter. Just can't have wheels spinning at different rpms. Good way to cook the VC.
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So here is the T-case rebuild, I actually rebuild it back in January so the details are kind of foggy. If I missed something let me know! Thanks
Here is the list of parts I used:
27111224629 Qty(1) Transfer Case Breather Valve
27111224677 Qty(1) Transfer Case Gasket
07119981063 Qty(1) 8-BEARING-IX
27211224637 Qty(1) 8-NEEDLE CAGE
07119981047 Qty(1) Transfer Case Bearing
07119981047 Qty(1) Transfer Case Bearing
27211224636 Qty(1) Transfer Case Seal
27241224660 Qty(2) Front Transfer Case Output Seal
07119981724 Qty(2) 8-BEARING-IX
27211224632 Qty(1) Drive Shaft Seal
27211224634 Qty(1) Collar Nut
27241224662 Qty(1) Snap Ring
23711130502 Qty(1) Rubber Mount
07119963308 Qty(1) Gasket Ring
27111226467 Qty(1) Screw PlugA few of these items are NLA from BMW, such as some of the bearings, but you can still order them online from companies like Motion Industries.
You will also need a new or good used viscous coupling, see my rebuild a few pages back.
So first things first: Disassembly
I removed the rear output shaft nut, then used a large 3 jaw puller to pull off the output flange. There's a sealant used between the shaft and output flange that can make removal a little difficult.
Next your going to remove all of the 6mm socket head cap screws.
Separate the casing halves. There are two locating dowel pins in the casing. If the casing doesn't separate easily use flat face punch to tap out the dowel pins.
Now pretty much everything just slides apart. To avoid headaches during reassembly, be sure to take pictures and tag/bag all of the small shims, needle bearings, etc.
Use a pry bar to pull the input sprocket, chain, and front output assembly out of the casing.
There is a small snap ring on the input shaft that holds the input shaft in the casing that must be removed. If I remember correctly you have to remove the bearing first before you can reach it, mine came out with the input sprocket.
Its a good idea to measure and record the location of all of your shaft seals at this point.
To remove the VC from the rear output shaft you have to remove this bearing. I had to heat mine to get it to come off. DO NOT loose the shim under the bearing, you need this lol. The thickness is likely going to be different between different transfer cases. As I understand it, the shim basically makes up for any differences in lengths between the rotor assembly and the casing stop faces, similar to the shim found in the rear diff for the pinion depth.
Everything should be disassembled by now, remove all of the bearings left in the casing or on the shafts, also remove all of the old shaft seals, be careful not to scratch the receiving bore. (I left the larger needle bearing in the input sprocket installed, couldn't source a new one)
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Time for some inspection!
Take some time to clean all of the parts you will be reusing. Clean the casing inside and out, I pulled the breather and replaced it even.
If your doing this its pretty safe to say your VC probably looks like this, o-rings blown out and nasty crap all over the inside of the t-case. Time to rebuild or source a replacement.
Hopefully you and your POs greased your front driveshaft splines like you should be doing. If your splines don't look like this its time to try and source a replacement :[
Check your chain for any excessive amounts of wear. Of the three I had to choose from, they all looked the same :dontknow: maybe I'm just lucky, maybe they're all junk. Maybe someone else can comment on what a junk chain looks like.
Check all of the sprockets, planetary gears, splines, and bearing fits for wear and damage. Replace as necessary.
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