TehRaydarlover's AWD lover
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No, problem.
Darn, thanks for the heads up. I'll pick up some putty knives.
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Finished the diff write up, let me know if I F'd anything up haha.
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Look for thick putty knives with a sharpened edge. I have a stone to sharpen them occasionally and it also knocks off high spots where the sharp edge caught something. You will be surprised how Mich rust is underneath undercoating that looks intact. Mostly around seams. Be careful, mine hasn't been on the road in 2 years, but I'm also married with kids.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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Finished up another little side project. A rebuildable viscous coupling. First started with cutting a burnt out one open on a lathe.
The basic idea was to add an extension to the VC barrel for the addition of an o-ring groove and a snap ring groove. After taking a few measurements I mocked everything up in autocad. I rough machined the ring from CA40 420SS and welded it to the VC.
The cover that was removed from the VC was machined to the max ID of the stator plates. Then the VC extension was finish machined for a 0.001"-0.003" loose fit to the cover. Then the o-ring and snap rings were added.
And whala, a rebuildable viscous coupling
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Crazy good job Ray=) Did you get your secret santa gift by the way?
Thanks. I did! It sat in front of my door for a few weeks while I was gone for work but luckily my neighbors were decent haha. I'll post a picture tomorrow.
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How do you remove that massive internal snap ring? I dont see any holes for a tool to catch onto in the picture
There's a big chamfer on the left side (in the picture) that you can pry on with a screw driver to get the end out of the groove. It's actually pretty easy.
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I also tapped that hole for a 3/8 NPT plug, after removing the pressed ball bearing before I came up with the idea to make it rebuildable. Can also use it to fill the vc with the silicone fluid with the cover on. I made the custom o-ring yesterday so hopefully next week I can pressure test it and put it together for real.
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Being a magician helps too
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Yeah, shouldn't see much pressure at all, I just want to make sure my o-ring seals well. I had to use a 0.070" o-ring due to space restraints. Shouldn't be a problem but it'd be shitty if the silicone fluid leaked out right at the get go.
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So I'm trying to work out my brakes... and could use some advice
Things I'm trying to decide on:
- How far away the caliper should be from the wheel. Leave more room for different wheel options?
- How far can I move the caliper before the rotor hat and adapter bracket offset is enough to cause an undesirable torque during braking?
- Do I even need to be worried about this torque?The two calipers I have modeled are the Wilwood Forged SL6R (left) and the Wilwood Forged Narrow SL6R (right)
The narrow version is about $75 more a corner, not sure if its worth the price difference, but if the offsets and clearance are an issue the narrow version should be better.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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It seems like wilwood and brembo use aluminum, I'm guessing 6160, but I could make it out of 400ss.
Yes, the pads have the same surface area but are .65" thick vs .80". They have the same piston area also.
Wheels are 5X120 using 135i hubs up front and Z4 hubs in the rear
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Im assuming the calipers you are shopping are 2 or 4 piston and not a stock design sliding caliper. to me it seems the sliding caliper would create an undesirable moment on the aluminum adapter bracket but a piston on each side of the rotor will balance the forces.
If I were designing it, I would be allowing for 1/2" minimum clearance between spokes and calipers.
Are you going to run a square setup or staggered? Would a staggered setup make the transfer case grumpy?
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