1JZ E30 Vert Build Thread with Pastry filled wheels

[Jdesign]

LOL now, now, gents. I got teh uber rare DIODES on eBay.  $8 for all of those!! I only wanted 2 but why not buy 20 for the same price  Vatozone charges for 2?!  Any who they worked out great! I took a pic comparing the two, and then a few of them installed. Have a looksie...

Old bulb on the left, LED on the right. 

Here you can see how clear and bright it looks. 

I was a little upset that I messed up cutting out the odometer cut out a little, so I will be printing new ones. I also noticed that due to the location of the LEDs inside the cluster, that the red/orange "alpina style" stripe on the RPM face got washed out(as seen above). So when I print a new version, I will have to make the color a little less transparent.

If anyone has interest in me making you some gauge faces, let me know, as I am just experimenting right now, I can make you some really cheap.

[Jdesign]

So I haven't updated in a while, but I have been busy with a lot of other things besides my poor E30. Anyways I finally got around to dropping the rear subframe in order to Perform the following upgrades:

_Poly subframe bushings

_Install a 4:10 LSD

_Poly Sway bar bushings

_Reinforced sway bar mounts

_New sway bar links

_Rebuild the rear calipers

_New Brake lines

_Clean the shit out of everything and sandblast and paint the Parts that need it.

Bough this LSD From Snap! (THANKS!) It will need some paint but I am excited to get it in and do some burnouts.

I also sold my Nardi wheel,  and bought another one immediately so it would match the wood-grain of my e39 knob. I also bought a gold Nardi horn and a new adapter off of another member on here (sorry I forgot your screen name but THANKS!) So my wheel will be a little closer to my dash again.

[Jdesign]

I am going to try and add more pictures as I go along. I tend to be pretty bad a documenting what I do as I am doing it. On another note, Does anyone know where the studs for the rear subframe come out on the verts? The coupes and sedans are in the back seat, but mine seem to be inside the quarter panel? WTF?

referring to this:

[Earl]

They're behind the side panels on verts=)

[Jdesign]

Earl said:

They're behind the side panels on verts=)

RAD! Thanks earl, thats what I thought, I was just too lazy to remove the panels.

[KaiserRolls]

What diff did you take out of the car?

[Jdesign]

KaiserRolls said:

What diff did you take out of the car?

An open 3:73.

[Jdesign]

So I got the pins out, and took out all of the interior. I should have snapped a pic, but I will tonight. I cannot for the life of me remove the subframe. Pulling, twisting, and tugging like a vintage porno, the damn thing is stuck. I used a plethora of various tools too; Air chisel, hammer, bigger hammer, prybars of all shapes and sizes. I finally found a thread on R3V of a guy using a  custom bent 1/2" x 3' rod, sledge hammer, and a lagbolt that got his out. I will be attempting this tonight.

that thread is here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=136816

[nick.e46.330i.]

When I took mine out I didn't take out those studs. I jumped on the trailing arms to break it loose. On mine the aluminum part for the stock mount corroded and was stuck to the body.

[YoungCR]

A little heat wouldn't hurt either.

[B C]

I also had your same scenario with mine. i tapped the aluminum sleeve of the subframe mount, installed a screw, and did the hammer of death procedure as you are about to undertake.

I had my best success when gradually getting each side down a little at a time

[m42b32]

All this talk about everything getting stuck and breaking makes me reallllllly not looking forward to dropping my rear subframe....

[Earl]

I put a 5 foot two by four in between the body and subframe. I then proceeded to go side to side and work it down by jumping on it=)

[KaiserRolls]

What happened to said diff?

[ClassE]

I pulled on mine.... And it came out. Literally required almost no effort to break free once everything was unbolted.

Good luck - get it loose!!!

[DrLeadFoot]

Mine snapped off the top of the aluminum bushing and left it in the car. Had to drill and hammer it out.

[Jdesign]

Well I got it out. Used a 3 foot rod and a 5/8ths lag bolt. I had to bend the rod to get it in there, but after a few quick smacks, the casting snapped right where I drilled the holes. 
 

And after I got it out, I still had the other half of the casting stuck in the car. So I just repeated the process. Thread in lag bolt, insert rod from the top, HAMMER TIME.

Out it came.

[Jdesign]

The electric impact I use is so helpful. The torque of the electric motor really helped drive that lag bolt into the aluminum. 

Next I just need to toss all the hardware in the tumbler, replace all the bushings, and clean everything up and paint it! :sigh:

old diff is for sale BTW.. http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index.php?/topic/3579-e30-373-open-differential-for-sale/

here you can see how dried out the swing arm bushings are

This sucks too, the axle boots are cracked and about to tear from just looking at them. Anyone have suggestions on new axles? (Brand, where to buy, HP amount etc?) I figure I will need better ones once I swap the car anyways.

[jc43089]

Just replace the boots and repack the cv joints with grease. There is no need to replace the whole thing.

Sent from my potato phone

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

Just replace the boots and repack the cv joints with grease. There is no need to replace the whole thing. Sent from my potato phone

I might go that route for now to save some cash. I wont be seeing big HP numbers till next year anyways. I have seen a few guys that run stock M coupe Axles and they are pushing 600+.