1JZ E30 Vert Build Thread with Pastry filled wheels

[Jdesign]

That they are. Its a really awesome machine. I will share some designs with you guys once they are complete.

[Jdesign]

Finally got mine all printed. Now time to figure out the lighting. Here is a pic of the final print. 

[Jdesign]

Not much of an update, but I installed half of the gauges and the lumens from the stock bulbs was far too dim. I ordered some LED replacements to see if that will work, but if not I will have to find another means for lighting. I am trying to reduce spotting and the yellow / reddish hue from a standard bulb. I will post pics once everything is installed, so far here is what I ordered; 

[Earl]

I installed those in my cluster on the compact and they were excellent

[YoungCR]

Where did you buy the bulbs?

[B C]

CYoung said:

Where did you buy the bulbs?

Diodes Christopher.

Diodes.

[YoungCR]

[Jdesign]

LOL now, now, gents. I got teh uber rare DIODES on eBay.  $8 for all of those!! I only wanted 2 but why not buy 20 for the same price  Vatozone charges for 2?!  Any who they worked out great! I took a pic comparing the two, and then a few of them installed. Have a looksie...

Old bulb on the left, LED on the right. 

Here you can see how clear and bright it looks. 

I was a little upset that I messed up cutting out the odometer cut out a little, so I will be printing new ones. I also noticed that due to the location of the LEDs inside the cluster, that the red/orange "alpina style" stripe on the RPM face got washed out(as seen above). So when I print a new version, I will have to make the color a little less transparent.

If anyone has interest in me making you some gauge faces, let me know, as I am just experimenting right now, I can make you some really cheap.

[Jdesign]

So I haven't updated in a while, but I have been busy with a lot of other things besides my poor E30. Anyways I finally got around to dropping the rear subframe in order to Perform the following upgrades:

_Poly subframe bushings

_Install a 4:10 LSD

_Poly Sway bar bushings

_Reinforced sway bar mounts

_New sway bar links

_Rebuild the rear calipers

_New Brake lines

_Clean the shit out of everything and sandblast and paint the Parts that need it.

Bough this LSD From Snap! (THANKS!) It will need some paint but I am excited to get it in and do some burnouts.

I also sold my Nardi wheel,  and bought another one immediately so it would match the wood-grain of my e39 knob. I also bought a gold Nardi horn and a new adapter off of another member on here (sorry I forgot your screen name but THANKS!) So my wheel will be a little closer to my dash again.

[Jdesign]

I am going to try and add more pictures as I go along. I tend to be pretty bad a documenting what I do as I am doing it. On another note, Does anyone know where the studs for the rear subframe come out on the verts? The coupes and sedans are in the back seat, but mine seem to be inside the quarter panel? WTF?

referring to this:

[Earl]

They're behind the side panels on verts=)

[Jdesign]

Earl said:

They're behind the side panels on verts=)

RAD! Thanks earl, thats what I thought, I was just too lazy to remove the panels.

[KaiserRolls]

What diff did you take out of the car?

[Jdesign]

KaiserRolls said:

What diff did you take out of the car?

An open 3:73.

[Jdesign]

So I got the pins out, and took out all of the interior. I should have snapped a pic, but I will tonight. I cannot for the life of me remove the subframe. Pulling, twisting, and tugging like a vintage porno, the damn thing is stuck. I used a plethora of various tools too; Air chisel, hammer, bigger hammer, prybars of all shapes and sizes. I finally found a thread on R3V of a guy using a  custom bent 1/2" x 3' rod, sledge hammer, and a lagbolt that got his out. I will be attempting this tonight.

that thread is here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=136816

[nick.e46.330i.]

When I took mine out I didn't take out those studs. I jumped on the trailing arms to break it loose. On mine the aluminum part for the stock mount corroded and was stuck to the body.

[YoungCR]

A little heat wouldn't hurt either.

[B C]

I also had your same scenario with mine. i tapped the aluminum sleeve of the subframe mount, installed a screw, and did the hammer of death procedure as you are about to undertake.

I had my best success when gradually getting each side down a little at a time

[m42b32]

All this talk about everything getting stuck and breaking makes me reallllllly not looking forward to dropping my rear subframe....

[Earl]

I put a 5 foot two by four in between the body and subframe. I then proceeded to go side to side and work it down by jumping on it=)