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  4. ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

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  • ClassEC
    ClassEC
    ClassE
    wrote on last edited by
    #97

    Ramze46 said:

    Now all classe needs is a kegerator and he can chauffeur us around the car shows on bags of course and I bought a brand new van as well

    My wife will likely tail me down to Scooters again - I'll pack the stow-n-go full of B...... Soda!

    Last year we slept in the back of her Kia Sorrento, this year she's alittle too pregnant to sleep in a car/tent so we'll be heading home that night.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • ClassEC
      ClassEC
      ClassE
      wrote on last edited by
      #98

      Hover car.

      2BCC0E05-4A8F-477D-B2BB-6F0CFDA1CA73.jpg

      C4E0D82E-807F-4B47-A11C-E97EA4649680.jpg

      What are the 2 wires for in the drivers side front wheel well? Ones a ABS/brake sensor? The other doesn't appear to lead anywhere - it's a 2 wire shielded line that looks looped at the end?

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • jc43089J
        jc43089J
        jc43089
        wrote on last edited by
        #99

        The one that matches the passenger side is for ABS, the other should be for the brake pad wear sensor, there is only one per axle.

        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • ClassEC
          ClassEC
          ClassE
          wrote on last edited by
          #100

          I don't have a pickle fork to remove the ball joint and tie rod ends - any other way to get them out of the lower strut housing/hub?

          Got everything disconnected and unbolted up front - just need to separate ends and pull front suspension! Tomorrow night will hopefully be dropping the rear subframe!

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • jc43089J
            jc43089J
            jc43089
            wrote on last edited by
            #101

            Oreilly's rents out pickle forks and ball joint removers for free.  Just pay for it when you get it and get the full amount back when you return it.  That's about the only way to get them out.

            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • wasnt m3W
              wasnt m3W
              wasnt m3
              wrote on last edited by
              #102

              Pickle forks damage the ball joint boots very easily. Hit the ear on the hub that the ball joint goes through from the side with a BFH, should pop out.

              m3sig-1.jpg

              1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • jc43089J
                jc43089J
                jc43089
                wrote on last edited by
                #103

                ^ This, only use a pickle fork if you are not planning to reuse the joints.

                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • ClassEC
                  ClassEC
                  ClassE
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #104

                  I called it a night at that point last night. I'll have a go at it again tonight after work.

                  It's odd pulling this apart after working on VWs for so long - similar of course but not knowing the nut sizes off the top of my head and trying to "learn the car" makes it a slower process then I'm used to. Tonight is break the ball joint and tie tod ends loose and yank front suspension.... Then heading to rear.

                  Tracking info shows rims are scheduled to arrive Friday..... I've got a lot of work to do to get the front coils welded up and toe/camber adjustments welded in Saturday and everything re-installed to test fit fitment.

                  If Oshkosh area peeps are looking for something to do nights this week or Saturday afternoon I'd love the help!

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • B
                    B
                    B C
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #105

                    just on the topic of balljoint separators

                    they have these at harbor freight (or for rent at o'reilly)

                    OTC-6297.jpg

                    best tool for ball joint separation. 

                    If you run into any snags with the rear subframe dont hesitate to PM/call.

                    You should be able to manage, but it can be a little bit puzzling the first time if you dont "know the car"

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • ClassEC
                      ClassEC
                      ClassE
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #106

                      Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help. :P

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • EarlE
                        EarlE
                        Earl
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #107

                        ClassE said:

                        Thanks Snap - I may take you up on that tonight if needed! Earl and John already had their footie pajamas on last night so they weren't a lot of help. :P

                        hahahahaha. Any time before 8 feel free to call

                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • JdesignJ
                          JdesignJ
                          Jdesign
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #108

                          ClassE said:

                          $400 ish from Condor - quality seems great. They should be in early next week - I'll report back once they're in!

                          Awesome, let us know!

                          SumBunny.jpg

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                          0
                          • ClassEC
                            ClassEC
                            ClassE
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #109

                            This is the "loose wire" I found in the drivers well:

                            22BB7137-6E3F-4524-B87E-45D3AD59CBC7.jpg

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • jc43089J
                              jc43089J
                              jc43089
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #110

                              Yep brake pad wear sensor, that thing at the end clips into the little notch in the pad.  That one is probably junk, they need replacement when putting in new pads.

                              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • wasnt m3W
                                wasnt m3W
                                wasnt m3
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #111

                                The sensor only needs to be replaced if it is worn through. As the pad gets thin, the sensor wears through, breaking the wire running through it, illuminating the light. Yours is most definitely junk by the looks of it.

                                m3sig-1.jpg

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • EarlE
                                  EarlE
                                  Earl
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #112

                                  Remove the wear sensors and pop the bulb out of the dash=) Save big money!

                                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  2
                                  • wasnt m3W
                                    wasnt m3W
                                    wasnt m3
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #113

                                    Or just connect the two wires...

                                    m3sig-1.jpg

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • EarlE
                                      EarlE
                                      Earl
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #114

                                      Oh yeah....you told me to do that too. Looks like I found something to do Saturday=)

                                      museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • ClassEC
                                        ClassEC
                                        ClassE
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #115

                                        Fronts are out! Now on to the rear...

                                        37A4B690-4FA8-42FB-94BB-183FB13C0BA2.jpg

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • ClassEC
                                          ClassEC
                                          ClassE
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #116

                                          My son Bennett thought he'd "help".

                                          A4532846-5D70-4D4A-90DE-F1B38AAA0DC5.jpg

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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